The Dalles to the Deschutes River
By Curt Cunningham

The Columbia River Highway (CRH) between The Dalles and the Deschutes river is now mostly underwater or under the freeway. About 6 miles of this section of the highway utilized the old portage railway which took people and cargo around Celilo Falls. Also a section of about 2 miles, the highway used the old O. W. R. & N. grade. The Dalles dam which was constructed in 1952 and completed in 1957 raised the level of the river which now covers the old highway between the dam and Brown's island. The dam has also covered the old steamboat canal and locks at Celilo as well as the Celilo falls which had been a popular fishing ground for the Indians for thousands of years. From Brown's island to the Deschutes river the old highway is mostly under the freeway.

There are just a few places where the old highway can still be found. There was also one tunnel in this section which was called the Deschutes tunnel built in 1921 and was east of Celilo. In later years the cliffs over this tunnel were blasted out and the tunnel would be no more. This was probably done to widen the roadway after the dam was completed. Another interesting place on the section was called Cape Horn, now known as Applegate Point. the name change was because of the confusion it caused with Cape Horn on the Washington side opposite Crown Point.

The Old Wagon Road

Before this section of the highway was completed in 1921, travelers had to use the old wagon road which is now called Fairbanks Road and Moody Road. In the 1910's this was known as the "Bench route." To cross the Deschutes river there was an old rickety toll bridge called Miller's bridge, which was located a little over a quarter mile upstream from the Highway 206 bridge. After the dam was completed, and from the old Deschutes tunnel which was located about a mile downstream from the Deschutes river, to where Highway 206 turns south through Fulton Canyon, a new highway was built because the old CRH was now underwater and under the new freeway.

The Old Oregon Trail crossed the Deschutes river where the freeway bridge is today. After the settlers finished crossing the river with the help of Indians who camped there and charged a fee for helping them cross, they had to climb the hill on the west side, and then over the mountain to Fairbanks. Between Fairbanks and Petersburg the old wagon road follows the Oregon Trail. You can still see the ruts in the ground on the hill above the park.

The old wagon road from Petersburg to The Dalles followed Columbia Dr. to the Old Dufur Road and then down the Brewery Grade into town. From 1858 to 1862 about a half a mile downstream from the mouth of the Deschutes river was a loading facility for cargo which was brought over the old wagon road which was originally called The Dalles Portage Road. At this loading facility a small town sprang which became known as Deschutesville. The Columbia River Highway used this old wagon road until the new section was completed in 1921.

The River Route or the Bench Route

In November of 1913 discussion ensued about the proposed route of the CRH in Wasco county which was to be built with $200,000 that the county was bonded for. There was considerable difference of opinion among the citizens of that county, as to how this money should be spent. Some thought that Wasco county should put this new road along the Columbia river to serve as a trunk line, from which other roads could be put in as feeders. In this way they could capitalize on the work which was being done by the U.S. government on the Celilo canal and locks which was completed in 1915.

By constructing the river route they would be able to attract a constant stream of tourist travel coming up from Portland as well as the tourists from elsewhere who would be coming through Portland, and who would want to make the Columbia river trip. Wasco county, without any expense to itself for the building of the government work which had cost millions, and without paying any taxes on it, could capitalize on it by the construction of its link in the extension of the highway up the Columbia and would realize a profit from the money spent by tourists who would make the trip.

Not only that, but tourists could come down from Seattle, Tacoma and other points on the coast to Portland and drive up the Columbia River Highway, and many would make the trip through Central Oregon and into California on this road, on account of the easier grades and the fact that the roads would be good all the year around. The other opinion held was that in place of completing Wasco county's part of the Columbia River Highway they should spend their $200,000, for which the county, was bonded, to put roads over the hills and back into the farming country. It is unknown exactly how this money was spent but it was not used for the CRH that year.

Three years later in the spring of 1916 the large appropriations which were made available for state road work, the highway commission contemplated construction of the Columbia River Highway through to the Deschutes river during the coming summer, according to M. O. Bennett, division engineer who was at The Dalles on March 1, 1916. It was understood that Commissioners Thompson and Booth were partial to the route by way of Chenowith, which would have taken the road through the foothills west of The Dalles.

The highway already had been improved by the country in anticipation of this inland route forming a link in the highway. This included a new bridge over Mill Creek on 9th street, which had already been constructed. However, Commissioner Benson favored a new route following a water grade between Mosier and The Dalles. Bennett reported; "Which one of these routes will be adopted remain to be seen." Bennett believed that a compromise route may be determined upon, using part of the Chenowith road and then deviating towards the river for a portion of the distance. This was not adopted.

That spring State engineers were working on the preliminary surveys and estimates for the link of the Columbia River Highway from The Dalles east to Seuferts. Bids on this link were called for after the necessary plans and specifications had been prepared. The remaining link between Seuferts and the Deschutes river would also be let that year at an estimated cost $150,000. Engineer Bennett stated that the route lying along the Columbia river and practically paralleling the railroad tracks had been decided upon for the link of the highway. It was to be graded and graveled that year. This announcement meant that the Columbia River Highway would be extended during the coming summer of 1916 from Portland through to the Deschutes river connecting with the roads leading into eastern Oregon. Construction on this section would not start for another 3 years.

The location of the final link in the Columbia River Highway between The Dalles and the Deschutes river was supposedly decided on during November of 1919. They almost chose the bench route but it had not yet been surveyed and estimates were said that the route would cost between $70,000 and $100,000 more than the cost of the river route. The river route was chosen because of the cost savings from an engineering standpoint but Wasco county preferred the bench route because of its scenic value.

They also said that the adaptation of the higher bench route from local service would more than compensate for the difference in cost if there really was any. The bench route would have required a completely new grade. It reaches a maximum of about 600 feet and a maximum grade of 5%. The lower route ran between the canal and the railroad tracks, and required 2 overhead viaducts across the tracks.

Old Route Continued to be Used

It took almost as long to locate the Columbia River Highway through Wasco county as it did to grade it. For this reason those who were calculating on driving to Pendleton in the fall of 1919 over a newly graded road had to follow the old bench route. The difficulty in finding a suitable route through the county seemed to be the result of a war of factions which had run a course as tortuous as Ten Mile creek through the history of The Dalles. It was recalled that there was a fight before the location of that road was finally settled west of The Dalles.

There was now a new battle and it was preventing the completion of the CRH east of The Dalles between Seuferts and the Deschutes river. While the details were worked out travelers were forced to take the old road and pay a toll to cross into Sherman county. The new state bridge across the Deschutes was unable to be used as the road was not connected to it on the Wasco county side. Proposals were made to make a temporary road from the  west side of the new bridge to connect with the old road until things could be worked out.

The 12 mile stretch between Seufert and the mouth of the Deschutes river was the last link to be forged in the Columbia River Highway. There was a general impression since 1916 that the location had already been made, the state highway commission deciding on the route alongside the Celilo canal, but the case had been reopened to give consideration to the bench route which, had been persistently advocated by Malcolm Moody. As to mileage there was practically no difference between the two routes at first sight but the bench route may have been a trifle longer for the reason that it would follow the contour of the hill.

When the choosing of the route first came up in 1916 the present county road location was eliminated on the start. It was too long and winding and the grade too excessive. The choice then fell between what was called the river route or the bench route. The river route was tentatively adopted for the reason that it was direct and on a water grade. It was also to take advantage of about six miles of the old portage railway grade and two miles of abandoned O. W. R. & N. grade which would be easily converted into the highway grade.

The river route also called for the construction of 2 viaducts over the railroad track but it was figured that this cost would not bring the total up to the cost of making a new grade along the bench. It was estimated that there was a difference of $70,000 or $100,000 in cost in favor of the river route. The proposed river route crossed the railroad track near Big Eddy on a viaduct and then picked up the old portage grade between the Celilo canal and the railroad all the way to Celilo falls.

Above Celilo it crossed back on the south side of the railroad on another viaduct. (You can still see this section on the satellite maps) These 2 viaducts were the principal items of construction. One bad feature was stretches of sand which caused considerable maintenance expense. The bench route follows the first bench south of the railroad, reaching at its highest point an elevation of approximately 600 feet above the river. It afforded a view of Celilo falls and canal. Today the route can still be followed and the view now is of the lake formed behind the dam instead of the falls. The railroad bridge is still there and continues to carry trains across the river.

The most difficult construction of the bench route would have been in getting down off the bench at the eastern end where it joins the river route, about one mile west of the Deschutes river. To get off the bench it would have required a 5% grade of heavy work. The current grade on the hill was 10% and 18%. The cost was estimated to be almost as great as it would be to grade the entire river route. There was also some sand on the bench. After going over the bench route that November of 1919, Highway Commissioners Booth and Burgess told Wasco county that the state commission would make a survey of the bench route and then make an estimate of the cost of construction. The commissioners said it would build along the bench and pay the expense of the survey if the county would pay the extra cost and pay for the survey.

The county was given a few days to consider the proposal and to hear the public sentiment. It was claimed the bench route is more scenic and would afford opportunity for connection with lateral roads. This issue caused the delay in the construction of this last link in the highway. The river route location had practically reached the construction stage. There were yet a few details to arrange with the war department regarding the right of way along the canal.

Incidental to the delay was the question of what was to done with the new bridge across the Deschutes which was completed in 1920. The state had built this new bridge across the river just below the toll bridge. It was completed before the river route was graded. It could have been used if a short road were built connecting it with the old county road. This, however, would have required condemnation proceedings as the owner of the toll bridge was unwilling to give right of way to a project which would render the toll bridge unnecessary.

The bench route was still being used in the spring of 1920 and a traveler had said; "About 15 miles from The Dalles the highway passes at an elevation by Celilo falls and the Celilo canal and locks. I do not know of a more picturesque bit of scenery along the whole Columbia River Highway than that which here opens to view. From the highway the traveler has a magnificent view of the falls and of the rugged hills on each side of the Columbia, which are now turning a beautiful deep spring green."

"At mileage 17 out of The Dalles we came down from the plateau to the crossing of the picturesque Deschutes, which here comes tearing out of its canyon to join the Columbia. We crossed it on the rickety old Miller's toll bridge which always seems on the point of failing but apparently hangs on for the next traveler's dollar."

Construction Begins on the Final Link in the Highway

On March 7, 1920 the state highway commission opened bids for the final link in the CRH. Construction on this 15 mile stretch began at the end of March 1920. The engineering problems encountered were numerous and some of them difficult. The river route was chosen and the new road paralleled the canal for more than 8 miles. The most cragged portion of the highway was along this section. Titanic pillars rear themselves skyward and their basaltic formation has withstood the battering of several geological periods. The tumbling waters of Celilo falls held the tourist of yesteryear spellbound.

The great waterway project of the Celilo canal, a portion of its length cut through solid stone, was an engineering monument. At Five Mile creek a concrete bridge 220 feet was constructed at the west end of the canal. There were 2 overhead railroad crossings which protected the motorist from having to make 2 dangerous railroad crossings. Part of this section was built over sands, but engineers were confident that the shifting\of the sand across the highway could be successfully combated. With the completion of this section, drivers were able to travel from the Pacific ocean to the Blue mountains of Eastern Oregon on a good road.

Predictions were made that between Seuferts and the Deschutes river the new highway would be open for traffic about August 1, 1921 as the grading of this 13 mile section along the Celilo rapids was almost finished by June 26th. This was the last section of the highway to be graded. The construction which involved 2 overhead crossings, an 80-foot tunnel, and a 60-foot rock cut was unusually heavy and the total cost approached $500,000.

It was a federal aid project and when completed the old county bench route over the hill ceased to serve as the main traveled road. Through the courtesy of Robert L. Dugan of the Manley Auto company, Oregonian reporter R. C. Johnson visited this work in mid June. He wanted to see the point where "Jim" Clarkson was cutting off the rock of a 200-foot high Gibraltar so that the highway could run between the railroad track and the bluff. When they got into some sand, Johnson had a vision of remaining there quite a while under a hot sun, but he did not take into account the driving qualities of Dugan and his Hupmobile.

Though their progress was a little slow they ground steadily through after burning up a lot of fuel. Johnson said there were; "Great wide wallows and scattered pieces of broken planking which indicated that others had tried to cross this sandy stretch and had experienced a lot of trouble in getting traction. If anyone else wants to see the work I would advise that they park their car at the end of the newly graveled grade just beyond, Big Eddy and walk the remainder of the way."

"It is about a mile walk and the going is slow. The chief interest of the work now is the blasting of a roadway around a rocky promontory which rises to a sheer height of 240 feet and comes down almost to the river. The point is locally known as Cape Horn. It has the reputation of being the most windy point on the entire length of the Columbia river. Whenever any of the local male residents want a new hat all they have to do is to go to the spot and wait until a train comes by. Nine times out of 10 the hat of some luckless passenger on the rear end of the train comes sailing out. One of the workmen was showing me a nice silk cap that had landed on his head from the observation car of the Oregon-Washington limited that day."

"In the original plan it was intended by the highway department to drive a tunnel through this point. But it was found, however, that the ledge was too seamy and the scheme had to be abandoned owing to the danger to the railroad from a probable collapse of the outer wall. The only alternative was to make an open cut by chipping off the face of the cliff to a depth wide enough to allow passage between the track and the bluff. This is necessarily a slow work as the rock as it is broken off must be carried out to the rear. It can not be dumped over the side into the river.

"Extreme care and precaution must be used to avoid any delay or danger to passing trains. Contractor Clarkson says the job will be finished in three weeks, but experience has shown that what the contractors say they can do can be safely discounted slightly. While the roadway is being cut around the bluff the finishing touches are being given to the completion of the upper railroad overhead crossing near Dillon and the putting of the gravel surface on the finished grade. East of Cape Horn an 80 foot tunnel has been bored and the grade has been surfaced all the way to the Deschutes river. West of Cape Horn the grade has been practically completed. About one mile of it remains to be graveled."

The approaches to the upper viaduct were graded and the work of capping the sand fills with heavy rock had begun. By the time the cut around Cape Horn was completed the road would be ready for traffic. Outside of the engineering problems involved, this section of the highway was of interest for the reason that it skirted along the canal and brought into view that great work which represented an expenditure of millions of dollars by the federal government.

At close up was also afforded the seething waters as they boiled between the lava walls of narrow chasms. Leaving the old county road at a point about 2 miles east of The Dalles, the highway coursed around the edge of the Seufert orchards of cherries and peaches. It crossed Eight-Mile creek on a concrete bridge, leaving the Seufert cannery buildings to the left, and headed for the lower end of the canal. Before reaching the canal it crossed the railroad track on a high reinforced concrete viaduct and then, followed along between the canal and the railroad track for several miles.

West of Dillon it re-crossed the railroad on another concrete viaduct and wound its way under the bluff until Cape Horn was rounded, giving a splendid view of the river where it was crossed by the bridge which carries the trains over the Columbia. There was talk of planking this bridge so automobiles could use it (for a small fee) instead of having to take the ferry. From Cape Horn the highway continued south of the railroad track through a tunnel and then to the crossing of the Deschutes. Johnson ended his article by saying; "When this Celilo section of the highway is completed and the pavement to The Dalles now under contract is finished, the growing fame of the Columbia River Highway will be enhanced a thousand fold."

Highway is Opened

On October 30, 1921 the last link in the Columbia River Highway was opened but around Cape Horn they were still busy completing the roadway and for about 100 yards only one lane could be used. This was completed early in November. On August 19, 1920 H. W. Lyman from the Oregonian wrote an article about the opening of this section; "Cape Horn the giant mass of rock fronting the Columbia river 10 miles east of The Dalles which stood as a barrier to the completion of that section of the Columbia River Highway has at last been overcome, and except for the paving operations between Mosier and The Dalles the Columbia River Highway was now open on the new and permanent grade throughout the entire distance from Portland to Pendleton, 235 miles."

The 105 miles of paved highway from Portland to Astoria, gave the Columbia River Highway a length of 340 miles, the entire distance of which had been established on permanent grade and surfaced with either pavement. macadam or gravel. This was at the time perhaps, the longest stretch of permanent improved highway of any state in the union. Of the distance, approximately 184 miles was hard surfaced pavement, while the rest was macadam or gravel and was in excellent shape.

The last stretch of the highway which was thrown open to use by the completion of the grade around Cape Horn. The distance between The Dallas and the Deschutes river is 15 miles, and the new highway eliminated the severe 20 mile road over the hills between those two points. This old wagon road was particularly steep at the Deschutes river end and motorists coming west had to climb one of the most severe grades in Oregon. Radiators were frequently boiling over and a team was kept on hand by the state highway department to aid drivers and was frequently used.

Cape Horn was one of the most unusual scenic features along the CRH above The Dalles, is a gigantic bluff over 100 feet high, which sticks out from the adjoining mountainside almost to the water's edge. The name confused motorists with the better known Cape Horn on the Washington side of the Columbia river opposite Crown point. The Oregon Cape Horn now known as Applegate point is a formation which in general is similar to Crown point and to the Washington Cape Horn and offered a barrier to the highway which caused much planning and study on the part of locating engineers.

As the edge of the cliff came nearly to the water's edge, the Oregon-Washington railroad was forced to hug closely to the gigantic rock in making its grade, while between the railroad and the river, the low land was subject to overflow in extremely high water, the Celilo canal was built by the government out of the solid rock forming this portion of the river bottom. In locating the highway it was determined to keep well down on the river level and not to climb to the top of Cape Horn, as was done at Crown point, and thus to eliminate the long climb which would have been necessary to get to the higher elevation.

The Deschutes tunnel ran through the mass of rock similar to that at Mitchell point, but was simpler and cheaper in construction. But, when many sections of the highway between The Dalles and the Deschutes river were well along towards completion and the task of driving the tunnel through Cape Horn was started, an unusual and unexpected obstacle was encountered. The formation of the rock was such that a tunnel could not be driven through Cape Horn.

In the early spring of 1920, two attempts were made, and each time gigantic cave-ins were the result. Hundreds of tons of rook crashed down upon the proposed right-of-way. It was out of the question to attempt to drive a cut through the bluff at this point, with the rock towering over a hundred feet above. The space between the railroad track and the bluff was so narrow that it seemed impossible to establish the grade there. The engineers were in a quandary. But after a thorough study of the problem it seemed that there was but one possible solution, to cut a way for the highway around the base of the rock next to the railroad track.

Naturally the railroad company did not take very kindly to this suggestion, as there was great danger that the blasting might result in thousands of tons of rock crashing down upon the track, burying it at that point and completely blocking traffic. Finally an agreement was reached, however, and early in the summer of 1920 work began and was carried through with great caution. It was notable that not one or the blasts went wrong and that the entire cut was made without any quantity of rock falling onto the track.

The rock formation of Cape Horn may be likened to tall spires, and it was necessary to work from the top down and to pick off these spires one at a time and to skillfully shoot them down into the highway right-of-way below. The work was handled by fastening tackle up the face of the cliff and employing air-pressure drills. An iron bar was sunk into the rock at the top of the cliff and to this the tackle was attached. The worker carrying the air-pressure drill, was then hoisted by means of a rope and swing seat up the face of the rock to the point where the blast was to be made.

Here he drilled the hole, put in the "soup" and came down to wait for the shot to be exploded. As only one, or at most 2 men, could do this drilling at a time and as but small blasts could be used on account of the proximity of the railroad track, the work was very slow, and motorists during the entire summer of 1920 were forced to make the severe detour over the old road, while the new pathway for the highway was being literally pecked from the side of the cliff.

On September 1, 1920 the work had progressed sufficiently to allow use of the new grade, and it was thrown open to traffic. All of the blasting made a sufficient path around the base of the rock and gave room for the highway beside the railroad track. The permanent grade still needed to be established there and the smooth gravel surface needed to be completed, and workmen were engaged in that task of completing the job. Until late tall, when this final portion of the road was finished, motorists making the trip over this road had about 100 yards of rough single track highway to drive over with a foundation of sharp rocks in which the tires had cried out in pain.

To find out the condition of this new stretch of highway from The Dalles around Cape Horn and as far east as Arlington, the writer made the run from Portland to Arlington and returned on the weekend of August 13th with Sam Little who was a salesman for the C. L. Boss Automobile company. They sold Hudson and Essex automobiles and one of their Essex touring models was used for the run, which was made without mechanical difficulty of any kind. This little car had racked up more transcontinental records, than any other make of car in the country during the time.

The dash of 150 miles from Portland to Arlington and the same distance back again was easy drive. The new highway above The Dalles was a fitting continuation of the scenic highway from Portland to The Dalles. While the country is barren and treeless and very hot in summer, it possesses a beauty and grandeur as distinctive as the forested areas of the lower section of the highway. From The Dallas the highway ran eastward over pavement to the outskirts of that city, following the side of the hill and affording a splendid view of the river.

The junction of the The Dalles-California highway is reached, and this highway has already become one of the most important highways of the state. Today this road is called Highway 197. That highway turns off to the right or southward, and the Columbia River Highway continued eastward and straight ahead. Soon Big Eddy and the entrance to the Celilo canal was reached, and that peculiar section of the Columbia River was glimpsed. where the water rushes through a volcanic crack in the earth and the river became scarcely a stones throw in width. The highway ran eastward following close to the Celilo canal and giving frequent interesting glimpses of the canal and of the river. Next was Cape Horn and the road rounded that promontory and continued to Celilo where was located the rugged Celilo falls of the Columbia.

Just below the falls, which was a continuous cataract for many hundreds of feet rather than a single plunge, is the railroad bridge of the Oregon trunk across the Columbia, while above the falls was the upper entrance to the Celilo canal. This point, with bridge, cataract and canal, was the scenic feature of this portion of the highway. It was worth while to stop and ramble around the rocks and visit the main falls. The motorist probably got a glimpse of the Indian village at this point and saw some of the Indians spearing salmon in the rapids.

From Celilo the highway continued eastward along the bank of the river, with the Oregon-Washington railroad line on the river side and the Oregon trunk on the hillside above, and to the right, another cliff was reached and then the highway plunged through a short tunnel, this being the fourth tunnel on the road from Portland. Shortly the Deschutes river was reached and the highway crossed over the new concrete span which was completed in the summer of 1920.

The bridge would be demolished after the dam was completed to make room for the new railroad and highway bridges. From the Deschutes river the highway followed the Columbia river bank, well above the railroad grade and then across the John Day river and on to Arlington.