History of Olympia
By Curt Cunningham

Bus-chut-hwud

Long before the city of Olympia was founded in 1850, the area was home to the "Stehtsasamish." They are also known as Statca'sabsh. The Nisqually, who they are related to, called them Steh-chass. Their principle villages were along the shores of Budd's Inlet. Their main village was at Tumwater falls. The village of Bus-chut-hwud was located near 4th Avenue and Columbia Street in downtown Olympia. When Sylvester and Smith arrived, there was a bustling village of hundreds of people going about their business. The Steh-chass lived in huts made from cedar planks that would be located along the shoreline. The beaches would be lined with canoes.

Other tribes who lived in the south Puget Sound area were the Sahehwamish or Sahe'wabsh, who resided on Shelton Inlet. Their main settlement was called Sahe'wabsh, and was located at Arcadia. Another Sahehwamish village was opposite the town of Shelton. The Skwayaithlhabsh, lived on Eld's Inlet. The Tapi'ksdabsh, had its main settlement on Totten Inlet below Oyster Bay. And the Tutse'tcakl, lived at the head of Henderson Inlet near the mouth of Woodland creek. The descendants of these bands today are members of the Squaxin Island Tribe, who are known as the "People of the Water."

During the warm summer months, people would be coming and going in canoes all the time, while many would be hanging around the beach. Women would be drying clams or doing their daily chores, as dogs would be barking at them for scraps of meat or running around playing with the children. The village would have frequent visitors from the greater Puget Sound area who came to trade or to see relatives. Chief Sealth of the Duwamish once came to visit from Elliot bay and wintered with about 250 of his people near the village of Bus-chut-hwud. Today this camp would be just north of State Street and Columbia Avenue.

On October 20, 1846, Edmund Sylvester and Levi Smith arrived at the village of Bus-chut-hwud and each took a claim of 320 acres. Smith's claim took over the entire peninsula which included the village of Bus-chut-hwud. Sylvester would take his claim on the west edge of Chambers prairie.

Smith built his cabin and enclosed about 2 acres for his livestock and a vegetable garden. This cabin would be located today at the intersection of Capitol Way and Olympia Avenue. Smith co-existed with the Steh-chass and traded with them regularly. Sadly the Steh-chass would eventually be driven from their homes never to return.

Smithfield is Founded

There was a mutual agreement between Smith and Sylvester, that each should own a half interest in each others land, and in case of a death, the survivor would own both claims. They planned to create a town on Smith’s claim. Originally, they came up with the name "Smithster," which was a combination of their last names. Smithster didn't take and the place became known as "Smithfield." Smith was a bachelor and was subject to attacks of epilepsy. These attacks would make him depressed and he would remain alone in his cabin for days on end.

In the winter of 1846, Charles H. Eaton, Nathan Eaton, Alonzo Marion Poe, Daniel D. Kinsey and Antonio B. Rabbeson, arrived and took claims in the general area near Smithfield. The Eaton's took claims on Chambers prairie. Rabbeson went south to Plumb. In 1849, Charles Eaton traveled to California to dig for gold, but returned later that year to find his claim had been jumped. He then took another claim on what was known as Eaton's prairie, located about 9 miles southeast of Olympia. Today it is called Western Junction.

In January of 1847, the population of the little settlements of Tumwater and Smithfield increased with the arrival of Samuel Cool, A. J. Moore, Benjamin Gordon, Leander C. Wallace, Thomas W. Glasgow, Samuel Hancock, and the Davis brothers. In March of 1847, William and Elisha Packwood arrived with their familys and took a claim on the Nisqually Bottom near the mouth of the Nisqually river.

In July of 1847, Reverend Pascal Ricard, with a party of 9 missionaries, established St. Joseph’s Mission, on the east side of Budd’s Inlet, about a mile and a half north of Olympia. There was a Steh-chass village just below where the mission was built and the area had been a gathering place for the tribes of the region. The priests opened a school for the education of the Steh-chass, and the young children were very interested in the lessons of the priests.

Land was then cleared for vegetable and flower gardens, and many fruit trees were planted. The kind black robed Fathers, were sympathetic and helpful to the Steh-chass, and they were able to win their respect and trust. Because the Priests had such a good relationship with them, they lived in safety during the War of 1855. The mission would last for 12 years, and today it is known as Priest Point Park.

The first American company on Puget Sound was founded in August of 1847, when Jesse Ferguson, Michael Simmons, Frank Shaw, Edmund Sylvester, Antonio B. Rabbeson, Gabriel Jones, A. D. Carnefix and John Kindred formed a lumber company and built a sawmill at Tumwater. They named this new partnership, the Puget Sound Milling Company.

In 1848, Levi Smith, who was very much respected by the community, was elected as a representative for Lewis county in the new Oregon Territorial Legislature. (At the time Olympia was in Lewis county) Before he could take his office, he drowned when his canoe overturned during an epileptic seizure while traveling to Tumwater. The death of Smith made Sylvester, the sole owner of Smithfield. Sylvester then moved into Smith’s cabin and afterwards, built the first log hotel. It was 16 feet x 24 feet with 2 rooms and was named the Olympia Hotel.

The hotel was divided into two rooms, one being the kitchen and dining-room, and the other the bedroom of the proprietor, Mr. Sylvester. Guests were accommodated with bunks in the attic, and the mail carrier by special grace of the proprietor was allowed to sleep on the floor of the dining-room. The furniture was equally primitive, consisting of a deal table, and pine blocks of a convenient height for seats.

In June of 1848, Samuel Hancock took a claim on the west side of Budd's Inlet and built a warehouse and wharf. Also during the summer of 1848, Jesse Ferguson, who owned a grain cradle, thought up the idea of making a buck for himself by cutting grain for the French settlers on the Cowlitz prairie. Accompanied A. B. Rabbeson, they set out on the trail for the Cowlitz farm, with the cradle on Ferguson's shoulder. The Frenchmen did not like the idea of replacing the sickle with some newfangled contraption made by an American, but when Jesse showed them how much more grain he could lay down with it, they came to their senses, and the American's made a few dollars for their troubles.

The Gold Rush of 1849

In the summer of 1849, news of gold being found in California reached the settlements along the Sound causing great excitement. Rumors were flying around saying that fabulous fortunes could be made in the "Golden State." Almost every able bodied person dropped everything and stampeded to California. The loss of so many settlers from the Oregon Territory plunged it into an economic depression. All the mills closed down for lack of workers, and many farmers abandoned their claims and headed south. Others left their families and their crops, and when they failed to return later in the season to harvest them, the wives and children would have to do the work.

Those that found El Dorado and returned to Puget Sound, no longer cared for the undesirable labor of the mill and farm. No new settlers came to Smithfield that year, and no new houses were built. Food became scarce and all produce was bought at exorbitant prices. In the excitement caused by the continued discoveries of gold in the south, desire to settle in the vast wilderness of Puget Sound disappeared, and for years the country was almost out of the collective memory of the nation. Although growth slowly continued, it still grew. The solid pioneers of the settlements, who had not been infected by the gold fever, and still had faith in God and the future, remained and continued their struggle.

Some of the prospectors did fairly well, but many would return to their farms and families, without ever finding their fortune.

A brief look at Olympia's Shipping Industry of the 1850's

In January of 1850, the brig Orbit sailed up from San Francisco to Olympia. The ship was purchased by Isaac Ebey, Benjamin Shaw. Mr. Moore, John R. Jackson, and Edmund Sylvester. The Orbit was under the command of Captain William H. Dunham, and most of the crew and passengers were disappointed prospectors who couldn't find any gold. The Orbit's first cargo from Olympia was a load of piles destined for San Francisco. This voyage inaugurated the first shipping line on the Sound.

In 1904, Captain John G. Parker of Parker & Coulter, gave his account of the shipping business at Olympia in 1853, the year he arrived in town. He said that; "The brig George W. Kendall was sailing on the route between Olympia and San Francisco. A. B. Gove was master (a brother-in-law of Judge Elwood Evans), and it did a profitable business in spars, shingles, piling and square timbers. Later the Kendall was followed by the bark Sarah Warren, with Captain Warren Gove at the helm. A weekly mail service, by horseback and canoe, from the Columbia river to Olympia was first established in 1852 by Benjamin Yantis & Antonio Rabbeson. Local transportation on the Sound was carried by canoes and sail boats. The people of Olympia were first regularly served by the sloop Sarah Stone, with Captain Thomas Slater at the helm, it plied between Olympia, Victoria, Bellingham bay and way landings."

Smithfield becomes Olympia

On January 12, 1850, Sylvester platted out a town, giving it the name of Olympia at the suggestion of Charles Hart Smith of the firm of Simmons & Smith. Smith had established a store that summer near the corner of First and Main streets. The town was named for the beautiful snow-capped Olympic mountains, which constituted the background of the glorious scenery that was enjoyed by the citizens on every clear day. Sylvester then donated some blocks of land for a public square, a school, a customs house and an additional 12 acres for the Capitol grounds. The area around Chinook Street, now called Columbia Street, which once was the home of the Steh-chass people, was now a "Boston" village of several log buildings. "Boston" is the Chinook Jargon term for American.

In the fall of 1851, George A. Barnes opened a store at Smithfield with a general assortment of merchandise. This marked a new era in the commerce of Puget Sound, which was then confined to this growing mart at the head of this great inland sea. A short time afterwards, Parker, Coulter & Co., A. J. Moses, L. Bettman, Goldman & Rosenblatt and Louisson & Co., established stores, a large proportion of their trade being derived from the Squaxin and Nisqually who came to town in their canoes.

In 1851, a resident gave an account of life in Olympia; "Edmund Sylvester, the town proprietor, a native of Maine, has recently erected a dwelling. Beside it stands the old log cabin, the first house built upon the old town site. Dr. Lansdale has a little shanty east of it on a back street, where he dispenses calomel and occasionally justice, for the worthy doctor has been selected by his fellow citizens as justice of the peace." 

"I recently witnessed a trial before him in which Captain Crosby and Colonel M. T. Simmons were parties, growing out of a question of title to or possession of, the Tumwater claim. It originally was taken by Simmons in 1845, but purchased by Crosby In 1849. J. B. Chapman, Esq., of Steilacoom, was attorney for Crosby, Colonel Simmons being represented by Daniel R. Bigelow, Esq., of Massachusetts, who crossed the plains this last season and arrived in Olympia in the schooner Exact from Portland, on a voyage to Queen Charlotte's Island, where gold is supposed to exist in large quantities."

"Mr. Bigelow is a retiring, modest man, but seems to understand his profession well, and though his old and unscrupulous antagonist attempted to badger and bully him, yet he held his own with imperturbable good temper. Bigelow had the grammar and good English on his side, anyhow. Quincy A. Brooks, Esq., now employed in the Custom House, is another attorney, just arrived. He has on several occasions helped us while away these dreadfully long nights of this northern latitude by his admirable playing on the violin, of which he is a master." 

"It really seems to me that, should he fail to convince a jury by his oratory, he might, by leave of the court, prove irresistible with his fiddle. Truly, he draws a fine bow. Dr. D. S. Maynard, hailing from Ohio, like his fellow doctor Lansdale, with the melancholy experience that there is no demand for "pills," has taken to store keeping, in a little shanty on Main street about a hundred yards south of the Custom House where he offers great inducements to his very limited supply of purchasers."

"Captain Plummer of the brig John Davis, peddles out goods and small wares on the beach to the Indians or whoever else may want them. He is a Yankee trader, embodying all those peculiarities which the word is intended to convey by Southern and Western men. Of course Plummer makes money, by underselling the Olympia storekeepers, and hence they justly inquire, What's the use of a Custom House here, without such an invasion of our rights can be put an end to?" 

"Such was the town of Olympia when the Custom House was located here by virtue of the act of Congress approved February 14, 1851, creating the collection district of Puget Sound and establishing Olympia as a port of entry.'" For more information about the customs house, see the link on the side bar.

In July of 1851 the first mail route to Olympia was established with weekly service, by Antonio B. Rabbeson.

In 1852, Olympia was growing rapidly as new businesses began to spout up. Some of these new businesses were; the Kendall Company, which owned a general store, the Olympia Bakery and Beef Market, which was owned by Charles Weed & Jared Hurd; and Joseph Tebeau who began running a stable which rented horses for travelers going between Olympia and the Cowlitz Landing.

The first school opened in 1852 and was taught by E. A. Bradford. In 1872, the school was replaced by the post office. School was then moved to the building which was formally occupied by A. J. Baldwin's Blacksmith shop and was taught by Andrew W. Moore. Later the school was held in the cooper shop near the brewery by Bernard Cornelius.

In March of, 1853, the bridge over the Deschutes river, between the two falls, was completed. This bridge connected Tumwater to Olympia and the improvement was very much appreciated by the farming community, that was located on the south side of the river. This new bridge was of great importance to the traveling public.

On April 16, 1853, the Olympia Hotel was remodeled and then re-opened with all the luxuries of the season. It was known as the "Hall for travelers." They hired a "Yankee" cook and assured the public that the "inner man" could always be satisfied at this house.

In the summer of 1853, partners Henry V. Coulter and Captain John G. Parker, who had a general store in Olympia, began running an express coach between Monticello and Olympia. They would bring in people, packages and newspapers. Customers in Olympia could rent horses from Joseph Tebeau by placing the order at their store. Parker and Coulter would also transport express freight and passengers on vessels to all points on Puget Sound.

On November 19, 1853, a resident of Olympia wrote about life in the new settlement. He said that; "items were becoming scarce as small change in the quiet little village. The mail came 'now and then,' like the visits of imaginary angels. Politics were at a stand still, awaiting the arrival of the governor. J. Williams and his brother Charles E. Williams just opened a store after they had received a shipment of goods. At the store of Bettman & Brand, they were offering at great bargains, the new stock they just received."

"Chips and Ethridge were building houses on the new and improved 'rat-plan,' (which the newspaper thought meant that rats couldn't come in.) 'Charley' Weed opened a public house for the weary traveler, which was located at the 'Point' and was recently vacated by Dr. Johnson. C. Turner was repairing watches and jewelry, on short notice, and for reasonable terms. P. Keach of Steilacoom formed a partnership that sold groceries, liquor, dry goods and hardware. Captain Warren Gove was making regular trips between Olympia, Steilacoom, and Seattle on the steamer Fairy. All the carpenters in town were busy erecting buildings which gave evidence of substantial growth and  rapid development of the embryo town."

In 1854, A. B. Stewart, who had retired from the Adams Transportation Company, started up a regular package and letter express service between Olympia and Portland, connecting with his old employer, Adams & Co. at Portland. Stewart would make this trip every week for a few years bringing in newspapers and packages weeks before the regular mail would arrive. On Sunday, June 24, 1854, Stewart arrived in Olympia after a record time of 48 hours.

During April of 1854, the road between Tumwater and Olympia was cleared of the larger stumps and widened to 60 feet, and a new foot bridge was completed across the flats connecting Olympia with the east side, which will become 4th Avenue.

The East bay of Budd's Inlet originally extended as far south as Union Avenue, and the only way to reach the east side was to take a canoe at high tide, or walk across the mud flats. On October 14, 1854, the contract for the building of a bridge capable of carrying wagons across the east bay was awarded by the Sheriff, to J. L. Perkins of Olympia. The cost of the bridge was $1,550 with the county covering $500 of the cost, and a private subscription would be responsible for the remainder.

The bridge was 360 feet long and 16 feet wide with about 1/3 of it built over piles, and the remainder over substantial bents, with secure mud sills, that were planked on each side, 3 feet high, and used as banisters. The bridge deck was covered with 2.5 inch planks and was constructed 3 feet above high tide. The bridge was completed around December 25, 1854.

Giddings' Wharf

The mud flats to the north of Olympia were a hindrance to vessels coming up to the business part of the town. Edward Giddings Jr. who owned the mud flats north of town constructed a pile driver in the summer of 1854 to build a wharf to deep water. The citizens felt confident that this dock would ensure the rapid growth of the town and would give Olympia a position as the "Great emporium on the Sound" they believed was destined to come. 

On July 22, 1854, the pile driver was completed and the next day began building a wharf leading north from Main Street over the mud flats to deep water. The dock was only 300 feet long and could only be reached by ships at high tide. It became known as Giddings' wharf.

Olympia in 1854

The Pioneer and Democrat said that before the summer of 1854, those who have had an earlier acquaintance with Olympia would now scarcely recognize the place from any previous recollection. This was in consequence of the numerous large and substantial buildings which occupied the place where once was "rugged desolation," and the “relief " which had been consequent on the removal of a heavy forest of fir and cedar within its environs.

On Saturday November 4, 1854 the paper gave a description of Olympia; "During the last summer and fall, a number of substantial and tasty dwelling and business houses have been erected, and are now under vigorous process of contraction amongst which we we might refer to the capacious and well appointed building of Mr. Lewis Ensign, designed as a portion of the Washington Hotel—a store house, and in which there is an excellent and capacious hall, capable of accommodating a party of hundreds."

"The Washington Hotel may now safely be assumed to he the largest and best arranged within the Territory. Mr. William Cock, of the Pacific House, has also made a valuable addition to his excellent Hotel, those two being as yet the only public houses in Olympia. Mr. Thomas Johnson, who on the corner of First and Main streets has recently erected a store and dwelling house, which advantageously relieves the disagreeable vacuum heretofore so objectionable in that direction."

"On the corner of Main and Third streets, Mr. John G. Parker, is in the process of erecting a large store house nearly opposite of which Mr. J. L. Perkins, who has about completed the frame work for a tastily appointed saloon. On the corner of Main and 4th streets, brothers. J. & Charles E. Williams have commenced the erection of a store house, nearly opposite of which, the Territorial Librarian, B. F. Kendall, Esq., has completed suitable rooms for the Library, and further to the southward, on Main street, Mr. Gove, of the Kendall Company, is building an exceedingly neat dwelling house. Further along on the same street, Daniel R. Bigelow, Esq., has completed the erection of a law office, and several other buildings in its vicinity are under way of completion."

"The Masonic Hall, on the ground floor of which, the Legislative Assembly will meet at the ensuing session, is being finished with rapidity, and the best commentary we can offer as to the onward tendency of improvements around us, is, that our carpenters are constantly and actively employed in completing building contracts. Over one-half of the timber for the erection of the bridge over the eastern stretch, of Budd's Inlet, connecting Olympia with the mainland eastward, is on the ground, and workmen are employed, busily in furthering the work."

"An embankment is about to be run around the tide prairie, for the object of which, sufficient means have been subscribed to effectually guard against the approach of high water within certain limits. Mr. Edward Giddings, jr., is making active preparation for the further extension of his wharf, and for the building of business houses on the mud flats, north of Olympia; and over most of the road in the direction of the Masonic Hall, a substantial sidewalk is about to be completed through private subscription."

"All our mechanic shops are busily engaged in custom work, and all things by which give evidence of a healthy state of steady, progressive improvement. Our farmers are preparing to harvest extensive crops, the coming season, and will no doubt afford sufficient bread-stuff's for the sustenance of the people with proper distribution the coming year."

Governor Stevens Arrives

December of 1854 is when Governor Isaac Stevens arrived at Olympia after a long arduous journey across the country with his family. Hazard Stevens, the Governor's son wrote about their travels, and the following is when they arrived at Olympia; “It was a dreary dark December day. It had rained considerably. The road from Tumwater to Olympia was ankle deep in mud and thrided a dense forest with a narrow track. With expectations raised at the idea of seeing the Capital and chief town of the Territory, the weary travelers toiled up a small hill in the edge of the timber, reached the summit and eagerly looked to see the new metropolis."

"Their hearts sank with bitter disappointment as they surveyed the dismal and forlorn scene before them. A low, flat neck of land, running into the bay, down it stretched the narrow, muddy track, winding among the stumps, which stood thickly on either side, and twenty small wooden houses bordered the road, while in back of them on the left and next to the shore were a number of Steh-chass lodges, with canoes drawn up on the beach, with people and dogs lounging about. The little hill mentioned by Stevens is where the Masonic Temple now stands, opposite the Federal building."

"The site of the Steh-chass camp is now Columbia Street, between Third and Fourth. At the time, there were only one or two buildings south of Sixth Street. The public square was a tangle of fallen timber, and Main Street terminated in Giddings’ wharf, which was left high and dry at low tides."

War of 1855

During the war of 1855, the citizens of Olympia had a blockhouse built in the public square where the residents lived off and on for about 22 months until the hostilities ended. In 1872 the New Northwest printed a story about the early history of Olympia, and this is what they said about the war; "The town was for a short time in a state of siege. An attack was expected at any minute and the most intense excitement prevailed."

"A stockade or plank fence, about 15 feet high, was built the whole length of 4th Avenue, with bastions at the water's edge. At the junction of Main and 4th, a cannon was placed in position to repel any assault on the fort. Arms and ammunition were distributed, and men, women, and children were on alert against surprise. The revenue cutter Jo Lane, guarded the harbor. The Jo Lane is where they obtained the cannon and ammunition to equip their crude defenses. However the danger quickly passed, as the hostilities had moved on from the immediate vicinity of the settlements."

The psychological effects after the war would linger on for a few years. Many settlers were too frightened to remain and gave up their claims. Some traveled back east, though most moved south to the Willamette valley. The war was deadly for the early settlers as they had suffered casualties, but the war was far more devastating to the people who had been living in the area for thousands of years. Not only did they suffer greater losses, they would also lose their homeland. 

Michael Simmons, became the Indian agent for the South Sound area, and he ordered all the tribes under his jurisdiction to move to the interment camps on Squaxin and Fox islands. This is when all the tribal villages disappeared. The residents of Bus-chut-hwud could no longer call the peninsula their home. By the fall of 1855, Michael T. Simmons had placed 460 people on Squaxin island and 1,200 on Fox island. Many of these displaced people who were forced to the internment camps became sick and died. 

The Gold Rush of 1858

In 1858, gold was discovered on the Fraser river in British Columbia. News of the find created great excitement and a great rush northward ensued. The towns of Seattle, Steilacoom, Port Townsend and Olympia, were filled to capacity with miners and their pack animals who were arriving and departing daily.

The British wanted to control the flow of miners coming into their territory and said that everyone who was seeking gold in Canada had to travel through Victoria and purchase a mining license. This was because there were no other places to purchase the license at first. They also said that all supplies must be bought from the Hudson's Bay Company (HBC). At first everyone jumped onto anything that floated and traveled to Victoria, but later people realized that the authorities were powerless to enforce the license requirement and many skipped going to Victoria.

Whatcom, was a small village located on Bellingham Bay, that would evolve into the city of Bellingham. Whatcom was the closest American port to the gold fields on the Fraser river. Many miners would come down the river from their claims and travel to Whatcom instead of Victoria to re-supply because they did not want to buy from the British. Their was no enforcement of the act as the HBC did not have the resources or manpower to control the flow of traffic. Tens of thousands of prospectors invaded Canada during the rush.

Olympia, Steilacoom and Seattle had sold all their surplus supplies to the merchants up in Whatcom. Whatcom was booming with all the activity, and these merchants began to discuss building their own trail to the Fraser river in open defiance of the British law. They hired retired captain, W.W. De Lacy to survey and build a pack trail leading from their village to the golden river. Over 10,000 people heard about this new route and quickly rushed to Whatcom before the trail was finished. Construction of the trail would become delayed forcing thousands to burn up supplies waiting for the path to open. As they ran out of food and money, clams would be the only meal.

News of the delay reached the settlements on the Sound, which switched the tide of migration toward Yakima pass. Naches pass was still too dangerous to cross as it led directly into Yakama territory. Many came up from the Dalles and Walla Walla and had to trespass through the Yakama's territory, and not all made it through alive. Naturally Seattle, Steilacoom and Olympia wanted in on this bonanza of supplying the miners, and the newspapers began the call for the reopening of Yakima pass. During the War of 1855 travel came to a halt and the trails fell into disrepair from lack of use.

As more and more miners flocked to Puget Sound, the already limited supplies that were available were quickly sold out. This shortage of goods caused many to delay their journey until more supplies could reach them. All the hotels would be continuously full, and many farmers hosted a prospector or 2 for a small fee. After supplies arrived on the sailing ships, everyone would flood the streets buying what they needed. The next day, not a soul could be seen in town.

Overland prospectors who began from Seattle, Steilacoom and Olympia, all used the Cedar River Trail to reach Yakima pass. Miners from Olympia and Steilacoom, took Byrd's Mill road to Puyallup. From there they took a trail to the confluence of the Green and White rivers near Auburn, there they followed another trail to Covington and then to Jenkins prairie, which is located near Maple Valley. Prospectors from Seattle would take the Old Beach Road to Renton in the dry months. This road followed the Duwamish river south to Tukwila, and then around the hill into Renton. During the wetter times they would take the Old Ridge Road that ran over Beacon hill and Skyway into Renton.

The Ridge Road followed the Old Fort Tilton Military Road from Seattle to Renton, where it meets the Cedar River Trail. Miners would follow this trail up the hill and then through Cascade-Fairwood toward Jenkins prairie at Maple Valley. At Jenkins prairie the Seattle miners met the Olympia and Steilacoom miners, who for safety, banded together for the trip over Yakima pass. The Cedar River Trail terminated at Rattlesnake prairie (now a lake) near North Bend. From there they took the trail over Yakima pass. Snoqualmie pass was at the time just a foot trail due to the many fallen trees which made that trail impassible by 4-legged animals. When the prospectors reached Cle Elum, they turned north to cross over Blewett pass, and continued north toward Fort Okanogan. From there they took the HBC trail into British Columbia.

By August of 1858 dozens of steamships, schooners, brigs and barks, filled with miners from San Francisco were landing at the ports from Olympia to Victoria. Every vessel returning to San Francisco was crowded with almost as many disappointed and broke gold seekers. As the excitement of the gold rush faded years later, so did the steamers that plied the Fraser river. The Olympia Pioneer and Democrat accused the steamship companies of being a tad greedy and insensitive. They said;

“It would seem that the steamer companies have combined and determined that having enjoyed a golden harvest in conveying passengers from California as far up Fraser river as they dared to venture getting all their cash, that they now permit them to die there of starvation and exposure, unless they should be fortunate enough to succeed in 'panning out' enough of the 'needful' to pay their passage back. Very benevolent 'institutions' are these steamboat companies.”

Olympia becomes a City

By 1859, Olympia had grown substantially and many new buildings had been constructed. Buildings were now built for the purpose of living rather than staying. One of these new structures was a cottage erected by George A. Barnes on the corner of Fourth and Jefferson streets. The building was designed by architect James Taylor and had a beautiful banister fence which was lined with a row of 30 maple trees that stood on the north and west of his property.

Passing westward from the cottage of Mr. Barnes, was the dwelling of D. Phillips. Immediately west of him, at the southwest corner of Main and Fourth streets, was the new Saddle and Harness factory which was owned by William Wright. The front was designed by architect A. A. Bennett, who with G. C. Blankenship, built the beautiful establishment. On Main street, the principle feature was the building purchased by Henry Winsor. The old tin shop which stood at the northwest corner of Third and Main streets had been moved, immediately south of the Olympia Market. 

The two buildings adjoining, the first Executive office and office of the Secretary, had been renovated, and was occupied by Mr. O'Shaughnessy, the proprietor of the Puget Sound Market, and in the other, a barber shop and bath house which was kept by George W. Lee. At the corner, fronting Main street, Mr. Winsor erected a model building of mammoth dimensions. It was 100 feet long and 40 feet wide and housed his livery stable and stage office. The front of Winsor's building was massive and beautifully decorated. The building was designed by A. A. Bennett.

Henry Winsor was one of Olympia's most enterprising citizens, and his promptness and accommodating manner had won him golden opinions from the traveling public. (In the fall of 1888, 25 years later, an Olympia fossil said that the old sign in front of Foster & Laberee's livery stable that read; "U. S. Mail Stage Line" was fixed to the front of the main building when Henry Winsor was the boss of the road.)

Going west on Third street was the Wagon and Buggy factory owned by John L. Clark, and was a very large fine looking two story building. The improvements of Main and Fourth streets, and the opening of several other businesses on the less used streets, had turned Olympia into a city.

From the wharf, at the north end of the capitol, wooden sidewalks were constructed and it was no longer necessary for the people, through the long and dark nights of the rainy season, to keep hunkered down in their homes because of the danger and inconvenience, not to say impossibility, of night walking on the streets of Olympia in 1859.

The sidewalks were a great nuisance before the improvement was made, and to travel in the mud and water was preferable to the narrow and irregular paths that were previously used. The city instituted a small municipal tax and the result was that Main and Fourth streets, the principal thoroughfares, were now much better with sidewalks that were now "pleasant for the promenade." The city also built three cisterns in the thickly settled portion of town as a security against fire. All of this was accomplished without the town taxing its citizens to the extent allowed by the charter, and it all took place in little over half a year.

More and more sailing ships began to call at Olympia and the town remained a busy place. The 1860's brought the completion of the Military road and the establishment of more stage lines bringing more people to the sound. The 1860's is when the steamers began to ply the Cowlitz river to the landing. This increased travel through the Cowlitz Corridor, and almost all of this traffic was heading to Olympia. On February 2, 1861, Isaac Wood and his 2 sons founded the Olympia Brewery on 5th Street west of Main.

But what really made Olympia a city was on March 21, 1861 when the city council passed and ordinance to restrain swine from running at large. No more could pigs run free tearing up gardens and wallowing in mud holes in the streets. The owners of the free roaming bacon would now be held liable for property damage. If anyone caught a pig between the Eastside of Budd's Inlet and north of Union Street to the eastern boundary of Olympia, they would turn it over to the city who would then sell it. If the owner could prove the animal was theirs, they could reclaim it after paying fees and damages if there was any.

Ollapod arrives in Olympia

In the 1860's, the Seattle Gazette had hired a correspondent who wrote under the name of Olla Pori'da. The word means; Odds and ends, or a mixture of scraps. Used figuratively, it means an incongruous mixture, a miscellaneous collection of any kind, a medley. Ollapod means; An apothecary, always trying to say a witty thing, and looking for wit in the conversation of others. 

On January 9, 1864, Ollapod, traveled on the steamer Eliza Anderson for a visit to Olympia to see how the city was progressing. When the Olympians heard that Ollapod was on his way, a large group assembled on the wharf to receive him. Most were hotel keepers that carried "bills of fare" in their hands, which induced visions of high living in the mind of Olla pod, but alas, they were last years bills.

Particular attention was paid to him by a high county official with a tin tube under his arm and a Colt in his pocket, who finally escorted him into town and gave him the freedom of the city. Ollapod visited the Washington Hotel, a large commodious establishment where people feed and sleep. He then paid a visit to Becky at the Pacific House, (Rebecca Howard, was of African ancestry) where she kept plenty of good grub and nice beds, in one of which he tried to sleep, but failed, for reasons only a certain gray-bearded "judge" could supply.

The next day Ollapod visited Joe Kellett's restaurant and said he was pleased with the meal. The "pioneer jeweler of Olympia" Andrew J. Burr told him that he had the biggest peanuts at the Capital. Ollapod told Burr there were some "hard" nuts in town, and he hoped the devil might crack'em.

Judge Sargent showed him a lot of school books which were said to be of the most approved curriculum, but Ollapod feared the people wouldn't believe the tale unless they see it in the papers. He was then told that several women were waiting on the Legislature to get permission to leave their husbands. The Legislative Council said that as parties go courting to get married, they must go courting to get unmarried.

Ollapod was pleased to see so many new improvements since his last visit to the Capitol. They had a wharf set on piles, that stretched far out across the mudflats to deep water. It was said that the worms would finish it off in due course of a few months. There were 2 new buildings recently constructed. One was for necessary purposes, and the other to "keep the municipal hay-rack out of the wet."

Returning to his home at the "head of navigation," as he put it, Ollapod passed through the "wilderness" of Steilacoom, and saw 3 wildmen and a cow, while his friend, Charles Prosch was in his sanctum, composing the biggest newspaper in the Territory.

Trip to Olympia 1865

It was the summer of 1865, and the Civil War had just ended, when a traveler wrote about a trip from Portland to Olympia. On August 30, 1865, the unknown writer landed at Toledo and began the journey to the Sound; "This is the forest primeval, thick with slender fir, pine, hemlock, spruce and cedar. The ground was covered with white, yellow and purple fragrant flowers. We passed one or two rough villages; farm houses five or ten miles apart, in little grassy openings, islands of prairie in the vast, somber, silent sea of forest, filled with thousands of trees, some over 250 feet tall."

"Last evening we came through the picturesque little manufacturing hamlet of Tumwater, and a half an hour later, our wagon ride of 2 days ended at Olympia. Olympia has no daily newspaper and contains 600 people in Winter, and perhaps half that many at other times. It is a village sui generis, struggling hard against primeval nature. So far the advantage is rather with the forest, but civilization is treading sharply on the heels of barbarism and jostling it rudely aside."

"Behind the light birch canoe
The steamer rocks and raves
And city lots are staked for sale
Above old Indian graves."

"I hear the tread of pioneers
Of nations yet to be-
The first low wash of waves where soon
Shall be a human sea."

"The arterial street begins on the level shore of the smooth, shining Sound, and then climbs a low muddy hill, and plunges out of sight into the deep pine woods. The Capital is a lonely white frame building, like a warehouse, but we found the national flag floating from it, and from nearly all the neat little cottages which constitute the better dwellings."

"Olympia boasts 2 hotels. Quarters were assigned us at the Pacific House, kept by Rebecca Howard, who is the female hawk of the Territory. Her husband manages the kitchen, but Becky runs the establishment, conducts its finances, and puts money in the Howard purse."

"In the evening I strolled through the streets and watched a canoe disembark with 4 Steh-chass women, weighing it down to the waters edge and paddling away, gliding noiselessly over the unbroken wave which reflected the violet and gold of the twilight skies. At last their weird forms and stolid faces were hidden in the deep shadow of the opposite shore. What can life mean to them? What are their joys and sorrows, their fears, hopes and ambitions?"

"After dark nearly the entire population was addressed by Colfax and Broas from a mule wagon. They cheered every patriotic sentiment with great warmth, and many shed tears for our dead President. It was a strange gathering, in a strange forest village, among logs, stumps and plank sidewalks, erected to avoid the mud and deluge. But is was very stirring at the Ultima Thule, on this farthest frontier, thousands of miles from home, to find fellow countrymen and women prizing our preserved Union."

The Marshville Bridge

When Olympia was founded, the main source of transportation was a canoe. So being located at the tip of a small peninsula the settlement was easily reached, but only at high tide. As the town began to grow, accessibility by land became important. When Olympia became the Territorial capitol, the powers that be wanted the town to be assessable from all directions. At the north end of town, a 3/4 mile wharf would be built over the mud to deep water. East of Olympia, the Swantown bridge would be built across the East bay on 4th Avenue. At the south end, the Deschutes river had to be crossed and 2 bridges would be built at Tumwater. On the west side of Olympia, a bridge about 1,700 feet long would be constructed across the West bay that would become known as the Marshville bridge. The east end of this bridge began 100 feet west of Columbia street.

The early beginnings of the Marshville bridge was during January of 1857, when the Legislature passed an act to a appoint a board of commissioners to draft plans for the construction of a bridge across the West bay. On March 2, 1857, a meeting of the bridge commissioners convened at Olympia. The following were present; William Cock, William Rutledge Jr., Benjamin Harned, J. L. Clark, C. H. Hale, William Morrow, Edwin Marsh, William McLane, Jared Hurd, Joseph Cushman, Samuel Percival, and Elwood Evans. During the meeting the incorporation documents were read and then a committee was appointed to draft a plan and make estimates for the cost of construction. The following were selected for this committee; Joseph Cushman, Benjamin Harned, and Jared Hurd.

On May 3, 1857 another meeting of the commissioners was called. At this meeting the plans that were drafted for the construction of a bridge was accepted. On motion, the chairman was to open the books for subscriptions to raise funds for construction. The Standard said that; "The distance across the bay was about 3/8th of a mile, and the commissioners had well grounded hopes that they would be able to commence on this work early, that was of such vital advantage to the town."

On January 26, 1859. the Territorial Legislature approved an act to incorporate the Olympia Bridge Company. The purpose of the act was to construct, maintain, and manage a drawbridge across the western arm of Budd's Inlet, at Olympia, to continue for the term of twenty years from the passage of this act. The first directors, were William. W. Miller, William Rutledge Jr., Edwin Marsh, Moses Hard, William McLane, Elwood Evans, and T. F. Berry. The proposed bridge was to connect with 4th Avenue, and extend across the western arm of Budd's inlet to the most practicable point on the opposite shore.

On May 12, 1859, a notice was placed in the newspapers calling for interested persons to become stockholders in the Olympia Bridge Company. It appears that the company was not able to raise the funds needed to build the bridge and nothing else would be done for another 8 years. Though in 1862 the city council was contemplating building an iron bridge to the west side.

The earliest news I could find about the Marshville bridge was on October 12, 1867 when a notice was placed for those interested in building a bridge to the west side. On October 19, 1867, a meeting was held to create an organization to petition the county for the construction of this bridge. On December 7, 1867 the Thurston county commissioners held a meeting to discuss the propriety of an appropriation for the construction of the bridge from Olympia to the west side.

The county had appropriated some funding and construction began in the summer of 1868. On June 27, 1868, work on the Marshville bridge was progressing along as piles were being driven and capped, making them ready for planking. Edwin Marsh was also in the process of laying out a town site for suburban residences on the west side of the bay that would become known as Marshville.

On October 31, 1868, work on the Marshville bridge was delayed as funds had ran out. There was objection over the use of county money to build the city bridge. The Standard said that; "the bridge between Olympia and Marshville should be completed at once. The folly of allowing the work already done to go to ruin is apparent to everybody. Even now we are beginning to be jeered at by our neighbors down the Sound on account of the delay." The paper ended by saying that; "after all the objections against the use of public money to help build this bridge was frivolous, and that wise council will prevail."

During the fall of 1868, the ladies of Olympia decided to help out and raise some money for the construction of the bridge to resume. (not those ladies) On November 14, 1868, the ladies of Olympia and vicinity threw a large fundraising event. Tickets were $3. The floor manager was Andrew Burr and music was by Martin Lewis and others. The citizens were invited to promote their businesses. During the event there was a Firemen's parade, and later 37 guns were fired. In the evening there was a fireworks display from the partially constructed Marshville bridge, under the supervision of J. H. Cleale. On February 25, 1869, the ladies threw another party. This time it was a "Grand Ball" at the Olympic. Tickets were $5. On March 20, 1869, the Standard said that the ladies of Olympia had raised $530.25 from the parties and events they had.

On April 3, 1869 work had resumed on the Marshville bridge. The planking was progressing along and the draw was almost completed. On April 17, 1869, the planking was completed and the draw was placed in position. The Marshville bridge was completed sometime in May of 1869 for a total of $5,000.

It didn't take long for some excitement to take place on the bridge. At the end of May that year, the Multnomah county sheriff had sent a telegram from Portland to the Thurston county sheriff for him to be on the lookout for a fellow by the name of N. Weiss. Weiss had stolen some jewelry he was supposed to repair for a client. On June 5, 1869, a stranger was seen entering town from the south on foot, and after getting a bite to eat and his boot fixed, he headed for the Marshville bridge.

It was about sundown, when watchman Wallace who was with Sheriff Billings, and a dozen or so overzealous citizens, spotted Weiss out on the Marshville bridge and the chase was on! Pistols, bowie-knives, sabers, sling shots, cutlasses, helmets, brass-knuckles, and breast plates were rapidly collected. Soon a large crowd assembled and the horsemen went off in one direction and the footmen another. It wasn't long before Weiss was caught and brought triumphantly back into town and placed under heavy guard. No valuables were found on his person, and as there was no warrant authorizing the deputies in Washington Territory to seize Mr. Weiss, he was allowed to go free. As he was leaving the Olympia jail, he turned around and said; "this Deutschman was just too smart for you."

On June 12, 1869, the "Long Bridge" to Marshville as it was also known, became a popular promenade for the evening parties of ladies and gentlemen. From sundown till dusk, it was thronged with pedestrians taking in the scenery of the Olympic mountains. The farmers were appreciating the bridge as well as teams were frequently seen coming and going.

On February 11, 1871, the Town Marshal employed Oliver Shead to repair the draw on Long Bridge. The Standard hoped that this time the repairs would be effective, and said that the; "treasury may be subjected to less frequent pulls upon it to maintain this costly structure. But here the query rises, is it just or proper for the town to sustain this expense? If the contractors undertook a job they were incompetent to fulfill, should the people suffer through their ignorance, or the result of a grasping desire to make the most they could out of the contract?"

"The draw never has worked satisfactorily, and has been voted a nuisance by all who have had anything to do with it. This experience, with that obtained in building the Town Hall, (upon which work paid for months ago is not yet completed, and probably never will be by the contractors,) may seriously retard public enterprise in the future, unless some additional safeguards are thrown around public interests."

On March 4, 1871, a couple of newly arrived emigrants decided to go out on Long Bridge to shoot some ducks. As they were walking out on the bridge they noticed a sign that said; "no shooting firearms within the corporate limits." Not wishing to violate the law, but were determined not to lose their sport, they turned back, and hunted down a sufficient number of the trustees to make a quorum of the Town Council. They then had a meeting and amended the shooting ordinance so as to leave out the place where they desired to shoot. The amendment passed and the duo proceeded down to the bridge to enjoy their sport, having lost little time in having the law adapted for them. The Standard said that; "the incident showed the amiable disposition of our public authorities to conform their institutions to the convenience of the new comers." 

I am sure that after a few days of fun, complaints began to roll in about people shooting from Long Bridge, because on March 25, 1871, the ordinance against shooting on Long Bridge was re-enacted by the Board of Trustees.

On February 10, 1872, Mr. Corker of Tumwater submitted a proposal to build a turn-table draw that could be opened and closed in 5 minutes. The current draw took an hour's labor of 2 strong men, to be able to open and close it. He gave a cost for the replacement at $150. Corker's proposal was accepted and construction was completed on March 30, 1872. The bridge could now be opened in a few moments. Corker was paid $160 for the draw he built on April 20th.

At the end of summer of 1872, a road was constructed from Long Bridge 2 miles north along the west shore of Budd's Inlet to deep water at French's wharf. 

Looks like Corker's draw began to fail only after a year and a half, as on October 18, 1873, the town council was about to construct a new draw on the Marshville bridge. On November 1, 1873, Harned and Blankenship were contracted to build the new draw on the bridge.

On February 14, 1874, during the proposal stage of the Olympia-Tenino short line. One proposal was to keep the line of road on the west side of the inlet and follow the shore line to deep water. The road would not cross the bay, or go into the town of Olympia, and the station would be at the end of the Marshville bridge. Another proposal was to lay rails across the Marshville bridge, and the cars would be brought into town by horses, thus avoiding the danger of, and noise of locomotives in the street.

In 1878 the Olympia-Tenino short line was completed to Olympia and the rails terminated on the north side of the Marshville bridge where the depot was built. Travel instantly increased across the bridge which began to effect the integrity of the structure. By the summer of 1880 the bridge would be in need of renovation.

During the hot summer of August 1879, there was a young couple from Olympia who were addicted to long moonlight walks along the promenade to Marshville and boasted that they knew exactly now many bents there were in the Long Bridge. Another couple could tell you in an instant the number of planks in the sidewalk on Main Street between 4th Avenue and the Capitol.

On May 23, 1884, the bluff at the west end of Long Bridge was being cut through for the extension of 4th Avenue. Workers using pick and shovel were digging down the hill directly in line of the bridge, while teamsters were hauling the excavated dirt across town filling in the depressions of Washington Street between 3rd and 4th. On November 21, 1884, Long Bridge was almost completely skirted on either side by a continuous system of pilings. Most of the piles had been capped and were ready for planking. Later, buildings would be erected on top of the pilings and by 1888, buildings stretched almost half way across the bridge to the draw, which was on the west side.

By fall of 1886, the Long Bridge was beginning to fail. There were soft spots that had temporary pilings placed under them until a new bridge could be built. On August 21, 1888, a notice was placed in the papers calling for a new bridge to be constructed to the west side. This new bridge would be completed and opened for traffic on October 26, 1888.

On December 28, 1888, the Standard wrote an article about Olympia's past and present. This is what they said about Marshville, which was now called West Olympia or the Westside; "The site of West Olympia is beautiful, being high ground overlooking the bay. From thence may be seen the heights of Steilacoom, the Olympic range and Mount Rainier. It offers splendid advantages for cheap residence property and is very convenient for homes for city business people. It will no doubt be covered with beautiful houses in a few short years. It is only about five minutes walk from the post office and the new bridge must inevitably give a boom to West Olympia. The new bridge cost $2,500 and was a grand investment for the city. It will give large returns in quick time."

At the end of the 1880's the Long Bridge was being called the Westside bridge and the Swantown bridge was called the Eastside bridge. On June 1, 1891, the question of filling in the Westside bridge was discussed and Mayor Mann said that; "The maintenance of the bridge is a running expense, requiring repiling, recapping and replanking. When the dredger goes to work this year, the principal operation will be the excavation of a basin near Percival's dock, for the turning of vessels. If we go about it properly, we can retain the dirt for making a permanent street to the Westside. The only expense will be the bulk-heading and the construction of buttresses at the channels, perhaps with rocks. Then proceed with depositing the earth, working westward as far as the appropriation will permit. This is one opportunity of our lifetime, to secure such good work and I think we should look to it carefully." 

"With that work under way, there will be but little remaining to put Olympia in possession of a fresh water harbor second to none on the northwest Coast. The channel at the draw could be closed and a main channel opened by a lock, for the passage of vessels. I think that we can secure from the most competent engineers an estimate of the cost of such an improvement, at but little expense. With a fresh water basin two-thirds of a mile long and a half-mile wide the shipping of Puget Sound cannot fail to he attracted here."

On November 23, 1894, the dredger was busy excavating a channel and the dirt was used to fill in the Westside bridge. Layers of brush was used to make the dam. H. C. Hungerford and others at Arcadia and Hartstein island were providing the brush which was towed to Olympia on scows. On January 8, 1897, the dredger was still at work and the bridge was still being filled in. This work was being funded by the Federal Government and there were no plans to fill the bridge all the way to the west side or for a lock or a gate to keep out the seawater. By 1908 the bridge had been filled in as far the draw.

Fire breaks out in Olympia

On October 8, 1870, at about 8:30pm a fire broke out in the rear of the restaurant, on the corner of Main and First Streets. The fire company was promptly on the ground with their engine, but made little progress in subduing the flames before the water gave out in the cistern on Main and Second Streets. Before other water was attainable, the restaurant building was enveloped in flames and the fire had spread to the large two-story building next door on the south, and both buildings were soon reduced to ashes.

Further progress of the fire was stopped by the tearing down of 2 small buildings on the same block, and by drenching with water, those immediately opposite on both streets. The buildings destroyed were owned by George A. Barnes, whose loss was estimated at about $4,000. Mrs. Waldron, who kept the restaurant, lost most of her furniture, $200 in currency, and $600 in coin, a considerable portion of the latter was recovered, though partially melted. Her loss was estimated at $1,500, besides the suspension of her business, which was profitable.

The place and circumstances under which the fire originated, left little doubt that it was the work of an arsonist, but the motive for such a diabolical deed, could not be imagined. This was the first fire of any consequence that had occurred in Olympia. Many of the firemen and other citizens worked nobly, but without better equipment it was not surprising that their efforts could have been met with better success. It was truly remarkable that the fire was subdued without causing further damage.

Judge McFadden Visits Olympia

Published in the Olympia Tribune on October 25, 1872; "Our city witnessed one of the grandest demonstrations, in honor of Judge McFadden, ever got up in this Territory. Knowing that; the Judge was coming today, his friends prepared him a fitting reception. They procured every horse and vehicle in the town, possible for them to obtain and suitable for the occasion. It was a gala day, flags flying everywhere, homes and wagons decorated, and the participants joyous." 

"The procession was several blocks in length, headed by a brass band and a cortege of sixteen horsemen; there were 47 wagons and carriages drawn by 160 horses, and containing fully 400 persons. A great many ladies graced the occasion with their presence. On Bush prairie the party met the conveyance bringing in the Judge, where, after kindly, heart-felt greetings, he took the seat provided for him in a carriage drawn by six horses. Retracing their steps the party then brought the Judge with them to Olympia. Their entry into town was ushered by the loud booming of two cannons and the merry music of the brass band. The reception was a grand affair, and the Judge and his friends may well be proud of it."

The joy that the citizens experienced during the visit of Judge McFadden, could not have lasted long. That same year, the Northern Pacific Railroad completed its line between Kalama and Tacoma bypassing Olympia.

Olympia Railroad

In 1871 the Northern Pacific railroad began to build a line north from Kalama toward Puget Sound. Rumors had been going around that the railroad was going to build the line through Olympia, which had started a boom. When the people found out the news they were building to Tacoma, they were not very happy about it, and the boom quickly turned into a bust. Olympia would have to use stagecoaches between Olympia and Tenino. Olympia was certain they were to be the terminus of the line. This, as you could imagine, did not go well in Olympia. Plans would soon be made for Olympia to build their own railroad.

Hazard Stevens, son of Isaac Stevens, together with the newspapers and prominent citizens, began an agitation for the building of a railroad from Olympia to a connection with the Northern Pacific at Tenino. Many of the citizens had wrapped themselves up in the idea that Olympia was the only town on Puget Sound, and they thought the Northern Pacific was bound to build there. They were so dazed and stunned by the fact of exclusion staring them in the face that they failed to realize the situation, and were slow to act in a rational way.

After meeting with many discouragements. Stevens issued his famous proclamation, in which he declared that; "unless the people woke up and put their shoulders to the wheel, they would see grass growing in the streets of the capital city in a short time." Many different theories and schemes were talked of; some wanted to build a road with wooden rails, some wanted a standard gauge road, some a narrow gauge, and a few wanted no road at all. Notably among the latter was a prominent physician, Dr. Steele, who was an outspoken citizen of the capital. 

He said publicly that the people were getting along well enough, and so far as he was concerned, he had a good practice. If another railroad were built other doctors would come to town and divide up the practice. The people aroused from their lethargy and held several public meetings, at which it was determined that a narrow gauge road should be built from Olympia to Tenino.

Every Thursday was declared a public field day, when every patriotic citizen was supposed to close his store, office or place of business and take up a shovel, pick or ax and go on the railroad and work hard all day. The good women of Olympia, in order to do their part, furnished baskets of provisions to the laborers. In this manner the greater portion of the roadbed across Bush prairie was prepared by citizen labor for the ties and rails.

From Tumwater, a long trestle was built over the mud flats to the wharf on 4th Avenue. When the standard gauge road was built, this long trestle was abandoned for the new alignment which was to the west of the Deschutes Parkway.

On the first day of the road's completion, the old engine came in without a headlight, so the citizens quickly held a public meeting to procure one. It was said that; "Charley Granger's mule, a common nuisance, was secured and on its back was lashed a mountain howitzer. The animal was then marched to the top of Capital hill, when the cannon was touched off. The rebound was too much for the mule and it was thrown over the high embankment. Did the mule live? Well, you never heard of a mule dying, did you? It wasn't hurt."

On August 1, 1878, the Olympia and Tenino short line railroad was completed, and 700 people took an excursion on the first train to Tenino. The train took the first 350 people on the 24 mile round trip in the morning and then took another 350 people on the trip in the afternoon. The train was full to capacity and took and hour and a half to complete the trip. The completion of this railroad was the beginning of the end for the Olympia-Tenino stage lines.

About that time Judge Obadiah McFadden was elected a delegate to congress to succeed Selucius Garfielde. One of the first acts of Mr. McFadden was to get through congress a law authorizing the county of Thurston to issue bonds to the amount of $75,000 to aid in the construction and equipment of the railroad, pledging the credit of the county for the security of the bonds. After that the road was smooth sailing. The bonds were sold and the road was built, but there was little traffic over it and was proved a financial failure.

The railroad had several years of indifferent operation, and was bought by General Sprague and Robert Wingate, of Tacoma, J. R. Brown, of Tenino, and others. Branches were built out into the timber sections and quite a traffic was built up in the transportation of logs. Better terms were made for train connections with the Northern Pacific at Tenino, and the road was placed on a reasonably paying basis. For some time there had been rumors in the air to the effect that the Northern Pacific contemplated buying the Olympia-Tenino road.

Under an agreement with the people of Port Townsend, the Oregon Improvement Company, in order to earn the $1,000,000 subsidy offered by that town, agreed to build and equip a standard gauge road from Port Townsend on the west side of Puget Sound to a connection with some transcontinental line of railway within a given time.

Manager McNeill, who was a sly old fox, at once perceived the desirability of acquiring the Olympia & Tenino road and making the promised transcontinental connection with the Northern Pacific at Tenino. Acting on this, Manager McNeill and Colonel John C. Haines, attorney for the Port Townsend & Southern railroad, entered into negotiations with the owners of the Olympia & Tenino road, and closed the purchase of that property before the Northern Pacific realized what was going on.

In 1887, the railroad was sold for $16,000 per mile and became a subsidiary of the Oregon Improvement Co. under the name of the Port Townsend & Southern Railroad. In 1891 the road was widened to standard gauge and extended to deep water on the west side of Budd Inlet just north of Olympia. The line would never be extended to Port Townsend. This is the reason Port Townsend never became a major port city on the Sound to rival Seattle, and today, many of the old buildings still stand giving a visitor a feeling you have gone back in time to the Victorian era.

In 1898, the Oregon Improvement Co. was reorganized under the name of the Pacific Coast Co. and the road passed into the hands of the Northern Pacific. The Northern Pacific used the line for the next 18 years, and abandoned it in 1916.

Olympia in the Future

The future of Olympia, what will it be? On August 24, 1878 the Washington Standard speculated on what Olympia might be like in the near future. They first said; "there was no way of foretelling the future by looking at the past. But if we take the past examples of progress in scientific achievement we may predict what the future could be."

"Would it be too much to picture a first class street railway to the suburbs at the Fair Grounds, with cars propelled by compressed air. Or a tubular bridge spanning the middle falls at Tumwater, to serve the manufacturing and commercial interests. Would it not be with in the range of possibility that Tumwater and Olympia will then count their population by many thousands, instead of hundreds."

"Who in the view of the rapid progress of the age, will dispute the possibility of a breakwater from Priest's Point to the West Side Wharf, which will say to the incoming waters, 'Thus far and no farther!' Or of a causeway of solid masonry connecting the peninsula we live upon with a deep-water landing, while the intermediate space is dotted with warehouses, factories, and grain elevators?"

"It doubtless sounds visionary to you, reader, but so did the application of steam as a motive power, to our ancestors, and so did the principle by which the human voice has annihilated distance to us a few weeks ago. And we might add that so does the possibility of bottling-up speech, to mature after ages, to most of us at the present time. The history of this coast presents many examples of unparalleled progress, and viewing the situation from a high and enlightened standpoint, is it improbable that some of our predictions, at least, may not be verified within the next five years?"

Prophesy Verified

On May 27, 1892, the Olympia Tribune printed an article about a conversation with Judge Joseph Cushman that took place about 1865, as he was discussing the future of Olympia. The Tribune said that; "A short term of years before the construction of the railroad from Olympia to Tenino, during one of those sleepy seasons that used to periodically invest our then unostentatious city, two gentlemen, were standing upon the Charles Williams wharf, just beyond Tacoma hall. This wharf was in those days the western terminus of Fourth street, as Long bridge was something not thought of by even progressive Olympians."

"The elder of the two men, remarked to his companion: “I can see in my mind’s eye two trains of passenger cars just rounding into sight over yonder. One train has just come from Portland and the other from Hodgden’s station (Tenino). The one skirt’s Percival’s waterfront and glides away down to anchoring ground, and the other comes dashing into the heart of Olympia. I can see a bridge springing from this wharf upon which we stand and reaching to the other side, with a draw for the passage of sea-going craft."

"I may not live to see all this with my natural eyes, but these things are coming." These startling words were uttered by the Hon. Joseph Cushman only a short time before his death, and the incident was related today to a Tribune representative by the gentleman who was standing by the side; of Mr. Cushman and with whom the noble old prophet was conversing. About the time the first train came into Olympia from Tenino, and when most people were very enthusiastic over the matter, somebody ventured to predict that the time would come when Olympia and Tumwater would have street railway connection."

"This brought out a hearty laugh of incredulity, and old mossbacks who boasted of being here when Mount Rainier was a hole in the ground, solemnly, declared that such a thing would never take place, even in the remotest annals of Olympia’s history." The best comment on these ludicrous conceits of the olden days is the degree of progress now attained by our proud Capital city. It is perfectly safe to say that Olympia is on the high road to metropolitan prosperity and renown."

Olympia at the end of the 19th Century

On May 30, 1879. a suave European arrived in Olympia, and using his smile, quickly proceeded to rack up bills at the hotels, candy shops, and saloons, without a question of his ability to pay. He was so successful at deceiving the merchants, that he became recklessly extravagant. On the morning of June 3rd, he ordered a fast team from Rice Tilley, supposedly for a "spin around the block," but remained out all day and part of the evening, treating the boys and girls to rides.

When he returned the outfit to the stable, the usual promise was made, that he would pay when he received his remittance from Victoria. This was considered rather "thin" by Tilley, and that led to measures which proved his only source of wealth consisted of an unlimited amount of "cheek." Just as a warrant for his arrest was issued, the smiling deceiver quietly stole aboard the Zephyr, to seek a more congenial climate.

At the beginning of 1880, Olympia contained an excellent academy, several schools, 7 churches, 2 public libraries, the Capitol building, and a free reading room, besides agricultural, scientific, musical and benevolent societies of various kinds. The population was about 1,500, exclusive of Tumwater, which contained about 200.

At the beginning of 1885, the Standard said that; "everybody was saying that Olympia is the liveliest place on the Sound. Why is it? asks one. Because we have not inflated property values beyond reason. Because we have an abiding confidence in the ultimate recognition of the many superior advantages of location. Because we have not lived beyond our means. And because we are content with "Letting well enough alone."

On March 1, 1885 the West Shore published a description of Olympia; "Possession of the Territorial government has done much for Olympia, The city is the scene of much bustle and activity during the session of the Legislature, and, naturally, much more business is transacted than at other times. The Land Office for Southwestern Washington is located there, also a United States Signal Office and the office of the Collector of Internal Revenue." 

"Contrary, however, to the case in many States and Territories, Olympia does not depend upon her official honors for support. These are but incidental. The surrounding country, with its resources of agriculture and timber, lands, making the city, both an outlet and a supply point. The shipment of wool, hops, fish, lumber, etc., are very large, and the retail business of the stores is considerable, as the substantial business blocks and large stocks of goods testify."

"The various branches of business are well represented, and may be enumerated as follows: Four general merchandise stores, three dry goods and clothing stores, seven grocery and crockery stores, five hardware and stove stores, two furniture stores, two book stores, two gun stores, a National bank, six millinery and dressmaking establishments, one boot and shoe store, one jewelry store, one undertaking establishment, one photograph gallery, two bakeries, three markets, three livery stables, six hotels, six restaurants, eleven saloons, two saw mills, one shingle mill and numerous stores, other shops, physicians, lawyers, etc."

"The Olympia & Chehalis Valley Railroad enters the city by the way of Tumwater, following the extreme arm of Budd's Inlet, and terminates on the long wharf which crosses the inlet from the city, where, also, the steamer and other vessels from down the Sound make a landing. The harbor has recently been surveyed with a view of dredging a channel from deep water to this wharf, or the "Long Bridge," at Tumwater so that vessels may reach it at all stages of the tide."

"Olympia is the natural shipping point of a large area lying to the south, southeast and southwest, including extensive coal fields not yet developed. The extension of the narrow gauge road down the Chehalis Valley will also add much to the total of product to be shipped from this port, as will also the bolster utilization of the great water power at Tumwater Falls." (The extension was never built.)

In 1887, the long dock at the foot of Main street had been extended. At ordinary stages of the tide, vessels would come up to the Second Street docks and even to the bridge, but at extreme low tide which rises and falls over 21 feet, there was not sufficient water for deep draught vessels. The dock was demanded for convenience in shipping and the city obliged. The wharf cost $12,000, and was a substantial timber dock, built on pilling from the foot of Main Street out to deep water 3/4ths of a mile, where vessels could tie up at any stage of the tide.

On December 20, 1889, Toklas & Kaufman's department store was advertising a big Christmas sale. The Washington Standard said that; "The cloak sale at Toklas & Kaufman's has been the absorbing topic of feminine interest the past week. The blessed ladies will have but 9 hours and 83 minutes between sunrise and sunset, tomorrow, to do their talking." The variety of umbrellas they carried was simply immense. They had thousands of different styles of handles to choose from. The big cloak sale offered a Ladies Kid Shoe for $1.50, that the paper said; "was a beauty and worth fully $3.00." For the gentleman who was looking for a nobby hat, a neat-fitting suit, or a fashionable pair of boots or shoes, he just had go to Frank C. Brown's store, which was located in the Odd Fellows Temple.

At the end of December of 1888, Pratt & Knust opened the Napa Wine House and Olympia Bottling Works. Their store, located at the corner of Olympia Avenue and Main Street offered a wide variety of wine and also sold imported and domestic cigars.

By the end of the 1880's, overland immigrants who wished to settle at Puget Sound were now taking the new Toll Road over Snoqualmie pass. The Cowlitz Trail and the Military Road would be used more by the locals than the immigrant, and the stagecoach was becoming a thing of the past. Steamers continued to bring cargo and passengers up the Cowlitz river until 1918. The main mode of travel for passengers and freight between Portland and Puget Sound was by rail. For the next 30 years this would be the main form of transportation through the Cowlitz Corridor, until the Pacific Highway was completed in 1924.

At the beginning of 1890, J. C. Percival had removed the old warehouses so a new and larger warehouse could be built. The new warehouse was 30 X 250 feet extending the full length of the dock between Olympia Avenue and State Avenue. It was one of the largest warehouses on the Sound at the time.

On February 1, 1890, the new Olympia Hotel opened its doors to the public. Everything was first class. The firms of I. Harris & Sons, and Toklas & Kaufman supplied the linens bedding and napkins that were said to be of the finest quality. The Standard said that; "Olympia might justly feel proud in having such magnificent and large dry goods establishments in her midst." I. Harris & Sons was one of the leading establishments in the northwest.

On September 8, 1891. Senator Levant Frederick Thompson of Sumner paid a visit to Seattle and stayed at the Diller hotel. Thompson was one of the most notable people in the state at the time. Thompson arrived at Steilacoom in the fall of 1852, where he built the 3rd mill on the Sound. In 1853, Thompson was elected as member of the house in the first Territorial Legislature. He was the youngest member of the body. In speaking of this first legislature he said;

"We met in what is now the Golden Bar restaurant of Olympia. The building was first erected as a general store, and then turned into a legislative hall. The Territorial council met in the chamber upstairs and we gathered below. I could go into that room now and show you where I sat. We ran matters rather simply in those days, we dressed simply and we traveled in plain fashion. Members living near the Sound came in canoes. The Indians would paddle you from Seattle for $2.00 and from Steilacoom for $1.00."

Olympia 100 years Ago

On July 3, 1921, the Oregonian ran an article about Olympia and its many natural, industrial and commercial advantages. They said that; "Olympia has a dual attraction for the motorist, being located on both the Olympic and the Pacific Highways. These highways and the wonderful scenic beauties of the country round about the city, make it a tourist center. The new Olympian hotel, one of the finest in the northwest, offers excellent accommodations and service to motor tourists and sportsmen."

"One who has traveled along the coast or across Oregon, Washington and California, probably will meet from time to time some traveler who has broken away from the beaten paths, who has entertained him around the campfire or hotel lobby with enthusiastic and glowing accounts of the grandeur of the Olympics. Such a narrative fires one with a desire to see the things they have been told about. And one wonders why they have not seen more of the Olympic peninsula and the Olympic national park in the advertising folders that have been spread throughout the land. For many years most of the tourist advertising was done by the railways, and of course their interests are not exactly identical with the motorists. But we are telling you now of a paradise of the tourist, a joy for the fisherman and of a haunt for the big game hunter."

"If you do not take the tip you lose."