History of Chehalis
By Curt Cunningham

Saunders' Bottom

The Cowlitz Trail between the Highlands and the Skookum Chuck ran through the Newaukum and Chehalis river valleys. The low lands between Chehalis and Centralia was first known by the settlers as "Saunders' Bottom" and was almost impassible during the wet season, which can be as long as 9 months a year. This "soggy bottom" land had mud that was so deep it would sink a horse up past its knees.

After a few days of heavy rain, Saunders' Bottom would flood and become a large lake about four miles across, and canoes were often used to cross over the now submerged prairies. There was an often told story that if a traveler was passing along and saw a hat floating on top of the flooded prairie, not to be surprised if a horse and rider rose up from under it a moment later. One emigrant party, it is said, camped for the night at McElroy's, now the site of the Southwest Washington Fairgrounds. In the morning, when the travelers awoke, they found themselves on a tiny island surrounded by a sea of water. Salzer creek had flooded the area during the night. It was now a mile to dry land in all directions. One of the party had to swim for help, and later returned with a raft.

The Mountain Trail

Between Chehalis and Centralia, the Cowlitz Trail coming up from the Cowlitz Landing first passed through the Wet prairie and then Indian prairie before reaching the Skookumchuck crossing. Wet prairie, as one could surmise by its name, was one of the worst sections. Before any roads were built through Saunders' Bottom, there used to be two trails. The first one was used during the rainy season to avoid the muddy bottoms and ran over the high hills to the east which was called Mud Mountain. The other trail ran across the bottoms and was used in the summer when the ground had dried. Mud mountain is said to be east of Chehalis, although in the book Centralia the First Fifty Years complied by Herndon Smith in 1942, said it was Seminary Hill.

Plenty of travelers wrote about their experiences in taking this route. In 1841, Lt. Charles Wilkes, in his survey of this region, said that this trail went up a grade so steep that steps had to be cut in the hillside so the horses could get up and down the muddy incline.

On December 3, 1853, an employee of Parker, Coulter & Company, gave a report on the condition of the road between Olympia and Rainier, Oregon. The following account is when he reaches the Skookum Chuck from Olympia; "There are several small creeks to cross before reaching the Skookum Chuck, but all of them are fordable. As a general thing, travelers ride as far as Judge Ford's or Mr. Goodell's on the first day, and at either place they get well attended to. Skookum Chuck which is 30 miles from Olympia, and the slough on either side of it, are not fordable." 

"The Chehalis, however are camped in the vicinity for the purpose of conveying travelers in their canoes and swimming the horses, over both streams. Indian Prairie comes next, and then the Wet Prairie, which one week ago, was covered with water to the depth of nearly 3 feet. Then you come to a creek or slough, over which you must swim your horse, and, after traveling 4 miles of bad road, through mud above your horses knees, you come out of the woods at Mr. Saunders'." 

"Last year travelers avoided the Wet Prairie and the slough by taking the Mountain Trail, but now on account of the windfalls, that road is obstructed. Passing Mr. Saunders' you come to the "Burnt Woods," where the road passes over a bottom of rich blue clay. This is one of the worst places, as a horse sinks to his shoulder nearly every step. When over this part, 3 miles farther on brings you to the Newaukum, which is not fordable, and you must swim you and your horse across." 

"Mr. John Moore is building a good ferry boat here which he intends launching on December 5th. The road from the Newaukum on past Jackson's is in good traveling order the rest of the way to the Cowlitz Landing. At the landing, the traveler, after spending a comfortable night at Powell's, takes passage in a canoe to Rainier. Mr. Townsend and Moody run the mail canoe, which leaves the landing regularly every Thursday morning at 7am and lands passengers at Rainier the same day in time for supper at Moody's."

On May 5, 1886, the Washington Standard printed a letter written by Antonio Rabbeson about the Simmons' party's trip up the Cowlitz Trail to Tumwater in 1845. The following is when the party reaches Saunders' Bottom; "The women drove the cattle, while the men went ahead and cut the road. The trip from Cowlitz Landing to Bush Prairie, at the head of the Sound, was made in two weeks. None but those who have traveled over this old original road can form any idea of what a trip that must have been."

"At that time the route lay over Mud Mountain and a country cut up with deep gulches and covered with heavy timber. The old trail wound around and over fallen timber, and as the party had no saws, it was compelled to get along with axes. When reaching a tree that was too large to cut with axes, they built a bridge over it."

"When about half way over the mountain, Governor Douglas of the Hudson Bay Company overtook them on his annual trip north, and he remarked that he believed "the blasted Americans could take a wagon where an Indian would not attempt to take a pack horse." When the company arrived at the point where Tenino is now built, their sleds gave out and it was found necessary to build new ones. Hardly had this point been left behind, when the rain set in and continued to fall without ceasing for three days."

In 1847, The Chambers family arrived at Tumwater and took a claim on a prairie about 4 miles east of the new settlement that would eventually take their name. The following, written by Andrew Chambers in 1908, is when they traveled from the Cowlitz Landing through Saunders' Bottom; "When we reached Cowlitz Landing, we swam the stock to the north side of the river and waited for the boats. This landing is at the lower end of Cowlitz Prairie."

"This prairie was settled by the Canadian French and it is a fine farming country. The Hudson Bay Company and the Catholic Mission each had fine farms there. We rented twenty acres of land from the Catholic Mission and twenty acres from John R. Jackson and put in a crop of winter wheat. When the crop was in we left the stock needed to haul our wagons to the prairie (Chambers') which we had selected for our future home, and started to drive the remainder of the stock through." 

"We drove them over Mud Mountain, or Mud Hill, all of the first settlers traveled this way, and we crossed the Deschutes about two miles above Tumwater. There was an Indian trail from Bush Prairie to Chambers' Prairie. Then we went back to Saunders' Bottom and completed the wagon road around Mud Mountain. This hill is east of Chehalis. There was one family living there at that time. We prospected and blazed out a road. We found trees on the bank of the creek that suited us for making a bridge."

"We built the bridge and cut out the wagon road through Saunders' Bottom, a distance of three miles. The creek's source was from Mud Mountain and the banks were steep and muddy and could not be crossed without a bridge. We then came to New Market, one of the first settlements on Puget Sound."

In June of 2024 I took a hike up Seminary Hill and located the old wagon trail. From what I could tell most of the Kiser trail is on the path of the old road. One section was cut off and not used anymore but you can clearly see that it was a part of the old road. The roadway is so overgrown with grass and bushes but no trees, and you can tell it was definably wider than it is now. Near the top of the 500 foot climb there is a section called the Old Wagon Trail and it runs along the ridge before it begins the descent to Seminary Hill Road which was also part of this old road. 

As you walk up the hill on the Kiser trail and before you reach the sign which says "Old Wagon Trail," if you turn left and after a very short walk you come to a viewpoint which you can see for miles. Looking out through the trees over Centralia lets you know just how high up you really are. The forest is so thick it is hard to tell how far up you go. From the parking lot you first climb up a steep trail but closer to the top the rise is more gradual. I took photos of the hike but they are hard to see the road bed. You just have to take the hike to really get a feel of the old road.

Settlement of the Bottoms

In 1852, Schuyler Stuart Saunders and Eliza Tynan Saunders arrived on the bottoms and took a claim about 4 miles south of the Skookum Chuck and 6 miles northwest of the Newaukum river crossing. Part of their claim would become the city of Chehalis. The Saunders' came west to California during the gold rush of 1849, and after 2 years there, decided to travel north to the Oregon Territory where they took their claim. The Saunders' separated in 1859, and Eliza kept the north portion of their claim as it was in her name. In 1860, while on a trip to procure supplies, Schuyler succumbed to pneumonia and passed away.

In 1853, Judge Obadiah McFadden was sent to the new Washington Territory by President James Buchanan, who was at the time, secretary of state. McFadden was sent to fill the vacant position of justice of the supreme court. In 1858, McFadden was appointed Chief Justice and served until 1861, when he was replaced. In 1859, McFadden and his wife Margaret, purchased the southern half of Saunders' claim and started to farm. The cabin they built in 1859 still stands today at 475 Chehalis Avenue and is the oldest building in Lewis County. At one time the cabin was used as the Chehalis post office.

McFadden practiced law until 1872, when he was elected Territorial delegate to Congress and spent most of the next two years in Washington DC. While he lived in the Pacific Northwest, he was an active leader of the democratic party, and was energetic and influential in all matters pertaining to the welfare of the Territory. The judge was a man of many talents; an able lawyer and jurist, a good farmer, resourceful pioneer, was always friendly in society, and a born leader. McFadden would pass away on June 25, 1875.

In 1855 before reaching the Saunders' place, as you came north up the trail from the Highlands, and after passing the Bernier farms and crossing the Newaukum river on Moore's ferry, the next set of settlers the traveler would have passed by were; Alonzo B. Dillenbach, William Metcalf, J. H. Foster, Lewis Johnson, A. S. Wilson, Elkana Mills, William Mills and Edward Yates. The 1855 schoolhouse was located where the Chehalis Middle School now sits.

In the early 1850's Elkana and Laurinda Mills arrived on the bottoms and took a claim southeast of Chehalis. Later in the 1860's, Elkana would manage the hotel, stage station and ferry at Claquato.

The Cowlitz Trail is Improved

On April 14, 1855, Schuyler Saunders placed an ad in the newspaper asking for workers to help build a new road from his claim to the Skookum Chuck that would bypass Mud Mountain. This was so they could make a better connection with the Olympia road. Saunders had to build 2 bridges; 1 that was 750 feet long over the Skookumchuck River and another that was about 200 feet long that crossed Salzer Creek. After its completion, farmers had an easier route to Olympia to sell their produce.

On May 8, 1858, the Saunders' established a post office at their home and it was called Saundersville. Throughout the 1860's, any tired travelers who needed a place to stay for the night, found the Saunders' home welcoming and it became another resting place along the Cowlitz Trail. 

In 1860, a realignment of the V & S Military Road was being built from Olequa to MacDonald's Station and then north to Claquato and the Skookum Chuck. The original route from Olequa was northeast to Drew's mills on what is now called Telegraph Road, and then east to meet the Cowlitz Trail at the Cowlitz settlement near the Mission. This road was completed in August of 1861.

During December of 1861, a heavy rainfall brought flood waters to the already soggy ground making travel almost impossible. Several farmers had decided to make the trip to Olympia despite the harsh conditions. They started out in the morning with a wagon load of about 30 bushels of wheat. In a short time, the flood waters overtook them before they could get out of the valley, and they barely escaped with their lives. The wagon and wheat were sacrificed as "tribute" to the torrent. 

New Settlers Arrive

About 1862 bachelors John Alexander and John Decker arrived at Saundersville and took claims near the Chehalis river west of Saunders' place. Decker lived on what will become the J. A. Scolard farm. Later this farm would be sold to Noah Bosworth, who sold it to Fred Long son of J. H. Long, who then sold it to John Dobson. Dobson would live there until his passing.

William West wrote in his memoirs that; "J. D. Decker had been living on his claim for several years, which was a small prairie of about 200 acres, surrounded by heavy timbered land. He had a good comfortable frame house, a good orchard and large barns, and most of his land under cultivation. One of the barns had a threshing floor thirty feet square, on which he tramped out his grain with the horses, and winnowed out the chaff with a fanning mill. He also had a large canoe made out of a cedar log that would carry 125 bushels of wheat, with which he boated his wheat down the river to the mouth of the Skookumchuck to the old Borst blockhouse, and took it from there by wagon to Olympia, a distance by river and road of about forty miles." 

"He came originally from Maryland, and had the courtesy and hospitality of the southern planter. He gave us a hearty welcome to the best of everything and our worn-out team luxuriated in a good pasture free of charge. His nearest neighbor was John Alexander, who had located here two years previously upon his return from the Fraser river gold mines, and who, like Mr. Decker, lived the life of a bachelor bold and brave, with everything that his heart could crave. There were in this new country at this time far too many of these bachelor homes, plenty to eat and drink and wear, but cheerless. There was a dearth of a woman's smile and the merry prattle of childhood."

In 1864, William West arrived on the bottoms. His claim was filed on May 15, 1869, which was located on Coal Creek, northeast of Saunders' place. West was born in England on October 9, 1838. In 1855, the West family traveled across the Atlantic to Quebec and settled in Pike County, Illinois. On April 12, 1864 West with his wife and brother in-law, John Dobson started on their journey to Oregon. The party arrived at Oregon City on September 22, 1864.

After the party arrived in Oregon, they traveled down the Columbia river to Monticello. Dr. Ostrander gave the newcomers a cordial welcome. The next day the party began the journey up the Military Road. At Arkansas creek William Jackson was most hospitable. The next stop was at William Pumphrey's place. When they reached Saunders' Bottom, they met John Alexander and John Decker who volunteered to help them locate claims. 

West was instrumental in bringing the railroad to town and would help Eliza build the new city. He was known to the later arrivals as the "Father of Chehalis." West's nearest neighbor was John Alexander, who had arrived in 1862, and lived out the remainder of his life as a bachelor on Coal Creek.

The Cowlitz Trail Slowly Becomes a Road

In 1863, $1,000 was raised by subscription in the City of Olympia for the improvement of the Cowlitz Trail through Saunders' Bottom. The road was improved from Saundersville north to the Military Road at Skookum Chuck. This work created a new and shorter road that was cut out through the forest. Most of this new route would eventually be paved with corduroy over the places where previously the wagons would sink to their axles in the mud.

Ezra Meeker said it best when he described the road conditions in his 1905 book Pioneer Reminiscences of Puget Sound; "And such mud holes! It became a standing joke after the Military road was opened that a team would stall with an empty wagon going down hill, and I came very near having just such an experience once, within what is now the city limits of the thriving city of Chehalis. After the saddle train came the mud wagons in which passengers were conveyed (or invited to walk over bad places, or preferred to walk), over either the roughest corduroy or deepest mud, the one bruising the muscles the other straining the nerves in the anticipation of being dumped into the bottomless pit of mud."

The Railroad Comes to Town

In September of 1870, the Saundersville post office moved from Saunders' cabin over to McFadden's cabin and the name was changed to Chehalis. Also that year the Northern Pacific railroad asked Eliza if she would donate 40 acres of land for the privilege of having a depot established there. She refused their request, so the railroad built the depot at Newaukum, which is about 3 miles away and tried to make it a town to rival Chehalis. The scheme failed.

After the railroad finished the line to Tacoma late in 1873, they refused a request to make Saundersville a flag stop. This forced the residents to walk 3 miles along the tracks and across a high trestle over the river to reach the Newaukum depot. The farmers flat out refused to haul their produce there. It wasn't long for the residents to become quite angry from having to travel along the dangerous railroad track for miles just to catch the train.

The other way to the depot from Saundersville was to take the wagon road to Claquato and then take the Military Road across the ferry, then up the hill and then down a steeper grade into Newaukum. Nobody liked that route either. When the Northern Pacific offered to build a courthouse at Newaukum in hopes their railroad town would become the county seat, the residents balked at the offer.

They began to protest and a public meeting was held to figure out a way to induce the company into at least giving them a flag station. At the meeting, a committee was appointed consisting of William West, Ed Davis and J. H. Long. They were to present their case to John Wilson Sprague, superintendent of the railroad division, headquartered at Kalama.

The committee then walked to Newaukum and boarded the train for Kalama, where they presented their case to Sprague. One of the things they asked for was that if a station was to be built, they wanted the railroad to include building a wagon bridge over the Chehalis River so the farmers in the upper valley west of Saundersville, could reach the depot. Mr. Sprague replied; "Maybe we could build the bridge over the river and then build a plank road fifty feet above the high-water mark, but the Northern Pacific would not put in one dollar."

After much persuasion, however, they succeeded in getting the flag station, and as a compliment to their perseverance, Sprague gave the committee a free pass home, and for the first time a Northern Pacific train stopped in Saundersville. Sometime later in 1874, a delivery did occur at Saundersville when Northern Pacific conductor Jack Hewitt accepted a $20 gold piece to stop the train and deliver goods to John Alexander.

Not long after, a company was organized for the purpose of building a warehouse next to the tracks. The founders of the company were; William West, John Alexander, L. A. Davis, Albion P. Scammon, William Pulsifer, William A. Eadon, Obadiah B. McFadden, Lorenz Bolsen, J. H. Long, Thomas Waterbury, George J. Hogue, A. F. Tullis, John T. Newland, Robert H. Miller and Joseph Clare. The warehouse was named "Chehalis Station" by the company.

It was the first public building in town, located on Main street, on the west side of the track a block from where the new courthouse will be built. The Northern Pacific was compelled the to stop its trains there as it couldn't ignore a warehouse full of freight, and passengers waiting to buy tickets. The warehouse would be used by the railroad as a freight depot for a number of years.

The company had to hire a man to manage the warehouse, as the railroad refused to put in one of their own agents. The farmers were charged a small fee for the storage of goods to help defray the expenses of keeping the warehouse open. After the warehouse was completed, George J. Hogue, who owned a general store in Claquato, opened another store next to the warehouse with John T. Newland in charge. This would be the beginning of a the town. Dr. Dimiery was the first physician.

So well had the dominating spirits of the new town been pleased and encouraged with their success in the controversy with the railroad company that they looked around for other worlds to conquer, and concluded that they needed the county seat.

Chehalis Becomes the County Seat

On November 11, 1873, the Territorial Legislature made Saundersville the Lewis County seat. However, a provision had been inserted into the bill which said the county would only pay $1,000 toward building a new courthouse. To make up the difference needed to construct a building, several private citizens including Noah Bosworth, George J. Hogue, John Dobson, John T. Newland, and William West had to sign a bond promising to pay any additional costs. The Claquato residents could not match the offer, and after getting bypassed by the railroad, Claquato lost any leverage and the county seat was moved to Saundersville.

Quickly the committee bought and cleared an acre of land on State Street for future use as a county courthouse site, and in the spring of 1874, a contract for construction of a new courthouse building was awarded to W. H. Taylor & Sons of Olympia. The new two-story Saundersville courthouse was finished in June of 1874. The building was 30 x 46 feet, the upstairs held the courtroom, and the downstairs contained public offices. The building cost $3,000, requiring each of the bondsmen to pay $400 toward the deficit unpaid by the county. 

On July 4, 1874 the courthouse was dedicated with a public celebration featuring speeches and games. That evening, the courthouse held a ball that cost $2.50 per couple. The military band from Fort Vancouver provided the music. On August 1, 1874, the county commissioners moved all of the documents and functions of the county seat to Saundersville. The courthouse was used until 1897 when county business outgrew the location. The frame building was sold and moved to the corner of Market and West streets. Years later, the old courthouse caught fire and burnt to the ground.

Saundersville Becomes a Town

On May 8, 1875, Eliza laid out a town which she named "Saundersville." John Urquhart was appointed that year as postmaster. The school was still in the old log cabin that was located near Wylie's claim on the Newaukum road. In 1876 a new schoolhouse was built in town opposite the courthouse for $600. The directors were; John Alexander, William West and A. Burbee. If a traveler asked a local where they were, they would either say Saundersville or Chehalis Station depending on who you asked.

In 1878, the first bridge over the Chehalis river on the road to Claquato was completed. The funds used for the construction of this bridge was raised by private subscriptions. This bridge was built over the river at what is today Alexander Park. This bridge was a great help to the farmers who lived west of the river. Also in 1878, William West and John Dobson built a pork packing house which sold the famous Chehalis bacon and ham. M. D. Rondebush & Botham began construction on a flour mill at the mouth of the Newaukum river. Wadhams & Elliot of Portland built a sawmill on the Chehalis river with a 35,000 foot daily capacity.

In 1879 the Territory officially recognized the name change from Saundersville to Chehalis.

In the Spokane Times printed on March 4, 1880, they said that a romantic marriage over in Chehalis county is when several of the neighbors get the bride's father into a back room and sit on him to prevent his interrupting and breaking up the wedding.

On March 4, 1881, a correspondent for the Olympia newspaper The Washington Standard recorded the new construction in Chehalis. The reporter said that the town was prospering while West & Dobson were busy curing bacon that was the best in the region. Mr. Burbee opened a new store, and a blacksmith shop was started by C. Berry. The correspondent also said that the Chehalis bridge was in danger of collapsing due to the heavy rains.

The Chehalis Tragedy

On December 6, 1881 a sad tragedy occurred when a two-horse wagon driven by Thomas Phelps flipped over while fording the Chehalis river. Phelps, who was helping the wife of John Dobson with her one year old infant child, and 19 year old Dora West, cross the river. Dora was the daughter of William West. They were on a trip to visit relatives in another part of the county. The ladies of the party had been a accustomed to driving teams, and they felt no uneasiness about their ability to make their journey safely. 

Mr. Dobson told them to get Mr. Phelps, who lived near the ford and was familiar with it and competent to drive the team over the river, which they did. It was thought they had safely reached their journey's end until 24 hours after, when relatives that they had intended to visit heard that the party started. They immediately went to the river and found the team about one-fourth of a mile below the ford still hitched to the forward part of the wagon, the horses standing in water knee deep, the tongue of the wagon out of the neck yoke and run half its length into the river bank. 

The team stood in this condition 24 hours, and further below they found the remainder of the wagon and the box, bottom up. Mr. Devlin conveyed the bad news to the neighbors, who immediately went in search of the bodies. Mrs. Dobson was recovered on the 7th at noon, one half mile below where the accident happened. Search continued for the others. The river at the ford was swift and, at the time of crossing, on the wagon box about three inches. It was considered safe fording, as teams cross at such stage. 

The adage that "Misfortunes never come singly," was verified by a second death in Williams West's family that of a son on December 11, 1881 from brain fever.

Chehalis Continues its Growth

On August 22, 1882, the Northern Pacific removed all its buildings back 60 feet from the track. This was for the purpose of making a street on each side of the rails. The streets were both 60 feet wide. The company built a large depot that included a restaurant as the railroad wanted to make Chehalis the place for dining instead of Kalama.

On August 29, 1882, new telegraph offices were established on the Kalama Division. These were at Chehalis and Winlock. Frank Gates from the Olympia office was sent to Chehalis and C. C. Paget, present operator and agent at Carbonado was sent to Winlock. These operators were all agents for the Northern Pacific and Well Fargo & Company.

On January 26, 1883, the Rondebush & Co. flour mill was ready to start grinding wheat. On July 17, 1883 Daniel Rondebush partnered with Charles Sheppard as the Chehalis Flour Mill.

On February 28, 1883, a local resident had written; "Land hunters are numerous and enthusiastic. Henry Miles has sold out to H. J. Duffy. The latter moves here in a day or two, and assumes charge of the Masonic Hall building which he will use for a hotel. Dr. Herndon is building a drug store on the southeast corner of his one-acre lot. Rev. T. Briolette is erecting a commodious little residence on the church lot. In fact, improvements have just begun. The general cry is lumber! lumber!! lumber!!!"

"The buzz and whirr about Wadham & Elliott's sawmill sounds kinder lumber. Cough, cold and epizootic are all the rage in Chehalis. Centerville, like Chehalis, is on the boom. When you are in the former place please your eyes by a good look at the glassware Crosby and Woodhouse have just received. Then please your dear little wife by taking a set of glassware home with you. On your way home call and examine the fine stock of dry goods in our stores. Then wander up the streets and church aisles of Chehalis and gaze upon the goodly number of young Chehalisites who have recently entered this mundane sphere, and you will fervently exclaim, "How surpassingly rich is the soil of Chehalis."

On August 31, 1883 Moses Heroux opened a saloon in Chehalis after he was granted a license to sell liquor and another license to keep a billiard table. Also in 1883, Eliza Saunders opened a saloon plus a livery, feed and buggy parts store. Her sons; Alfred, James and William, operated these new businesses. By 1893, the livery stable was the largest and best known stable in the area. That year, the Rainer hotel a 3 story brick building, and the Tynan Opera House were built on Saunders' claim. 

On October 12, 1883 S. A. Clarke of the Willamette Farmer wrote a lengthy article of his trip to the Lewis County fair at Chehalis on the request of the farmers there. His story begins on Tuesday October 9th when he took the Kalama boat across the Columbia and boarded a train for Chehalis Station, arriving at 1pm that afternoon. This is what he said about the city of Chehalis;

"Here I found a young and growing town of about two hundred population, a very handsome depot, or station, two general merchandise stores, quite a number of smaller business houses, and many indications of thrift. The hotel of the place is being enlarged, and will accommodate many guests. A newspaper The Nugget-- was lately started by Messrs. Tozier & Mayfield with flattering prospects." 

"A large steam flouring mill is close by the station, and on the Chehalis river, near by, Wadhams & Elliott, of Portland, have a steam saw mill, with capacity to cut 30,000 feet of boards in ten hours. The residences of the town are neat and convenient, showing to better advantage than any other place between Kalama and the Sound, though the town is not as large as some others. The future of Chehalis depends on its central location, which makes it already the county seat." 

"While it is convenient of access to all parts of Lewis county, it is especially favored by being in the midst of the beautiful Chehalis valley, which is in one of the most fertile spots in the Northwest."

Chehalis was incorporated on December 21, 1883. The city officials were; A. F. Tullis, Mayor; J. E. Willis, Clerk; U. E. Harmon, attorney; City Council members were; T. L. Holloway, M. D. Rondebush, John Scott, H. J. Brooks and W. H. Long.

On January 31, 1884, the Chehalis Nugget said that under the new law women could now sit on the jury in Washington Territory. The Territory had first conducted an experiment during the last term of court in Chehalis with great success. There were two ladies on the grand jury, and there were two on the jury that tried T. J. Smith. They said that in both cases the women stood firmly for law and order, and if there was any "chicken-heartedness" shown, it was by the men.

The 1884 election for the city officials was late for an unknown reason and the results were not heard until April 18th. The new officials were; A. F. Tullis, Mayor and 
William Urquhart, T. L. Holloway, J. S. Herdon, H. J. Brooks, Charles Maynard, P. C. Beaufort and William West, Councilmen. One third of the votes were cast by women.

On June 21, 1884, at 1pm an auction was held for a contract to build 3 Platt truss bridges in Lewis County. The first bridge was over the Chehalis river at Centralia which is now the Mellen Street bridge on the road to Claquato, now called Schueber Road. The second bridge was on the road between Claquato and Chehalis at what is now Alexander park. The third bridge was across the Chehalis river at Adna.

On August 24, 1886, Chehalis still had no fire department and "Weight" socials were the latest craze in town.

The Local Option Law

In 1886 the legislature passed the Local option law. This law allowed a city or county to pass laws prohibiting the sale of liquor. In June of 1886, Chehalis voted to outlaw the sale of spirits.... That is what the temperance people thought. Not long after the devil water was outlawed, a speakeasy by the name of the "Blind Tiger Club" sprang up and had a booming business. The Blind Tiger Club was located somewhere in Chehalis and it was where the younger crowd gathered to drink beer and indulge in carousal's, which were denied to them by the closing of the saloons. By October of 1886, the Blind Tiger Club had silently vanished.

On May 5, 1887 the Chehalis Nugget said that a Seattle man was going to start a saloon in Chehalis, in open defiance of the prohibition law. By July there were 3 saloons openly doing business in Chehalis. The Local option law would be repealed in 1888.

The Chehalis Grocer

On February 15, 1889, Lewis County Sheriff S. H. Claughton had just returned from escorting George S. Loucks to the east line of the Territory. Loucks, who originally lived in Green County, Wisconsin embezzled $7,000 belonging to his employer and some others while he was there. He fled with his ill-gotten gains to British Columbia leaving his family behind him. From there he traveled to Australia where he spent his money on liquor and carnal pleasures. 

It wasn't long before he decided that the U. S. was the only place to be. He then booked passage to Portland and traveled north to Chehalis and started a grocery store. He did so well there that he opened a branch store in Centralia and a restaurant in Chehalis. Dame fortune was smiling on him and he figured nobody would ever find out about his crimes back in Wisconsin. He would be sorely mistaken. 

The Luca's & Co. detective agency was hired to locate Loucks. It took them 2 months of searching, when he was found with the help of Sheriff Claughton. After some correspondence, the sheriff of Green County accompanied by a deputy, started out for Chehalis arriving on Sunday February 7th. That same day at 5pm an astonished Loucks was arrested by Sheriff Claughton. The Green County Sheriff was anxious and wanted to go back immediately, so Loucks only had a short time to dispose of his affairs. 

He sold out his stores and restaurant for $1,800. This was well below what the goods were worth. He also sold his property for less than half its actual value. Sheriff Claughton accompanied them as far as the eastern boundary of the Territory, as it was feared Loucks might try to get out of their custody by means of a habeas corpus.

Chehalis Boomtown Days

On December 12, 1888 the Chehalis Land & Timber Company was established. The company was going to buy and sell farm and city property, timber lands, build and operate mills, railroads and other things necessary for their business. They already had made an addition of an acre tract of land to Chehalis, and later added 200 acres to the growing city. Over $10,000 worth of town lots were sold in the company's addition on December 11th, the first day they were offered to the public.

Also during December of 1888, the Seattle P. I said that; "J. H. Long, in spite of the rain, was pushing to completion his new store building on Main street which was two stories high, and 25X112 feet, probably the longest building in the county. Several other new buildings are also being crowded along, and they are greatly needed. Not a vacant room in the town, and people arriving every day. One large house is now occupied by four families, and several have a double allowance."

During 1888 Chehalis had over 40 buildings erected with over 800 inhabitants. Three new additions were made to the town, which resulted into the sale of 250 lots. The new structures were; 38 homes, a schoolhouse, hotel, and 2 stores. All of these were constructed in the fall and winter of 1888. By the end of the year there was a sawmill, 2 shingle mills, a sash and door factory, and a roller process flour mill.

Hops became a profitable business in Chehalis. At the beginning of 1889, there were 150 acres planted at Chehalis and another 60 acres at Olequa. In 1888, 200 bales of hops were sold at a value of $8,000. The pork packing house in Chehalis was going full steam and they bought all the hogs that the farmers brought in.

On August 29, 1889 rumors were multiplying regarding the building of a railroad from the east through Yakima to Gray's Harbor, but nothing definite was said. It was known at that time that a party of engineers were in the Cascade Mountains working westward. They had already run lines from Chehalis to Gray's Harbor and were now working from Chehalis toward Naches pass. The most current rumor said it was the Manitoba company. The rumor was spread by General Samuel Thomas of that company which gave substance to the rumor. These rumors caused a mild hysteria and a building boom in Chehalis.

On October 17, 1889, the Chehalis, Pacific & Eastern railroad company was established. This company was going to build a railroad line from Shoalwater bay to Chehalis and then over the Cascades to connect with the Northern Pacific in Yakima. The western terminus was to be a town called Pacific City, that was located for a short time just west of South Bend at Potter Slough. The name was soon changed to Sea Haven. 

There was a town on the Columbia river in Pacific County near Ilwaco that already had that name. This must have caused confusion as to where the town was located so they changed the name to Sea Haven. The investors of this company were from Chehalis and St. Paul. MN. The Chehalis investors were; Francis Donahue, John Dobson, William Urquhart, and Daniel C. Millett. Those from St. Paul were; Charles Morris, John Chandler, and Herman Trott.

The idea for the company began in the spring of 1889 when prospectors who were hired by the eastern capitalists discovered coal of a rare quality on the middle fork of the Newaukum, and in the Cowlitz river. In the meantime Chehalis parties had seen the opportunity for coal mining and timber operations along this proposed route. Day after day farmers from the surrounding area would bring their wagons full of produce into Chehalis from the surrounding fertile valleys. Many head of cattle and other livestock were being sold at profitable prices. These farmers helped build up Chehalis and made Lewis county prosperous. This was well understood by the promoters of the Chehalis, Pacific & Eastern.

At the end of October 1889, the superintendent of construction and other active officials of the Chehalis, Pacific & Eastern met in Chehalis. In anticipation of the speedy building of the railroad, many capitalists were flocking to Chehalis and Sea Haven to purchase town property. Among those convinced of the city's bright future was N. H. Owing, of Olympia, who purchased one of the best and most central locations in the town. Other parties were negotiating for ground to build a large first-class brick hotel. The prospects for Chehalis to become a great inland city were looking better every day.

By November of 1889, Chehalis was expending more money for street improvements than any other city of its size. All the streets in town had been graded to the same level and gravel was brought in for pavement. The new high and dry streets were pleasing to the newcomers. The road between Claquato and Chehalis was paved with macadam, a distance of 4 miles. Increased growth during 1889 and 1890 triggered the incorporation of 3 new banks, the Chehalis Land and Timber Company, Security State Bank, and the First National Bank.

On April 18 1890, it was announced by the South Bend Land Co. that an agreement with the Northern Pacific Railway was reached giving the railroad a right of way along one half of their extensive holdings on the Willapa river as an inducement to build the line. The Northern Pacific, in return promised that by December, 1890, a line would be built from South Bend to Chehalis, and that regular passenger service would be provided for the area.

On May 1, 1890, it was announced that the Northern Pacific was investing $5,000,000 in a new rail line from Yakima to South Bend on Shoalwater bay. The articles of incorporation showed this new company was founded by private interests from Tacoma and was called, the Yakima & Pacific Coast Railroad. The original plan of this new company was to build a railroad and telegraph line beginning at North Yakima, and running in a general direction west along the valley of the Naches river across the Cascades at or near Cowlitz pass thence down the Cowlitz river to Chehalis then following the Chehalis valley to South Bend. They were also going to build a branch line and telegraph from South Bend the southern edge of Gray's Harbor, and another branch line including telegraph from South Bend to Knappton on the Columbia river, then west to Ilwaco and then north to Ocean City.

On May 9, 1890, a stage line began operations between Chehalis and South Bend. On June 9, 1890 the Northern Pacific was building a roundhouse in Chehalis. They also had surveyors returning from Elk Creek who were on their way over the mountains surveying toward Yakima. The Chehalis, Pacific & Eastern was busy trying to secure a right of way and Herman Trott was attending meetings and giving speeches before the board of trade.

On June 30, 1890, N. B. Coffman had returned to Chehalis after a trip to Sea Haven. He was there for several weeks establishing a bank. All the stockholders were from Chehalis. He reported that work had been commenced on the line to South Bend by the Yakima & Pacific Coast Railway. 

The Chehalis, Pacific & Eastern failed to attract investment capital to build their line. The company also had trouble obtaining a right of way through the Simpson mill in South Bend. The company's troubles were too much to bear and early in 1891, the "paper railroad" closed down and the new town of Sea Haven was abandoned. The buildings at Sea Haven were then moved to South Bend. 

The Yakima & Pacific Coast Railway would operate from 1890 to 1892, then the United Railroads of Washington bought the company, who were then bought out by the Northern Pacific who finished the line to South Bend. The first train to run between Chehalis and South Bend was in 1893.

The sky was the limit so everyone thought, but the panic of 1893 came and the bubble burst. After the dust settled, the new hotel in Chehalis ended up being purchased by the county at a tax sale and was converted into the court house. Though the railroad was completed to South Bend, it was never extended to Yakima. The railroad also never extended the line beyond South Bend.

What had intended to be a major railroad operation connected to a seaport, would end up being a local line between Chehalis and South Bend. Trains ran until the 1980's and the line was abandoned in 1993. Today the old right of way is a pedestrian trail open to the public.

Chehalis in the 1890's

For the July 4, 1890 celebrations, the citizens of Chehalis built a framework arch over the road near the bank on Market Street. It was covered with ferns and evergreens and decorated with flags. It was a grand arch and across the front, in letters large enough to be read by the passing trains, were the words "Welcome from Chehalis to George Francis Train" and underneath those words was "the state of Washington's first forth."

On August 30, 1890 the townsfolk of Chehalis became quite worked up over the removal of the post office to the north end of town. It was located almost exactly in the business center near the courthouse. Not a word was said of the contemplated change until that morning. When the people went around to the old building as usual for their mail, they found the office had moved during the night to the north end of town. Postmaster Massman claimed he received orders to make the change as a protection against fire. The angry business people sent a telegram to Washington D. C., and over 40 businesses subscribed to a fund and hired someone to deliver their mail.

Also on August 30, 1890 the Chehalis Improvement Company was created. Their objective was to establish a business center, erect brick and stone buildings, and advance the general welfare of Chehalis.

On September 22, 1890, the city of Chehalis was re-incorporated under state government. This was because of some defect in the earlier incorporation. In the fall of 1890, the St. Helens hotel was constructed, by the Chehalis Land & Timber Company. That year there was a great demand for better accommodations for the traveling public, as there were now four daily trains between Chehalis and Seattle. The company was taking advantage of the increased demand.

The hotel was three stories in height, with basement, attic and ornamental tower. The first story was of brick and those above of wood. It stood in a central location at the corner of Market and Cascade streets, and overlooked a public park. The cost of the hotel was approximately $30,000. It was the finest hotel between Portland and Tacoma. The hotel opened on May 12, 1891 and was replaced in 1917. This building was a part of the Improvement company's plan to shift the downtown core from Main Street to Market Boulevard.

On March 18, 1892, a fire broke out in Chehalis and destroyed a block of buildings on Main Street, between Front Street and Chehalis Avenue, opposite the Chehalis hotel, which occupied a full block. The buildings destroyed were all wooden structures, with the exception of the Urquhart building, the second floor of which had been converted into a Good Templars lodge room. Chehalis rapidly recovered and the wooden structures were replaced by a 2 story brick building, a brick store building built by C. W. Maynard, and Brunswig & Co's. 2 story brick building.

On October 6, 1893, Laura Gordon was married at Chehalis. The wedding cake was made 3 years prior by herself and 3 others. They made a pact that the first one to get married got the cake. Of course the cake was just as good as when it was made, and as palatable as only wedding cakes can be.

In the spring of 1895, Chehalis was enjoying increased business from the farmers. This increase was because the business interests of town invested in good roads and there were over 40 miles of plank roads leading into Chehalis from different points. 

On October 18, 1895, the Chehalis society became agitated over the action of its school board prohibiting teachers under contract with the district from dancing or playing cards.

In the early 1890's, the village of Forest was established when a store opened in a residence built in the 1880's. On November 16, 1896 a post office was established inside the store. The village was named after Chehalis school teacher John T. Forest and is located on the Pacific Highway 7 miles southeast of Chehalis at the northeast end of Marcel Bernier's claim. The post office operated from November 16, 1896 to March 31, 1934. The store closed in the 1990's and today it is once again a private home.

Reform School

On April 11, 1890 House Bill 157 was approved establishing a State Reform School at Chehalis. The school was for the keeping and reformatory training of all youths between the ages of 8 and 18 who reside in the state.

On June 6, 1890 the Olympia Washington Standard reprinted a letter of disapproval from the Montesano Vidette that was sent in by a jealous resident. It seems this citizen from Montesano did not like the fact that Olympia was getting all sorts of improvements that were funded by the newly created State of Washington. He felt that they should take the good with the bad and have the reform school located in Olympia instead of building it at Chehalis. He wrote that;

"We are informed that Lewis county is to have a reform school. This is a serious mistake! It should be in Olympia, by all means! The present capital should not go slighted, nor her pristine glory and enterprise go unrewarded. She has had the land office; she wants the capital, a government building, and the government to make a harbor out of mud flats. Olympia is willing to "accept" anything else that is thrust upon her. Yes Olympia should have the reform school. Heaven knows that if there is a town in the state that needs such an institution, Olympia is the place!"

On August 19, 1890 the contract for the construction of 2 residences and a boarding house for the State Reform School was awarded to Christopher Kuppler of Seattle for the sum of $14,358. The buildings were to be completed in 100 days from the contract signing. The first boys to be sent to the school were from Seattle on June 26, 1891.

On June 27, 1893, the Dalles Daily Chronicle printed an article about an unruly young girl; "A striking case of youthful depravity has come to light in a 14 year old girl from Tacoma, who is pungently described by her mother as a "holy terror." In applying for an order committing her to the reform school at Chehalis the mother told the court that her daughter had been sent to the House of the Good Shepherd at Seattle, to a convent in Portland, to a boarding school in Chehalis and from all these places she had run away."

"Just before taking her seat after a serious talk from the judge, the girl astounded his honor by exclaiming in a saucy manner: 'I will be just as mean at the reform school as I can, and when I come out I will be ten times meaner.' Reform in such a case is a very difficult matter and would have been better commenced before the girl was born."

In the summer of 1895 there were 130 boys and 30 girls at the reform school. They were divided up in squads and put to work on the 75 acre farm and in the tailor shop, laundry, dining room and kitchen. Part of the time was occupied in school, part in labor, and part at play.

At first, both girls and boys were housed at Chehalis, although the boys and girls were kept strictly separate and were not allowed to associate or even speak to each other. In 1912, the population of girls became larger than the boys, Governor Lister then appointed a commission to look for a site to build a separate institution for the girls, which was built at Grand Mound.

Both these reform schools are still in operation today.

The Chehalis Desperado

On November 16, 1893, Lewis County Sheriff John Barnett left the Dalles with a noted desperado that was captured there by Sheriff Phirman and Marshal Maloney. His name was Jack Renfrow, alias Lew Spencer, alias J. Hamilton, who was wanted on a charge of adultery, having separated a wife from her husband in Chehalis and living with her for 3 years. It was reported that he was also guilty of committing murder in Missouri. 

He was caught at the Dalles in a clever way. Sheriff Phirman had earlier received word from Sheriff Barnett that a man named Renfrow or Spencer would ask for a receipt from the post office for a registered letter sent to Fred Weigle, a Chehalis resident, and the deputy had asked Postmaster Nolan to watch for such a party. Soon Mr. O. E. Scott, a farmer living near the Dalles came in and asked for any mail for a man named Lee Spencer, who he said worked for him. 

He was accompanied by another man, and the postmaster correctly surmised that the other man was Spencer. As soon as they went out Postmaster Nolan asked Orla Connelly, a young boy, who worked at the store, to follow the man, pointing him out, while he went for the officers. Orla followed the man and soon the Sheriff and Marshall arrested him. They then telegraphed Sheriff Barnett. 

The prisoner denied his identity, but Sheriff Phirman after a careful search found a receipt for a registered letter just given by Postmaster Nolan, tucked away in the lining of his pocketbook, giving Phirman the confidence he had his man. When Sheriff Barnett arrived, he at once identified him and though the prisoner continued to deny his identity, it was to no avail, and before leaving he broke down and said he was caught fair and square.

Chehalis at the Beginning of the Twentieth Century

At the beginning of 1900 some of the churches and businesses in Chehalis were; N. Hansen's Livery, feed and sale stable and baggage transfer. Their phone number was 59, 3 rings. Next was the Central Hotel with Moses Hoyt proprietor. They were advertised as the best $1 a day house. Then the Academy of the Holy Rosary, under the charge of the Sisters of St. Dominic. The Chehalis convenience store was the Jones Bros., where they sold confectionery, cigars, smoking supplies, fruits, etc.

The Saunders' Bros., continued the operations of their livery, feed and sale stables; Horten, Haskell & Co. operated the Chehalis Flouring Mills who sold flour, feed and millstuff. J, H. Huber was the leading merchant tailor who had a shop on Chehalis Avenue. The Examiner, was a leading republican paper with Thomas H. Dunkley editor and Henry A. Dunkley publisher. Reynolds & Stewart, were attorneys and Henderson & Packenham, ran a butcher shop selling fresh beef, mutton, pork, poultry and fish and wild game. The only first class restaurant in Chehalis at the beginning of the 20th Century was the Delmonico.

By 1902, Chehalis was thriving and prospering again after the "Panic of 1893," and the warehouse, which the citizens built in 1873 and served as the makeshift depot until 1882, was moved back from the right-of-way and sat unused.

In 1912, the Northern Pacific built an elaborate mission revival style depot that served the city of Chehalis for the next 60 years. In 1972, the Burlington Northern Railroad made plans to close down the depot and have it demolished. After a successful campaign by the citizens of Chehalis, the depot was saved and added to the National Historic Register and then converted into the Lewis County Historical Museum.

Chehalis Today

Chehalis today is the sister city to Centralia and together both towns are the heart of the valley. One of the main tourist attractions in the city besides the County Museum at the depot, is the steam train ride that can be found at the Chehalis-Centralia Railroad & Museum that offers coach and dinner train service. The 13-mile round trip excursion to Milburn, glides through beautiful views of wooded forests, old farmsteads, country homes, and tranquil nature sites. They also have holiday trains and even a murder mystery ride.

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Sources;

Pioneer Reminiscences of Puget Sound - Ezra Meeker, 1905

Washington West of the Cascades - Herbert Hunt & Floyd Kaylor, 1917

Illustrated History of the State of Washington - Rev. H. K. Hines, 1893

The Coast - Honor Wilhelm, 1902

Centralia the First Fifty Years - Herndon Smith, 1942