The Historic Pacific Highway
in Washington
Stage Ride to Olympia 1869
Editorial Correspondence
Olympia Statesman
November 3, 1869
Dear Statesman,
Continuing my letter of the 1st, I may state that we left Portland on Monday morning, in company with Judge Dennison, of the Supreme Court; Mr. Woodward, Superintendent of Wells Fargo & Co.'s Express; John Wilson, the great circus manager, and several other gentlemen, all bound for Olympia. The steamer Rescue brought us to Monticello about 2pm, where we took passage by Davis' stage line for Olympia.
When we left Monticello the roads were dusty, but we had scarcely got into the mountains when the rain began to descend, and for seven long hours we were exposed in an open wagon, on a most miserable road, to the pelting of a pittiless storm. To say that we were wet through does not express the idea that we were literally drowned, and a more forlorn looking set of men I have never seen.
We arrived at Pumphrey's Station about 10pm and there before a rousing fire we dried our dripping garments, and in a brief space of time were summoned to a smoking hot supper, which after our long and perilous ride, was enjoyed with a relish. Coats, boots, stockings, etc., being suitably arranged before the fire to dry, we retired to our beds, to be called at 3 o'clock in the morning, to resume our journey.
Thanks to the kind attention of friend Pumphrey we had a nice clean bed, in a well furnished room opening out from the fire, and thus comfortably, fixed, we rested well, and rose at 3am, greatly refreshed. At that hour all the passengers were in readiness, and a few minutes later we were seated in an open coach, with the rain pouring down, and in almost pitch darkness, we resumed our journey.
The road for miles was little better than a lake, and with small but tough little horses, we made our way at little better than a snail’s pace. The hours that elapsed before daylight were interminable, and we thought at times morning never would come. Slowly jogging along, the water pouring down, just as day was about to break, we came to an unusually fine “water privilege" in the road, and in it the stage upset, spilling out passengers and baggage in wild confusion.
The writer was the “heavy character” in this little drama, and in consequence of his weight was the last to get out of the wreck. Judge Dennison, being light and active, was first on his feet, and at once came to the assistance of your humble servant, fishing me out of the water and assisting me in regaining a firm footing. With the turn over of the stage, the horses stood perfectly still, and thus we escaped what otherwise might have proved a serious accident.
In few minutes the coach was righted, and dripping wet we resumed our cheerless journey. After a journey of fourteen miles, the greater part through a dense forest, we came to McDonald's Station, and there halted for breakfast. We had been five hours in making this fourteen miles, and during the whole time the rain never ceased to come down as though the windows of heaven had been opened.
After a hasty and not by any means palatable breakfast, we were again on the road, with twenty miles to make before reaching Tullis' Station, the next stopping place, and the point at which passengers take dinner. Our drive now for miles was through a dense forest, broken occasionally by little patches of prairie land. These prairies are all taken up, but being, covered with fern, we can scarcely understand how the occupants manage to live. Such patches of land would set a Walla Walla farmer crazy.
In passing the Chehalis we noticed some tolerable good land, but taken as a whole this part of the Territory is anything but inviting to the agriculturist. A poor soil, and long, dreary, wet winters, the cattle are stunted, and two and three-year olds are small beside Walla Walla yearlings. The farmers of our valley who occasionally grumble, should visit the Sound, and our word for it they will go back more than satisfied with their lot in life.
Resuming the thread of our narrative, we reached Tullis' Station, on the Shookum Chuck, about 2 o'clock‘ in the afternoon, having been for some six hours exposed to a constant dripping rain. There we had dinner, and for the balance of the trip, twenty seven miles, we had a covered coach, and with relays of horses made good time, reaching Olympia about 7pm, having made the distance from Monticello, 70 miles in eighteen hours traveling time.
This road, over its entire length
is the worst in the world, and under all the circumstances, it is wonderful how the stages get through in such
good time, and with comparatively few accidents. It is due to the careful
attention by the drivers, and if passengers fail to make the trip comfortably, it is not the fault of the proprietors or employees of the stage line.
Olympia Legislation
On arriving at Olympia we found that the Legislature had adjourned over for a week, to enable the members to visit places of interest on the Sound. Messrs. Page and O'Bryant.
of the Walla Walla delegation, had remained behind, and from both these gentlemen
received a cordial welcome. On Wednesday morning, notwithstanding our rough trip, I was up and around, and noticed that Olympia has greatly improved within the past two years. New
buildings meet the eye at every turn, and everything wears the air of thrift and prosperity.
After Walla Walla, Olympia is the liveliest town we know of, and this prosperity appears to be entirely substantial and free from speculation. Delightfully situated, we have little doubt that Olympia is destined to be one of the largest and most prosperous towns on the Sound. In conversing with the few members of the Legislature that are here, I find that but little legislation of a general character has been attended to.
The bill for a special term of our District Court was repealed as soon as the members learned that the people of Walla Walla were opposed to it. In this matter the members acted gracefully, and in correcting their mistake are entitled to credit. A joint convention of the two Houses was held on Saturday, October 30th. when J. G. Sparks, formerly of Walla Walla, was elected Auditor, and Hill Harmon, Treasurer. Both the new officials are radicals, and regard Garfielde as the apostle of their faith.
The “jumping" of Josselyn into a seat in the Council, without the formality of en election, has caused great excitement in political circles. With the reassembling of the members an effort will be made to expel Josselyn from the seat he wrongly holds, but whether the movement will sour, remains to be seen. A more high-handed piece of political rascality I have never known, and the perpetrators cannot be too severely rebuked.
The plan for the division of Walla Walla county had been cleverly arranged, and one of our members who is distinguished more for his ambition than his ability was in the plot, but now that the scheme is exploded, and now he is anxious to conceal his connection with the affair. His position, however, is well understood, and the odium will cling to him as long as the fabled shirt stuck to its wearer.
The “division" scheme may now be regarded as a dead duck, but no thanks to the political ingrates with whom it originated. Of the Walla Walla delegation, I find that Messrs. Page end O’Bryant are greatly respected by their fellow members, and are considered two of the most useful men in the House. J. D. Mix is the acknowledged democratic leader in the House, and when he speaks the closest attention is paid to every word that comes from his lips.
Lassater has proved what was expected, a great failure, and when he rises to speak the lobby thins out and the members hurry off to the library; some of the members say that nasal twang of his will set them crazy. Lassater should remember the lines in Burns;
“Oh wad some power the giftie gie us, To see ourselves as others see us."
The balance of the Walla Walla members, exclusive of Van, have not attained any prominence in legislation, and as in their case oblivion in charity, I silently pass them by. On Monday next, it in expected that both Houses will earnestly get to work, and of the proceedings I will keep the readers of the Statesman duly posted.
Yours truly,
W. H. N.