The Cowlitz Farm
By Curt Cunningham

The story of the Cowlitz Farm, begins with Simon Plamondon. Plamondon first arrived at Washougal on the Columbia River in 1813 with his brother Joseph. They began their new lives in the wilderness of the Pacific Northwest as "free-trappers" before they were hired by the Canadian owned North West Company at Fort Astoria in 1816. In 1821, the Hudson's Bay Company (HBC) merged with... or rather absorbed the North West Company. Plamondon was now an HBC employee, who would continue to work for the company for over a decade as a trapper and voyageur.

Plamondon made his first trip up the Cowlitz River to the Cowlitz Prairie in 1818 while on a mission to explore this vast unknown region. After a 2 day canoe trip up the river, they reached the Cowlitz landing. This canoe landing had been used by the Cowlitz tribe for longer than anyone could remember. After Plamondon and his party set foot on the river bank, they were immediately captured. Their Cowlitz captors brought the prisoners to Chief, Scanewa, the leader of the Lower Cowlitz tribe to learn their fate. The Chief then decided to make them his personal slaves.

Now that were the slaves of Scanewa, and fearing they would never be allowed to return home again, they began to plead with the Chief, to set them free. They said if he released them they would return later with valuable items that they would trade for furs. The chief agreed to the deal, and as insurance, he ordered 2 warriors to accompany the trappers as they traveled back to their post. When they reached Fort Astoria, Plamondon made sure their "chaperones" were treated with the utmost courtesy.

Plamondon kept his promise and returned with; tobacco, knives, clothes and blankets, which he presented to Scanewa. In time, Plamondon was able to gain the trust of the chief, and was asked to stay and marry one of his daughters. In 1821, Plamondon was married to Thas-e-muth by her father Chief Scanewa in an elaborate Cowlitz Sun Dance ceremony. The chief then assigned 30 young men to assist Plamondon, and soon he became a prominent member of the tribe. Chief Scanewa died a few years later in 1826, and Plamondon inherited much of his property. It was through Plamondon's influence that the HBC was able to gain a foothold on the prairie.

By the late 1830's, many of the HBC trappers, who began service for the company as teenagers in the 1820's, had fulfilled their contracts and were now ready to retire and begin life as farmers. Many of these new retirees traveled south across the Columbia and settled on the French Prairie, which is located about 5 miles southwest of Champoeg, Oregon.

Plamondon retired from the HBC in 1837 and was persuaded by his ex-boss HBC Governor Dr. John McLoughlin to remain on the Cowlitz Prairie and start a farm for himself. McLoughlin was trying to get as many retired employees to settle north of the Columbia River and establish colonies in hopes that someday the land north of the river would become British Territory. Plamondon and another retired employee by the name of Faincant, began farms on the western edge of the prairie, about 2 miles northeast of the Cowlitz Landing. Not long after, retired HBC employees; John Todd and Antoine Gobar arrived on the prairie to start farms. From 1838 to 1849, the Cowlitz Landing was known as "Plamondon's Landing."

Other retired trappers who settled north of the river in 1838 were; Oliver Bouchard, who started a farm on La Camas Prairie, which is located about 2 miles north of the Cowlitz Landing; Joseph St. Germain started a farm on the Jackson Prairie and in the Newaukum Valley about 10 north of the landing; Louis LaDu started farming on LaDu Prairie, which is now called West Longview; and Pierre Charles started farming on the Boistfort Prairie, located about 9 miles southwest of Chehalis.

These new settlers were French-Canadian and almost all were devoted Catholics. None of these men had taken Mass for a long time and shortly after settling in their new abodes, they began to want a religious presence in their new home. The first Catholic Mass conducted north of the Columbia River was held on the Cowlitz Prairie in Simon Plamondon's cabin on December 16, 1838. This is when the missionaries arrived on the Cowlitz. Rev. Francois Norbert Blanchet, Rev. Modeste Demers, and August Rochon had traveled across the continent to the prairie where they planned to build a church. This church would be located between the Plamondon claim and the future Cowlitz Farms. St. Francis Xavier Mission, as it was officially named, became known as the Cowlitz Mission.

One of the first post offices north of the Columbia River was established at the Cowlitz settlement in 1838. The mail was brought up the Columbia and Cowlitz rivers from Fort Vancouver to the Landing in canoes. The postmaster would then take it from the Landing up the hill to the settlement. The Cowlitz Prairie was an isolated place and the mail was the only way for the residents to hear of any news from the outside world.

The mail came in by sailing ships that would have to sail around South America, which took almost a year. Mail also came in by the annual brigades that took almost as long to cross the continent. So any mail a person received would be a least a year old. Years later the mail would come to the prairie about once every three months. Though the post office was not a very busy place most of the time, it would become the center of the community when the mail arrived, and it was quite an event.

The post office would then be established at the mission, and for the next 65 years of it's existence, the Cowlitz Post Office had only 3 postmasters. For the first 40 years. L. L. Dubeau was the postmaster, who held the office merely as an accommodation to his friends, and the scattered population in the Cowlitz Valley. The position of postmaster hardly paid enough for his trouble. Dubeau retired in 1881, and Horace Pinto became the second postmaster. Pinto was the postmaster a short 10 months when Abel P. Henroit took over and held the position for the next 24 years, until the post office was discontinued on February 1, 1906.

By the late 1830's, the HBC was looking for better ways to feed the trappers instead of shipping food in from overseas. Certain stockholders of the company disliked the idea of them going into the farming business. To pacify these individuals, the company separated the farming business from the fur trade, and in 1838 organized a subsidiary firm called the Puget Sound Agricultural Company (PSAC), for the sole purpose of conducting the farming and livestock operations. This new division, would supply all of the HBC forts which fresh food and produce. They would also sell to the Hawaiian's and to the Russians, who had a settlement at Sitka. This new company officially opened for business on December 23, 1840. McLoughlin remained in charge of both the HBC and PSAC and the only change would be in the bookkeeping.

The PSAC took over all of the HBC farms at Fort Vancouver and Fort Nisqually, and then expanded their operations with a large farm on the Cowlitz Prairie east of Plamondon's place. This new PSAC property became known as the Cowlitz Farm. At it’s peak, the farming land of the PSAC had encompassed 4,000 acres on the Cowlitz Prairie, plus additional farms at Fort Walla Walla, Fort Vancouver, Lake River and a cattle ranch on the Lewis River bottoms near Woodland. They also bought grain from Marcel Bernier, who now had a farm in the Newaukum Valley. It is also said that the PSAC purchased grain from L. M. Collins who had a small farm near Lake Washington in King County near Renton.

In 1841, the HBC, had all their stocks of cattle, sheep, horses, etc., transferred, to the PSAC books. About 5,000 additional sheep were purchased in California by permission of the Mexican government, of which 3,000 were driven up overland and 2,000 were sent up by sailing vessels. Further herds of cattle were driven west over the Cascade Mountains from their posts at Okanogan, Colville and Walla Walla. Other sheep and hogs of a fine breed were also brought in on sailing ships from England.

In 1841, Charles Forrest became the superintendent of the Cowlitz Farm. Also that year, 75 French-Canadian families migrated from the Red River District near Winnipeg, Canada and were to settle near Fort Nisqually. These settlers were promised land and some livestock to get their farms started. After their arrival from an extremely dangerous journey halfway across Canada at their own expense, the company would not honor their agreement.

As a consolation, Fort Nisqually Chief Factor Dr. William Fraser Tolmie, told the tired and now angry immigrants that they could settle on land a few miles northeast of the fort near American Lake or they could go to south to the Cowlitz Prairie, where the company would help them out a little bit, though nothing like what they were promised. The weary travelers were surprised that the company would renege on their promise. Only 2 or 3 families took up the meager offer to settle near Fort Nisqually. A few other families of the party settled on the Cowlitz Prairie near Plamondon. The remainder of the forlorn settlers decided to travel south to the Willamette Valley, and they received no further assistance from the company. 

The Cowlitz Settlement near the landing in 1841, consisted of retired trappers and the few Red River settlers, along with the PSAC employees who were living near the company farms. Marcel Bernier and his father Julian, who were originally from the Red River settlement, had remained on the Cowlitz Prairie a short time, before moving north to the Newaukum Valley and began to grow wheat, which they sold to the PSAC.

The Wilkes Expedition Visits the Cowlitz Farm

Naval officer and explorer Lt. Charles Wilkes during the Summer of 1841 landed at Fort Nisqually on the Puget Sound after failing to sail up the Columbia River. From Nisqually Wilkes traveled south and visited the Cowlitz Farm while on his way to Fort Vancouver. The following is his description of the Cowlitz Farms taken from his journal;

"The morning proved beautiful, and one of the finest days succeeded that I ever remember to have seen. Our route lay through alternate woods and prairies, the former composed of large pines and cedars. Several considerable streams of water were passed, whose banks were not so high as those before met with; the latter covered with strawberries, so tempting as to induce us to dismount and feast upon them, and many plants that excited a feeling of interest, and reminded us of home." 

"Among the number was the red honeysuckle, which was in full bloom. After passing extensive camas plains, we reached the Company's farm on the Cowlitz, which occupies an extensive prairie on the banks of that river. They have here six or seven hundred acres enclosed, and under cultivation, with several large granaries, a large farm-house, and numerous out-buildings to accommodate the dairy, workmen, cattle, etc." 

"The grounds appear well prepared, and were covered with a luxuriant crop of wheat. At the farther end of the prairie was to be seen a settlement, with its orchards, &c., and between the trees, the chapel and parsonage of the Catholic Mission gave an air of civilization to the whole. The degree of progress resembled that of a settlement of several years' standing in our Western States, with the exception, however, of the remains of the conquered forest."

"Here the ground is ready for the plough, and nature seems as it were to invite the husbandman to his labors. We were kindly received by Mr. Charles Forrest, the superintendent, who quickly made arrangements for canoes to carry us down the Cowlitz and Columbia rivers to Astoria, or Fort George. He also provided us with an excellent repast, and pressed us to remain overnight, which we would gladly have done, had I not found that it would be impossible for us to reach Astoria the next day if we did so." 

"At this farm the Company has a large dairy, and are about erecting a saw and grist mill. The superintendent's dwelling is large, and built of well-hewn logs; with the workmen's houses, &c., it forms quite a village. Large numbers of cattle were being brought in for the night, which is a very necessary precaution in Oregon, in consequence of the numerous wolves that are prowling about. In some places it becomes necessary for the keeper to protect his beasts even in the daytime." 

"The cattle, at times, suffer from drought, in which case the Indians are sent across the river to cut fodder for them, in order to avoid sending the cattle to the camas plains, where they would be subject to the loss of all their young. The farm at the Cowlitz has no sort of defenses about it, proving, as far as the Indians are concerned, that there is no danger of being molested, as their numbers here are too small to enable them to attempt any aggression, and their dependence on the Company, for both food and clothing, too complete to allow them to quarrel, except among themselves; and of such disputes the agent of the Company takes no sort of notice." 

"The Indians belong to the Klickitat tribe, though they have obtained the general name of the Cowlitz Indians. In a few years they will have passed away, and even now, I was informed, there are but three Indian women remaining in the tribe. The sickness that had attacked them of late has made sad ravages; for only a few years since they numbered upwards of a hundred, while they are now said to be less than thirty."

"The quantity of land actually under cultivation here is six hundred acres, most of which is in wheat. Mr. Forrest told me that the first year it had produced ten bushels per acre, but the present one it was thought the yield would be double. Around the superintendent's house is a kitchen-garden, in which all the usual horticultural plants of the United States were growing luxuriantly."

"The climate was thought to be particularly well adapted to them. Mr. Forrest informed me that the weather was never actually cold, nor is the winter long. Snows seldom last more than a day or two; fires, however, are necessary during most months of the year. The housing of cattle is resorted to partially; but little or no provision is made for their winter sustenance, as the grass is fit for food the whole year round." 

"The geographical situation of the Cowlitz Farm is in latitude 46° 30' N., longitude 123° W. The guide that Mr. Forrest had sent for was one Simon Plamondon, whom I engaged to carry us to Astoria. He proved to have been the coxswain of General Cass' canoe, when on his trip to the lakes in the Northwest Territory; and a more useful person I have seldom met with, or one that could be so well depended on."

"He had been for several years in this territory, having left the company's service, married an Indian wife, and was now living on a farm of about fifty acres, at the Cowlitz, independent and contented. I have seldom seen so pretty a woman as his wife, or a more cheerful and good housewife; before her marriage she was the belle of the country, and celebrated for her feats of horsemanship." 

"Plamondon engaged several of the young Indians to accompany him, and with two canoes we were all accommodated. The price for each Indian was to be a check shirt. During our short stay at Cowlitz, several Indian women brought in pieces of buckskin for sale, which they deem a necessary part of the equipment of a traveler. From them I learned the manner in which they prepare it, which is as follows." 

"Immediately after the animal is killed, the skin, after having all the hair scraped off, is stretched tight on a frame; it is there left until it becomes as dry as parchment, when it is rubbed over with the brains of the animal, which impart oil to it and it is then steeped in warm water, after which it is dried in the smoke, two women stretching it all the time it is drying; it is then again wet and wound tightly round a tree, from which it is again taken, smoked, and drawn by women as before; when nearly dry, it is rubbed with the hands as in washing, until it is soft and pliable; and then it is ready for use."

"Mr. Forrest stated to me that he had put a suit on, twenty-four hours after the animal had been running in the forest. I am well satisfied that no kind of apparel is so well suited as this to the life of an Indian or trapper, and all who travel in a wild country should be provided with such a dress. About a mile from the farmhouse, we descended a steep bank, two hundred feet high, to the river, where we found our canoes waiting for us."

"The Cowlitz was here about two hundred yards wide, and very rapid. Our company, or rather crew, consisted of nine young Indians. We were soon seated and gliding down the stream, while each boatman exerted his fullest strength to send us onwards. Just before sunset, when we thought we had made nine miles, we landed and pitched our tents on a small island in the river. The island was covered with driftwood, which soon enabled us to make a good fire, which the temperature rendered quite acceptable." 

"When our supper was prepared, we found that our Indians had come away destitute of any supply whatsoever, and that it was necessary to provide for them. This I have generally found to be the case, not only with these Indians, but with the natives of Polynesia; both require looking after before going on a journey, and will seldom burden themselves with food."

The Cowlitz Farm in the 1840's

After the establishment of the Puget Sound Agricultural Company in 1838, the location of Fort Nisqually proved to be inadequate. In the fall of 1843 John McLoughlin ordered Dr. William Fraser Tolmie to move the fort one mile inland to a new location near Sequalitchew creek. This was at the edge of the Nisqually prairie. The construction would take almost 5 years to complete. During the construction of the new fort, the PSAC livestock would be dispersed eastward were sites for large sheep parks and cattle stations were selected.

In 1846, there were 1,500 hundred acres under cultivation at the Cowlitz Farm, with 11 barns, about 1,000 head of cattle, 2,000 sheep, 200 horses, and 100 hogs. The company started to build a sawmill, but it burned down before it was finished. In July of 1847 the first set of bricks was fired on the farm of Simon Plamondon with the help of Americans Samuel Hancock, and Antonio B. Rabbeson. 

In 1847, Charles Forrest retired and George R. Roberts took over as superintendent of the Cowlitz Farms. Roberts would be succeeded by, H. N. Peers, and Peers would be succeeded, by William Sinclair, who was the last superintendent of the Cowlitz Farms. 

On March 23, 1847, the citizens at the Cowlitz settlement raised the American flag for the first time north of the Columbia River. The flag was sewn by the women of the settlement. Washington Hall of Vancouver gave the address, after which, the following resolutions were adopted by a committee of; Simon Plamondon, M. Clotnoire, P. St. Germain, and A. C. R. Shaw. "It was resolved that; as we have been permitted by divine providence to fling to the breeze the star spangled banner of our splendid country, we will rejoice under its folds and protect it from every harm, so long as we live. Also be it resolved; that, we hail with joyful acclamations the approaching opportunity of doing anything the United States may require of us to do, to become good citizens."

The End of Days for the Cowlitz Farm

By 1849, many PSAC and HBC employees began to retire, and many began to squat on the company's land. The first to do this was; E. L. Finch, J. H. Pierson, William Lemon, George Holsapple, Jackson Barton and a few others. These retired employees all claimed their land under the donation land act of 1850. You did not actually have to be an American Citizen to make a claim but only to have intention to become a citizen in the near future. Afterwards they, were all given notices of trespass by the PSAC.

None of these squatters, as the company saw them, never took the warnings seriously and remained on their farms. They then began to improve their land by using the PSAC's fencing and anything else they could take. The company was powerless to stop them, and would not bother them. The main reason for the notice was so the company could document the size of their claim when it came time to sell it to the U. S. Government. Simon Plamondon, who was not a squatter, as he did not live on company land, filed for his claim under the Donation Land Act for 640 acres on January 6, 1865.

The first Americans to settle on the Cowlitz Prairie was; James Galloway, Lemuel Whittaker, James Morgan and J. B. Broshear. These new arrivals took up even more of the land held by the PSAC. PSAC superintendent George Roberts retired from the company in the 1850's, and took a 160 acre claim. The Cowlitz Farm would continue to operate with this reduced acreage until about 1853, when the influx of American settlers became so great that they virtually took possession of the remaining land including all the improvements, thus crowding out the PSAC altogether. 

Dr. William Fraser Tolmie, Chief Trader of Fort Nisqually was in charge of the PSAC from 1843 to 1859, when he moved to Victoria and was made a member of the board of managers of the Hudson's Bay Company. After Tolmie moved to Victoria, the affairs of the PSAC was left in the hands of company clerk Edward Huggins, and he remained in charge until the PSAC lands were sold. The company then sold their lands to the U. S. Government in 1869 for $200,000. After the PSAC was bought out, Edward Huggins became an American citizen, and claimed the land where Fort Nisqually once stood, while the Cowlitz Farms faded into the annals of history.