History of Steilacoom
By Curt Cunningham

The Steilacoom Tribe 

The Steilacoom Tribe are the original inhabitants of the area. Their territory extended from Tacoma in the north to South Hill in the east and Dupont in the south. The Steilacoom are closely related to the Nisqually and Puyallup people and consist of five bands; Steilacoom, Sastuck, Spanaway, Tilhlow, and Segwallitchew. The Steilacoom were one of the first tribes living on Puget Sound to be adversely affected by the encroachment of foreigners who took over their homeland. 

In 1833, the Hudson's Bay Company (HBC) built Fort Nisqually next to the Segwallitchew Band as a trading center for the region, and in 1838, they claimed all of the Steilacoom Territory for use as a farming center for their new subsidiary, the Puget Sound Agricultural Company (PSAC). Next came the Americans, who in 1849, built a garrison to house the troops that were sent there to protect the settlers who also took their land.

The 1854 Medicine Creek Treaty did not allow for reservations to be established near concentrations of settlers, so the Steilacoom were not provided with a reservation, and instead were forced onto their cousins reservations at Puyallup, Nisqually and Squaxin. In 1856, the Steilacoom and other tribes who signed the treaty met with Governor Stevens to voice grievances concerning the unfair agreement.

On August 4, 1856, during the Fox Island Council, Steilacoom Chief, Sam Young spoke about the lack of a separate reservation, and said; "Now what I want to say is this. My home is at Steilacoom Creek and there is where I want to live and die. I wish to tell the Governor that every Indian loves his native land best. Every Indian loves his own people best."

Today the Steilacoom People are scattered throughout the region and many continue to work toward preserving their heritage at their Cultural Center located in the town of Steilacoom.

Fort Steilacoom is Established

On May 1, 1849, just as dinner was to be served at Fort Nisqually, a large band of Snoqualmie and Skohomish Warriors arrived at the fort in a hostile manner. Everyone quickly rushed into the enclosure and the gate was shut. Employees, Thibault and Gohome were ordered to guard the gate and let no one in. While everyone was waiting to find out why the Warriors came in such numbers, a group of them headed for Chief Lahalet’s lodge. Chief Lahalet was the leader of the Nisqually Tribe at the time. After the group returned from his lodge, the Snoqualmie leader Chief Patakynum was invited into the fort.

Chief Patakynum explained to Dr. Tolmie, who was the Chief Factor, that they were not there to harm them. They came to assist one of their female tribal members who had married Chief Lahalet. Patakynum explained to Dr. Tolmie that Lahalet had brutally beaten his wife and they were angry at him. Not long after, Dr. Tolmie heard a shot fired outside, and fearing the worst, quickly ran to the gate. When he got there, he found out that Gohome was goofing off and had fired his rifle into the air to intimidate the intruders. 

Dr. Tolmie tore into him saying that if he had killed someone, the fort would have been attacked. Before he could finish scolding Gohome, some very angry Snoqualmie and Skohomish Warriors ran up to the gate and yelled at Gohome for firing a shot at them. Copass was the most aggressive and rudely pushed Gohome. Dr. Tolmie then stepped in to try and calm the situation. It was of no use and it ended up with guns being drawn. Confusion and some scuffles ensued.

Soon shots were fired and Leander Wallace, who was an American citizen lay dead. Lewis, who was also an American, had escaped unharmed but had bullet holes in his clothes. Ssgeass, a Nisqually, received a flesh wound in the neck by the bullet that was meant for Charles Wren, who had earlier rifle-butted a Snoqualmie. Wallace and a Skokomish Medicine Man were the only ones killed that day.

Dr. Tolmie was leery as to the original intentions of the war party. He thought there was some other reason why they came. He figured it was to intimidate the people at the fort and to kidnap as many women and children as they could. He also thought they might be there to take over the fort and kill everyone. The Snoqualmie and the Skokomish were feared by the tribes living on the Puget Sound. A few hours after the incident, Dr. Tolmie sent a letter to the home office at Fort Vancouver describing what took place, and American Michael T. Simmons of New Market sent a letter to General Lane.

In 1849, President Polk had appointed General Joseph Lane as Territorial Governor of Oregon. The General arrived in Oregon City on March 2, 1849, and the next month he traveled to the Dalles to distribute gifts to the Indians. He then proceeded to Walla Walla where he made peace between the Walla Walla and the Cayuse, which ended the Cayuse War. When he arrived at Fort Vancouver in May of 1849, he received Simmons’ letter and decided he should visit Puget Sound. 

On May 15, 1849, after six months cruise from New York via the Straights of Magellan, Valparaiso and Hawaii, companies L and M, of the 1st U. S. Artillery under command of Brevet Major Hathaway, reached the Columbia River in a sailing vessel. After their arrival at Fort Vancouver from Astoria on the steamer Massachusetts, they found out about the killing of Wallace at Fort Nisqually. 

Because of the incident, General Lane decided to quarter some troops near Fort Nisqually for the winter. On May 17, 1849, Lane arrived at New Market and sent a letter to Dr. Tolmie at Fort Nisqually. The letter informed Dr. Tolmie and the Chiefs to not sell powder and ball to any hostiles. Lane, who was to visit Fort Nisqually, quickly returned back to Fort Vancouver to receive the newly arrived artillery regiment.

After Lane returned to Vancouver, and greeted the new arrivals, he ordered Company "M" to Puget Sound to capture the murderers. The Army chartered the ship Harpooner to transport them to Fort Nisqually. In the meantime, Dr. Tolmie had delivered Lane’s letter to Chief Patakynum who said he was sorry for what had happened and was worried what General Lane was going to do. Dr. Tolmie said he did not know what was going to happen, but be ready to come to the fort when the General calls.

On Thursday August 23, 1849, Major Hathaway arrived at Fort Nisqually from Vancouver accompanied by Mr. Lattie formerly of the Hudson's Bay Company's marine. That evening, Company M reached Fort Nisqually on the chartered bark Harpooner. About dusk, Captain Bennett H. Hill, accompanied by several of the officers of his company, visited Dr. Tolmie and Major Hathaway at the fort.

On Friday morning August 24, 1849, after a hearty breakfast, Dr. Tolmie rode out with Major Hathaway, and Captain Hill to look at some property to be used as the garrison. On their return, Major Hathaway accompanied by Mr. Lattie boarded the Harpooner, and in the afternoon she dropped down towards Steilacoom and anchored near the mouth of Chamber Creek. Major Hathaway was going to survey some of the river estuaries and harbors along the shores of Puget Sound. Snietlam, who was a Skagit Chief, was Major Hathaway's guide on this exploring trip, and the party was to start out from the Harpooner the next day. 

On Thursday August 30, 1849, Major Hathaway, and Mr. Lattie returned from their trip down the Sound and did not find a suitable site for a dock yard or a town. Major Hathaway, found a site at Dungeness most favorable and thought a fort could be built there, which could serve the Americans as Fort Victoria served the British. But it was too far from the settlements.

On September 1, 1849, the decision was made to take over the abandoned Heath farm near Steilacoom, as there were already a few completed structures on the property. The troops and their supplies were sent to the beach in small boats and the soldiers cut a road up the hill to the farm. The small buildings hardly warranted the expense of fixing them, and most of the barracks were built by the troops in the course of a few days after their arrival. 

The United States Army paid the PSAC $50 a month for use of the land and buildings. The government wasn’t concerned about paying rent because they figured they were going to push out the British from Nisqually very soon. The Army ended up paying rent until September of 1860. Dr. Tolmie, who ran the PSAC from Fort Nisqually welcomed this move by the Americans. 

On Monday September 3, 1849, Patakynum and the six who were accused of the murder back in May, arrived at Fort Steilacoom. On Wednesday September 5, 1849, the Nisqually who had been wronged by the Snoqualmie attack traveled to Steilacoom to resolve the issue. The outcome of the hearing was that the Snoqualmie had to give eighty, 3- point blankets to the Nisqually as a settlement.  The six Warriors who participated in the murder of Wallace were then arrested. These six were; Whyeek, Quillawout, Copass, Tahawai, Tatam and Stulharrier.

On October 3, 1849, the trial of the Snoqualmie affair ended with Copass and Qualawout being sentenced to hang at 4pm that same day. The other four were then set free. One of them happened to be a slave who did not take part, and the Snoqualmie tried to sacrifice him instead of one of their own.

On April 22, 1856, a description of the fort was given in a letter written by George Tennant Steeb, who was the chief engineer on the United States steamer John Hancock; "The other day we went up to Fort Steilacoom after a couple of companies of soldiers. We arrived at the town about sunset and as soon as I was off watch, at 8 P. M., I went ashore and in company with the captain's clerk, walked up to the fort about a mile and a half. We found Doctor Turner, a young man who is from Philadelphia and 15 or 20 fine fellows, lieutenants, surgeons and captains in the army." 

"The fort is built of logs. In fact it is no fort at all but a collection of buildings built in the shape of a square, the men's barracks on one side, the officers' on the other, storehouses on another and a row of army wagons on the last side. The houses are only one-story and doors connect them all. A short distance from the fort is a burial place of those who died here. One grave is quite recent, that of Lieutenant Slaughter, killed while on a scout against the Indians."

Port Steilacoom and Steilacoom City

During April of 1850, Captain Lafayette Balch had sailed his ship, the George Emory into the Straights of Juan de Fuca and then sailed down to Olympia. The Captain had intended to settle there and start a general store to sell the items he had brought with him on his ship. He unloaded all the cargo from his ship, which included the lumber to build his store. He then visited Edmund Sylvester about the purchase of some property. Sylvester along with Simmons were going to start a store for themselves and did not want any competition. 

Sylvester decided to set the price of the property so high, that the Captain would refuse the offer. When the Captain heard the price, he immediately refused and said that it was extortion. The Captain, disgusted and angry, reloaded his ship and sailed back up the Sound to find another place to start his store without interference.

Captain Balch landed at Steilacoom where he again discharged the cargo and immediately set up business. Because of his treatment by Sylvester, Captain Balch wanted to make his place the largest commercial center on the Puget Sound, thus taking business away from Olympia. This is when the rivalry between the towns began. Henry C. Wilson built the store and ran it for Balch. The little store became known as Port Steilacoom. Wilson operated the store for only a couple of months before he packed up his things and sailed northward to take a claim where Port Townsend would be established.

On Monday, December 23, 1850, Dr. Tolmie received word that the George Emory was anchored offshore about five miles north of Fort Nisqually. Dr. Tolmie did not know why the ship was anchored there and continued to go about his business. By mid January, Dr. Tolmie found out why the ship was anchored there. It was because the Captain had taken a claim on PSAC lands and started a store.

On January 23, 1851, Dr. Tolmie took a canoe out to visit Captain Balch, who was onboard the George Emory. After boarding the ship and exchanging pleasantries, the Doctor presented the Captain with a notice of trespass. He was also instructed not to make any improvements to the property. The Captain was pleasant to Dr. Tolmie, and after he left, the Captain simply ignored the notice and continued to improve his claim unmolested.

Dr. Tolmie gave every squatter notice, that they were trespassing on PSAC lands. The PSAC never was successful in driving anyone off. Dr. Tolmie gave the notices to keep a paper trail for when he was to testify in court as to how large the PSAC claim was, in order to maximize the price the Americans would have to pay to obtain the land.

In the winter of 1850, John Butler Chapman moved from the Willamette Valley to Grays Harbor and began a village that he called Chehalis City. His one-house "city" disgusted him and he packed up and moved to Puget Sound, settling at Port Steilacoom. In August of 1851, Chapman filed a claim about a mile north of Balch's claim and started another village that he dubbed Steilacoom City. Later the towns would be known as Upper and Lower Steilacoom.

In those early days it was not a place to bring your mother, your wife or your daughter. At that time there were nearly one hundred inhabitants in the two villages. The denizens were mostly discharged U.S. Soldiers, Indians, and retired Hudson’s Bay Company Employees. 

The town soon became the official port of delivery for goods coming in from the sea. This filled the town with drunken sailors who acted more like pirates. There were also many desperadoes and transients coming through town in search of an easy mark. Most of these men didn’t care for civilization and some of them who had taken Indian wives would become wildmen such as Charles Wren who was feared by the settlers. This was a place where everybody lived outside of the law. All the stores in town sold booze and nobody cared if it was a Sunday or a Wednesday. The town never slept and everything was "wide open." Gamblers were not disturbed and almost every night there would be; street fights, drunken riots, burglaries, robberies and killings. 

On May 23, 1853, The Steilacoom correspondent for the Olympia Columbian wrote an article describing Steilacoom. "The town of Steilacoom City, claimed by John Chapman, that was platted about eighteen months ago, now has two general stores in successful operation, a large fine hotel, kept by Abner Martin, some four or five dwelling houses and a large building intended for a store and warehouse with a large hall upstairs in which the young ladies and gentlemen of Steilacoom on our long winter evenings, will meet to move upon the "light fantastic toe" in the exciting waltz or charming polka, which is in the process of construction and will soon be completed by Phillip Keach."

"Upon Captain Balch's claim a town has just been surveyed and platted, which is called simply Steilacoom, and is in my opinion, a far better name than the many far-fetched and high sounding ones so prevalent in Oregon. At this place there are several houses now going up in addition to the four that are already built and occupied. there are several persons who seriously contemplate building in Steilacoom, and I have no doubt whatever, that some half dozen houses will be built in the next three months." 

"Energetic businessmen have determined to take hold here and the place is bound to go ahead. A most excellent route for a country road, from Balch's Landing to the Muck settlement, has just been viewed and surveyed, which, when completed, will enable the thriving farmers upon our extensive plains to transact easily and quickly their business with the people upon the sound."

On March 2, 1853, Steilacoom became the seat of Pierce County.

On November 12, 1853, Steilacoom was rapidly undergoing improvements. The population of the town had doubled in the last 30 days and the town was now in need of schools as many new families had arrived with their children. The first church was under construction and in a short time the residents would be listening every Sunday to the preaching of the gospel from comfortably lined and cushioned pews. 

Sabbath schools had already been established, and the youth of the town were regular in attendance. There was one hotel going full blast with another one to be built soon. There was a restaurant being built with an attached saloon that included a bowling alley and billiard tables. All the carpenters in town were actively engaged in erecting structures. The blacksmith shop was just completed and had as much work as it could handle.

The Naches Trail

The majority of the incoming settlers fresh off the Oregon Trail settled in the Willamette Valley. Very few continued their arduous journey and traveled north to settle on the Puget Sound. The canoe ride was expensive and the cost to transport their belongings would cost more than the items were worth. After reaching the Cowlitz Landing, the trail north had to be taken, and for about 9 months of the year, it was knee deep in mud for most of the way.

The Cowlitz Trail was not bringing in settlers fast enough to help the growth of the fledgling towns along the Puget Sound. The earliest attempt to build a road over the Cascades was in 1850, when some settlers tried to build a road over Naches Pass. They began in the Puyallup Valley and made it as far as Porter's Prairie near Buckley. In 1853, the military, which now had troops stationed at; Steilacoom, Vancouver and Walla Walla, wanted military roads to link these forts together.

On the March 5, 1853, the Colombian, printed an article titled, The Road Across the Mountains, the newspaper was proud to announce that General Lane had secured $20,000 to build two military roads. The first would be between Fort Vancouver and Fort Steilacoom and another road would be built between Fort Steilacoom and Fort Walla Walla by way of Naches Pass.

Although the newspaper was excited about the funding, they were also concerned the money would get tied up in red tape and then be encumbered by restrictions and provisions that are unnecessary and will do nothing for the project except to slow it down. They were well satisfied that General Lane would have the support of congress, and that the money would be quickly disbursed to open the road. 

They then regressed by saying that; “large bodies move slowly” and the newspaper also feared that Congress would “pat-lach” (Chinook for give) $100,000 for the purpose of getting $20,000 to where it is intended to be. The Colombian went on to say that the government will no doubt build this road after they put a $20,000 “break” upon it. "But when will it be completed?" They ended the article by saying that 3 commissioners could be appointed in Northern Oregon and they would accomplish more with the money towards the completion of the road than 5 times that amount in the hands of what the newspaper called;

“silk stocking government pet functionaries, exported from the Atlantic cities, who would know as much about the mountains and military roads as they would know about the man in the moon and unless immediate action is taken by congress, the citizens of Northern Oregon along with the upcoming emigration might as well build the road themselves.”

The people were so desperate to get a road built over the mountains before the fall emigration season. They did not want to wait for the government money, as they were concerned that the funding would come too late. Olympia residents; Edmund Sylvester, Reverend Benjamin Close, A. W. Moore, James Hurd and John Alexander formed the Olympia Road Committee early in June of 1853. They then put out a sign-up sheet for volunteer help and a call for contributions of cash and supplies for the road crew.

Nearly $1,200 dollars was collected from the settlers on Puget Sound to support the construction of a road across the mountains. This road would be a direct link between Puget Sound and the Oregon Trail. Of the Olympia merchants, the largest donor was the Kendall Company. Steilacoom merchants were equally interested; Captain Lafayette Balch, Thomas M. Chambers and James M. Bachelder made contributions, and Lieutenant William A. Slaughter, who was stationed at Fort Steilacoom was also a contributor. 

Chief Leschi of the Nisqually Tribe, was anxious to support the project and is credited with providing horses for the road builders. His brother, Quiemuth, was to serve as a guide to the crew. The Puget Sound Agricultural Company was also one of the largest contributors to the project. That Summer, Lieutenant George McClellan was put in charge of building the Military Road to Fort Walla Walla by way of Naches Pass.

The “Bostons” were soon to get their "Way’-hut," even though what they ended up building hardly could be considered a road. The Naches Military Road over the Cascade Mountains was known to the locals as the “Boston Way’-hut” which translates to, “American Road.” Boston in the Chinook Jargon is the word for American, and Way’-hut translates to either road or trail. The meaning of the word “Naches” is actually two words meaning “rough waters”, “Naugh” this is a guttural word and means “rough.” The second word, “chez” means “water.” 

Even though the trail was terrible and was in need of much more work to make it a viable road, the Naches Trail ended up seeing very few wagon trains before the War of 1855 began. During the war, all emigration was halted, and the only ones that used it were the Military and the Warriors. 

Civilian Travel over Naches Pass would not resume for a few years after the war as the trail lead into the heart of Yakama Territory and was very dangerous if not fatal to travel that way. After the war, traffic over the mountains began to use Yakima Pass, which was a safer route. Yakima Pass is 7 miles south of Snoqualmie Pass. Before 1867, Yakima Pass was the main route used. 

The Naches Trail had fallen into disrepair after the war, with down trees, land slides and overgrowth. There would not be any improvements made to the road until 1861. Because of the steep hills and over 50 crossings of the Naches River, by the 1880's most of the traffic over the mountains was using the Snoqualmie Pass Wagon Road.

Territorial Road No. 4

In 1853, the Citizens of Seattle, wanting a connection with the Naches Trail, built a Territorial Road between Seattle and Puyallup. At Puyallup, the road connected to the Old Byrd’s Mill Road that ran between Puyallup and Steilacoom. This road began in Seattle and followed the Old Mill Road to Allentown and then continued close to 56th Ave S. to the Duwamish River. From the other side of the river, the road followed 52nd Ave S. up the hill and then southward to Puyallup. In 1862, J. W. Grant was granted a license to operate a ferry at this Duwamish River crossing for five years. The following is from the petition for the Steilacoom to Seattle Territorial Road, submitted on July 19, 1855;

“Commencing from the Bay in front of main street at Steilacoom thence eastward to the station, thence passing Byrd’s Mill, thence to the timber 100 rods north of Parkinson’s, thence northeast five miles intersecting the Puyallup Road, thence along said road to (unknown), thence to John Carson’s, crossing the river at his house, thence northerly to the bluff, thence northerly intersecting the county road below Coopers in King County, thence along said road to Gilliam’s claim, thence to the forks of the Duwamish River crossing the river to L. M. Connell, thence to the territorial road running from Seattle to Tobin’s Mill, thence along said road to Seattle ending at Yesler’s Mill.”

In 1855, the Military improved the Territorial Road between Seattle and Steilacoom to link the forts. The Military Road began at Fort Decatur on Yesler Way in Seattle and followed the Old Mill Road to Beacon Ave S. and continued up the hill using the Duwamish Tribe's Trail to Fort Duwamish on Beacon Hill. Leaving the fort, the road continued south to the intersection of Beacon Ave S. and Military Rd. S. This was the junction with the Indian trail turned Military Road that lead to Fort Tilton at Fall City. The right fork continued south down the hill to meet the Old Mill Road again and followed it southward to the Duwamish River crossing in Allentown.

Today, Military Road S. runs south from Sea-Tac to Coopers Crossing, located in Edgewood. From Edgewood, the road turns into SR 161 leading south to Puyallup. The road never brought any settlers to Seattle, mostly because the Naches Trail didn’t bring in many emigrants to Puget Sound. Of the wagon trains that did make it over before the war started, all settled in the Puyallup and Nisqually Valleys. In 1857, the road became King County Territorial Road No. 4.  

In 1860, the Army wanted to extend the road to Fort Bellingham. Funding was approved though the road was only constructed as far as the city of Snohomish.

During the fall of 1860, a new overland mail route was opened between Steilacoom and Seattle. The Steilacoom Puget Sound Herald had hoped this new service would help end the long standing rivalry between the two towns, and the establishment of feelings and relations which would tend to promote than retard their growth. One result was that traffic increased on the road, which lead to an extended knowledge of the country along the route. 

J. D. Laman, who took the first stage to Seattle which carried the mail, described the area as beautiful and fertile. The Duwamish River Valley, particularly, along the banks of the river which the road traversed a considerable distance, was unrivaled in its beauty and fertility, which he never gave them credit for before the route was opened. On December 14, 1860, Captain A, C, Rand sent a letter from Seattle to Steilacoom. He wrote that; 

"I embrace this opportunity to extend to you my congratulations on the advent of an overland mail between Steilacoom and Seattle; it being, together with the increased facilities which I hear have been added to the route from Steilacoom to Olympia and Monticello. This is quite a stride in the advance towards our comfort and convenience in this portion of the territory."

The Gold Rushes

In 1858, gold was discovered on the Fraser River in Canada. This sparked a mad rush north and many dropped everything to go and strike it rich. Steilacoom was at the time, the metropolis of the “Mediterranean of the Pacific” and was far ahead of all the other points on the Puget Sound. Shiploads full of miners with their mules and pack horses landed at Steilacoom almost daily to wait for the steamers to take them to Victoria, or like many, took the overland trail over Yakima Pass and then traveled northward on the Hudson's Bay trail to Canada.

In the spring of 1858, the rumors of the gold discovery made its way to Puget Sound. Captain Jones of the schooner Wild Pigeon, landed at Steilacoom and brought word that gold could be found along the river between Fort Yale and the forks of the Thompson River. The ensuing rush depleted the towns on the Sound of most of their population. Labor became scare and many sawmills had to close as the skilled workers who operated the saws, had all gone north in search of their fortune.

The towns along the Sound all began a competition to supply these intrepid souls who were going on a long journey, to an unknown land, to find their fortune. Only a few actually did. Steilacoom, Olympia and Seattle had articles written for the newspapers that would boast their town as the best starting point for the trip to Canada. The Puget Sound cities also had to compete with the Dalles as many started from that point, though it was dangerous to travel that way, as the route was through Yakama Territory.

Olympia and Steilacoom wanted to promote the Naches Trail as the best route, but the trail led directly into the heart of the Yakama Territory. Because of this, pack trains leaving Olympia and Steilacoom would take the Green River Trail to Jenkin's Prairie, which is located near Covington. Here they would meet other miners coming from Seattle. From Jenkin's Prairie the groups would take the Cedar River Trail to Rattlesnake Prairie and then over Yakima Pass. Yakima Pass was the main crossing and is confused with Snoqualmie Pass as they are only 7 miles apart. Before 1867, Snoqualmie Pass was only used as a foot trail, as animals had difficulty traversing the downed timber found on the west side of the pass.

Thousands of prospectors were arriving on sailing ships from San Francisco and many more were coming up the Military Road from Monticello. Almost everyday people would be waiting to board the steamers for Victoria or forming pack trains for the long journey over the mountains. At the peak in the summer of 1859, thousands would be arriving and thousands would be returning back. Almost all of the returning miners came back with little or nothing, which did not seem to deter those that were waiting for them to get off the boat.

On Monday evening, October 5, 1858, two steamers and a schooner arrived at Steilacoom laden miners from Victoria. On Tuesday morning another schooner, the H. C. Page arrived from Victoria loaded with horses and mules that were coming back from the gold fields. All of the miners and pack animals gave Steilacoom the appearance of a California mining town.

The Fraser River gold rush began to fade by the end of 1859, but this did not slow the tide of prospectors as in January of 1860, gold was discovered on the Similkameen River near Oroville, and in 1861, gold was discovered near Wenatchee, and later in Idaho. These discoveries kept the Steilacoom saloons and hotels full to capacity and the outfitters continued to be very busy supplying the prospectors.

The Advantages of Steilacoom

On October 22, 1858. a writer wrote about the advantages of Steilacoom; "Steilacoom aspires to become the great city of Puget Sound, and it has some important advantages. The first advantage is that it is really the head of navigation for large sailing vessels, the Sound above being comparatively narrow and crooked, so that the winds are prevented by the high banks from reaching the water, and the tides are so strong that large vessels are in danger unless they have wind." 

"Steilacoom lies about east-northeast from Olympia, and is therefore only about four miles farther from the southern part of the territory. Its second advantage is that the harbor is very large and deep, and the shore steep, so that vessels of any size can come close in to the bank. Its third advantage is its proximity to the Naches and Snoqualmie passes, through which passes there will be, at no distant day, a considerable travel to and from east of the Cascades."

"There is now a good wagon road through Naches Pass, made for military purposes. The Snoqualmie (Yakima) pass is the best of the two, and Steilacoom is probably the best point from which to start as the route being over dry prairie covered with good grass. The road from Seattle over the pass, though 5 or 6 miles shorter, is through dense forest, and the land is swampy and grass scarce." 

"The forth advantage is the vicinity of Fort Steilacoom, where a large amount of military stores are used, all having to be landed at Steilacoom, and thus increasing its trade. The fort is also the center of a number of military roads running north, east, and south, all bringing tribute to Steilacoom. The fifth and last advantage is its position at a bend in the Sound, so that no railroad can pass without going through it."

Steilacoom News Items

In 1858, during the month of September and part of October, Steilacoom saw about 6 weeks of quiet Sabbaths. The Sundays were without exception the most orderly ever seen anywhere. Not a drunken or riotous man had been visible, notwithstanding the steady influx of strangers. 

On February 18, 1859, Captain Lemuel Bills surveyed and laid out an addition to the town on his property, which was first owned by Captain Lafayette Balch. These one acre lots were then offered for sale at prices ranging from $50 to $150. As soon as the lots were put on the market, 24 of them were quickly bought by various parties for investment purposes. These investors had high hopes that Captain Bills would build a wharf. Three lots were donated for churches.

On February 2, 1860, Henry Winsor and J. D. Laman started to run stages between Steilacoom and the Cowlitz Landing. The stages carried passengers and mail twice a week from Steilacoom with an extra stage running on Sundays. In addition to the mail and passengers, the stages took express packages to all intermediate points between the Sound and Monticello.

On March 30, 1860, the Winsor stages began service between Olympia and Steilacoom hauling passengers, mail and express packages. The stages departed Olympia on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays, and departing Steilacoom on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 8am. These stages connected to the Winsor's stages running between Olympia and Monticello.

In the spring of 1860, Steilacoom was booming. There were no unoccupied buildings and many incoming families were turned away to the determent of the town. Many improvements were made that spring and summer. Prominent among the buildings was the brick store of S. McCaw & Co., on Commercial Street, adjoining their old store. Next in prominence was the spacious two-story dwelling erected by Dr. Webber, on Balch Street. 

The Doctor was not content with a pretty home and placed it beside a beautiful garden, which he spared no pains to make it an attractive addition to the town. The next structure was a showy building containing two-stores which had just been completed by P. H. Hughes, saddle and harness maker on Commercial Street, near Keach's Wharf. This building was like the one on the other side of the street, which was built by Antonio Rabbeson and his partner Ferguson. The fronts were finished in stone. Rabbeson, Whiteley and Waldron ran a tobacco and Fruit store, a boot and shoe store, and a meat stall out of the building.

In the other building was Mr. Hughes, who had his saddle and harness shop; James Jester, operated a watch and jewelry store; and Bedington & Company, ran a drug store. Further up Commercial Street, Robert Goodburn had a lumber finishing and carpenter shop. Attached to the main building was a planing machine, which ran on horse power. Nathaniel Orr had a large wagon shop, which was two-stories high on Rainier Street. 

On Balch Street, Charles J. Fitzgerald erected a building used as a drug store with an apartment upstairs for his family, next to him George Gallagher built a stove, tin and hardware store. On the wharf, Light & Packard put up a building used as the post office, seed, book and stationary store. Both hotels, one owned by Milas Galliher and the other by L. F. Thompson underwent extensive repairs and enlargement. In addition to the above mentioned businesses, a large number of structures for various purposes had sprung up like mushrooms all over town.

Phillip Keach broke ground that spring for a large stone and brick building, on the corner of Balch and Commercial streets. Albert Balch just finished a cottage facing Rainer Street, near Main. It was designed to be unique in style and intended for rental. Steilacoom Lodge No. 2, of Ancient Free and Accepted Masons were in preparation for a large hall for the use of the order and also the public in general. The building was constructed on Commercial Street overlooking the Sound. These improvements gave Steilacoom a little more consideration than it had enjoyed abroad, and gave it an importance in the Territory.

On September 14, 1860, it was reported that one of the best sign of the times that they knew of, was the fact the the town jeweler James Jester was constantly adding to his stock of jewelry and watches. Nearly every steamer brought in additions to his wares from the extensive establishment of J. Meeks of San Francisco. There seemed to be no abatement in his sales, and he sold enough stock that would supply everyone in town with one piece of jewelry. Jester had very good quality merchandise and all his customers purchased multiple pieces.

The steamer Eliza Anderson was a regular sight at Steilacoom. She was a popular vessel with the residents and served Steilacoom and the Puget Sound for many years. On August 10, 1860, Mr. Fleming took over as purser and the steamer was put on a new schedule. Mr. Lowell was the acting mail agent as Mr. Scranton had to go back east on business relating to his mail contract.

During the last week of August in 1860, more than a dozen complaints were made about obnoxious odors coming from some of the town's businesses. The most offensive of the odors and the one that got the most complaints was the slaughter house and pig pen in the rear of Mr. Gallagher's store. The next in stench was the pig pen in the rear of the Puget Sound Hotel, kept by Mr. Galliher. 

The last but not the least, was both in the front and rear of the Chinese restaurant. The complaints said that the daily rotten smells were sufficient to poison any atmosphere however pure. Several people became sick when they passed by the establishments. The city authorities hoped that they would clean up their places so they would not have to take extreme measures.

On October 10, 1861, a dangerous practice was becoming quite prevalent in the streets of Steilacoom. This dangerous activity was the sport of chasing chickens about the town with guns and shooting then in the corners of the streets. The practice originated with one or two of the older boys, and had since been followed by many of the residents as an amusement. Public streets were no place to shoot game and complaints were coming in to the newspaper, which told the shooters to take the chickens out of town to shoot them before somebody was accidentally shot.

If shooting chickens in the streets of Steilacoom wasn't bad enough, the vicious dogs running lose in town was another dangerous nuisance. On November 21, 1861, several children were severely bitten. One of these children was the son of J. R. Meeker, who was seized by a powerful dog owned by Pincus & Co., who then dragged the young boy down the street until one of his legs was shredded by the dogs teeth. The previous year it was said, a physic had rid the town of a pack of wild dogs and the residents were hoping that the physic would return and do his magic again and rid the town of the savage beasts.

On Monday morning May 19, 1862, the district school of Steilacoom was opened and Rev. George W. Sloan was the teacher. Many families had moved to the upper town and it was decided to occupy the old schoolhouse, as it was the most convenient to the greatest number of children.

On December 9, 1865, Frank Clark and Dr. Webber got into a quarrel. The ensuing argument turned violent and the two took the fight out into the street where they began to shoot at each other. Over the course of the battle between the two Steilacoom residents, several shots were fired, but nobody was seriously hurt, though they both went to the hospital.

On Thursday evening December 6, 1866, Powell the murderer and the soldiers who robbed the brewery at Steilacoom escaped from the Steilacoom jail. The fugitives only had a few days to enjoy their freedom as they all were captured and back in jail by Monday the 10th.

The Steilacoom Bachelors

On February 24, 1860, A meeting was called in Steilacoom, to consult about the best means of bringing, young women from the Eastern states who wanted to be married. The call was signed by 95 Steilacoom bachelors. The following is a copy of the advertised call printed in the Steilacoom Herald; 

"Attention, Bachelors! Relieving that our only chance for a realization of the benefits and early attainments of matrimonial alliances depends upon the arrival in our midst of a number of the fair sex from the Atlantic States, and that to bring about such an arrival, a united effort is called for on our part, we respectively request a full attendance of all eligible and sincerely desirous bachelors of this communality to assemble on Tuesday evening next, February 18, in Delin & Shorey's building, to devise ways and means to secure this much needed and desirable importation to our shores. Signed by; I. V. K. Waldron, S. C. McCull, James E. Jester, G. Ford, Christopher Downey, Egbert H. Tucker, O. H. White, O. C. Shorey, and eighty-seven others."

The meeting resulted in nothing being done as there was a disagreement on how best to proceed in finding single women who would want to come across the country to an unknown wilderness and get married to a stranger.

The problem was that the new settlers had neglected or forgotten to bring wives with them, and the old settlers were too young to have daughters old enough to wed. The men of the west wanted wives, and the women of the east wanted husbands. Because of the busy nature of a pioneer's life, together with the expense and time required by a double journey to make an acquaintance in the Eastern states, prevented thousands of young men from seeking matrimonial alliances in places where they could be found. It was hoped by the bachelors that the ladies would ignore conventionalities, and come to the western shores to meet their forever mate.

Newspapers from all over the country printed the story of the bachelors plight. It wasn't long before letters from single women who wanted to go west and marry, came in from the eastern states and even one from Ireland. One letter was from a woman in Nashville, addressed to the bachelors collectively, on behalf of herself and others in that city. Another letter was from a woman in Massachusetts addressed to Charles Prosch editor of the Puget Sound Herald; 

"Mr. Prosch, I will now address you upon the subject upon which I long ago intended to have addressed you. I have been written to concerning an emigration of females to Washington Territory, and promised to do all in my power to promote it. Accordingly I am engaged at the present time in forming a group to go out west. Some of those who are willing to accompany me have the means to defray their own expenses; others have not." 

"Will the people of Steilacoom and vicinity feel sufficient interest in the matter to assist me? If they do, I assure you that I will persevere and exert myself to the utmost. I fully believe that I shall succeed in all that I have undertaken if I am assisted by those who most certainly will be benefited by my efforts." 

The above letter was published on September 14, 1860, and by that time, the newspaper had already received two offers (that they could vouch for) which would provide temporary lodging for a dozen of the young women whom the correspondent proposed to bring to Steilacoom. Several heads of families in town and vicinity each had voluntarily offered to receive at their homes one of the young ladies.

These women and many more came after the Civil War, as many widowed wives of the fallen soldiers made the trip to the Puget Sound, to remarry and begin a new life. One hundred years later in the late 1960's, a popular sitcom called; Here Come the Brides, was loosely based on the arrival of a group of widows to Seattle, who were brought in by Asa Mercer.

Quick Traveling

On September 3, 1861, the Steilacoom Puget Sound Herald was surprised when they received the Portland Daily Advertiser, which was printed on September 2nd. Then at noon Thursday September 4th, they received the paper printed on the 3rd. Monday's paper reached Steilacoom from Portland in 36 hours. Wednesday's paper made it in 54 hours, which was the usual time it took for the mail to arrive.

The Herald was curious as to exactly how long does it take to travel from Portland to Steilacoom. So they asked J. D. Laman the energetic associate of the enterprising contractor Mr. Henry Winsor. They learned that the distance from Portland to Olympia is 135 miles, and to Steilacoom 160 miles; all of which, except for about 45 miles, is traveled by stages.

The paper said that; "One hundred and sixty miles in thirty-six hours, with horses, even in the age of annihilation of time and space by steam and electricity, we think a very creditable performance for this extreme western portion of our country."

The distance from Monticello to Olympia is 90 miles and was traveled within 20 hours by the stages. Winsor & Laman had done much to reduce the distance between Portland and Steilacoom, and were given the best of wishes in behalf of the citizens of Puget Sound for their enterprising spirit.

Highway Robbery

On Tuesday March 18, 1862, shortly after 9pm, Steilacoom resident John Phillips was on his way back to town from the garrison, and when he was about half way down, he was met by three men, who threw him on the ground and rifled through his pockets. Fortunately he had only $22.50 on him, which the robbers took and then left toward the fort. Phillips then hurried to town leaving behind his overcoat and lantern, which was extinguished when he was thrown down. 

Not a word was spoken during the robbery, and it being very dark, Phillips was not able to see their faces or clothing. He thought they might have been members of the voluntary company stationed at the fort. They may have been the same ones who robbed the clothing department of the garrison.

The First Attempts to Establish a Prison in Washington Territory

Until the late 1860's, the Territory was only sparsely populated, and there was little need for a penitentiary. People convicted of crimes punishable by a jail sentence would be confined in the county's jail where the crime was committed. After the Civil War, and later when the railroad was completed to Tacoma, more and more people came to settle in the region. This migration also brought with it many undesirable people of questionable morality. This influx spawned an increase in serious and sometimes violent crime, which made a penitentiary an unwanted necessity.

On January 22, 1867, Congress authorized the establishment of a prison in Washington Territory. At Fort Steilacoom a 10 acre site was selected and $10,000 was appropriated for its construction. The Federal Government did not place any ads for bids, and the project became stalled due to ownership issues concerning the property. Territorial prisoners in the meantime would be housed at the Steilacoom jail.

On February 23, 1867, a joint resolution was passed asking the proper department to return the money to the Territory that was appropriated for the construction of a penitentiary. This was so that the funds could be applied to the purpose for which it was appropriated. The act also empowered the penitentiary commissioners, at any time they may deem it in the best interests of the Territory, to take and have custody of all Territorial convicts, wherever they may be confined, and employ them in the improvement of the penitentiary grounds or in the construction of the penitentiary buildings.

On October 9. 1869, Washington Territorial Governor Alvan Flanders wrote to the Legislature on the status of the Territory. He talked about the prison situation at Steilacoom and said that an appropriation of $10,000 was made by Congress more than 2 years ago, for the purpose of building a prison, under the direction of the Secretary of the Interior. Although a site was selected near the town of Steilacoom, and 10 acres of land was donated, nothing further was done, and the money remained unspent. 

The reason for the delay was the fact that the title to the land was in the Territory of Washington, and the Secretary of the Interior refused to erect the building until a deed was made to the United States. The Governor then recommended to the Legislature that the land be conveyed in fee simple to the United States, and the Governor would then certify to the Secretary of the Interior, that a good and sufficient title to the land had been made. It was hoped that this would speed up the process so that work could begin on the construction of the new prison.

The current conditions at Steilacoom were deplorable, and the building which was used to house the inmates was unfit for the purpose. Prisoners who were convicted of, or were awaiting trial for petty crimes, were kept in the same cells as the dangerous and violent criminals who were serving long sentences. Escapes became commonplace, and they had become so frequent, that consigning prisoners to be jailed there was regarded as a mockery of justice. The Governor urged the Legislature to take action on the matter. The prisoners had poor medical attention, and the ones who were near death's door and could not be helped by the doctor, would be released to die wherever they fell for the last time.

On that same day, October 9, 1869, D. S. Baker, Foreman of the Grand Jury gave a report on the condition of the prison at Steilacoom. It was suggested that a certain number of cells be partitioned off from the others for penitentiary convicts. The cells should be lined with boiler iron and arranged so that those confined therein would have no access to the rest of the jail, or be permitted to communicate with those confined for minor offences, until better provisions could be made for that class of criminals. They also suggested that the entire jail yard be relined with boards to block the many holes to prevent the convicts from communication with the outside.

Because of these reports, a committee was formed to visit the penitentiary and make a visual inspection. Their final report said that; "the building in which the prisoners were kept was very unsafe and entirely unfit for the purpose. Several escapes had just occurred, but the Committee was of the opinion that the escapes were largely due to the guards neglecting their duties." The Committee recommended the use of the Gardner shackle, which would render an escape almost impossible.

With all the inspections and reports of the unsafe and deplorable conditions at the prison, nothing would be done to improve the situation. In the summer of 1870, several prisoners escaped in broad daylight as the Legislature continued to kick that can down the road. It was suggested that if the Legislature refused to budge, at least they should take better care of the prisoners and hire competent doctors and trustworthy guards.

The Notorious Desperado Tom Wilson

One of the people to be imprisoned at the Steilacoom jail, was the notorious desperado, Tom Wilson. The story begins in the summer of 1865, when Wilson, who lived in Idaho at the time, was arrested on June 15th for drawing a revolver and then striking William Miller in the head with the pistol during a fight. To let Tommy cool off, Sheriff Bowen furnished him with lodgings. They both were injured, but neither seriously. 

About a month after the fight with Miller, Wilson got into trouble again and was indicted for arson. He was accused of starting the Idaho City fire on May 18, 1865. He was arrested and put in jail. After the trial, Wilson was sentenced to a year in prison. On November 18, 1865, the Idaho Governor pardoned him and he was set free. By the Spring of 1866, Wilson was back to his old habits and getting in trouble again with the law.

During the summer of 1866, Wilson decided to try his luck at mining and made a claim on Grimes' Creek. A dispute to the claim arose as another miner had also put in a claim for the same plot. After arbitration, the claim was awarded to the other miner. Wilson was angry and was not going to take it lying down, and on July 6, 1866, he met the other miner at the claim on the creek. It wasn't long before they began to quarrel, and during the heated argument, Wilson grabbed a shovel and hit the other miner in the head and killed him. Afterwards he was arrested and thrown in jail. Now he was up for murder. Then on July 21, 1866, while Wilson was awaiting trial, he and two others escaped. Now Wilson was a murderer on the run. 

He traveled to Walla Walla and then down the Columbia to Vancouver. Sometime during February of 1867, Wilson held up a stagecoach. This brought attention to him and on March 9, 1867, he was captured and hauled to the Vancouver jail. He threatened to kill the jailer so he was put in chains. That April, Wilson was sentenced to two and a half years in prison. After just a few days, Wilson tried to escape, but he did not get far this time and was caught by a petit jury, in charge of an officer, who all gave chase and quickly captured him.

On April 14, 1867, Sheriff Morse started out to Steilacoom with Wilson on the Military Road. During the trip Wilson called the prosecuting attorney many unpleasant names, and then threatened to rearrange the spine of Deputy Marshal William Goldback. The story comes to an end in the summer of 1867, when Wilson was pardoned by Governor Cole on the condition that he leave the Territory. Wilson happily agreed and hopped on the next steamer headed for Victoria, and he was never heard from again.

Fort Steilacoom Events

On July 18, 1859, Lieutenant-Colonel Silas Casey, Ninth infantry, who was the commander of Fort Steilacoom, received a letter from the headquarters of the department of Oregon, from which the following was extracted; "Sir: By special order No. 72, herewith enclosed, you will perceive that the general commanding has withdrawn the garrison from Bellingham and Townsend, and has placed the steamer Massachusetts under your orders for the better protection and supervision of the waters of Puget sound."

The letter had the following directions for Lieutenant-Colonel Casey; The steamer Massachusetts was to proceed without delay to Bellingham, to be used in establishing Company D, Ninth infantry, on San Juan Island, after which she was to transport Company I, of the Fourth infantry, to Steilacoom, after the company Casey assigned for service on the steamer was ready to embark under his supervision.

After the ship received the necessary stores and supplies she was instructed to cruise in the Sound among the islands frequented by the Northern Indians, who were warned not to come into any of the waters under the jurisdiction of the United States, which embraces all the islands and currents to the east of the Straits of Haro. 

The steamer was to use San Juan Island to obtain wood and water. At the end of every two months the ship was to visit Fort Steilacoom to obtain supplies, and for muster and inspection, which was required by the regulations. The command of the steamer Massachusetts was now under the commander of Fort Steilacoom, where it became a component part of the garrison. The officers on the ground read between the lines, that this was the end of the Puget Sound District.

On May 18, 1860, Fort Steilacoom received the addition of Major Haller's company from Fort Townsend. The troops were brought in by the Massachusetts with Captain Fauntleroy at the helm. The U. S. Army wanted to break up the smaller posts and concentrate the troops in large stations. This is when Fort Townsend and Fort Bellingham were abandoned. The remaining Puget Sound forts were at Steilacoom, San Juan, and Semiahmoo.

Fort Steilacoom now needed more housing for the additional troops to be stationed there. That month Lieutenant Reynolds had contracted with Dr. Webber for 100,000 feet of lumber, which was brought up to the fort from the beach by the Quartermaster's teams. After the new structures were completed, Fort Steilacoom had the appearance of a considerable but compact town.

On July 20, 1860, The steamer Massachusetts arrived at Steilacoom bringing in more troops. This brought the force at the fort to five companies, though one or two were only half full, due to recent discharges.

On August 28, 1860, Colonel Casey was ordered to pay no more rent to the Puget Sound Agricultural Company (PSAC). The United States was in negotiations with the Hudson's Bay Company (HBC) to purchase their remaining properties. The PSAC/HBC had claimed about 160,000 acres.

On February 3, 1862, D. W. Lowell had his feet badly frost bitten while marching on the Military Road from Steilacoom to Portland. His company, which included Judge Rice, began their trip at Fort Steilacoom and had taken the Military Road. Other members of the company suffered from frost bite though not as serious as Lowell.

On Wednesday, December 16, 1863, at 9pm one of the vacant company quarters at Fort Steilacoom was discovered to be on fire. The alarm was sounded and every member of Company "K" 1st Washington Territory Infantry, with their company commander, Captain E. H. Tucker, raced to the scene and quickly put out the fire. The flames were confined to the one building, which was totally destroyed. 

Because of the efforts by Captain Tucker and his company the fire was contained and saved the fort from destruction. The commanding officer of the fort, Lieutenant Colonel English was present and said that he never saw so much labor performed in the same space of time by an equal number of men and praised Captain Tucker and Company "K" for their gallant efforts in putting out the flames. It was unknown as to who or what started the blaze.

On May 7, 1863, Captain Barry and his company reached Monticello after seven days of weary travel on the road from Steilacoom. The Company was marching to Fort Vancouver and because the road was nothing but a sea of mud, the trip was very unpleasant for the troops.

On January 2, 1864, the Captain of the steamer Eliza Anderson refused to pick up some new recruits in Seattle who were on their way to the fort. The reason for the refusal was that the steamer company had grown tired of transporting soldiers for free.

In the fall of 1865, Captain P. B. Johnson was relieved as Assistant Quartermaster of Volunteers, and Lieutenant J. F. Noble took his place. Lieutenant R. H. Porter, 14th Infantry, with Company "B," was ordered to Cape Disappointment. Brevet Lieutenant R. F. O'Brien, 14th Infantry, with Company "E," was ordered to Fort Lapwai to relieve Company "H," Oregon Infantry, which was ordered to Fort Dalles, where they were mustered out of service. Brevet Colonel S. Ross, 14th Infantry, with Company "F," was ordered to Fort Steilacoom to relieve Company "C," Oregon Infantry, which then marched to Fort Vancouver to be mustered out of service.

On October 26, 1866, Fort Steilacoom was now under the command of Lieutenant Graves, who was stationed there with a detachment of Artillery, until they could be relieved by another Artillery Company coming from Fort Humbolt. A week later a steamer arrived at Steilacoom with 320 fresh recruits from the east who were assigned to the fort.

The Deserters

Army Desertions were common in the 1860's and Fort Steilacoom was no exception. At the beginning of 1863, desertions had become so frequent at Fort Steilacoom, it seemed as though a mania for running away had taken possession of the volunteers. There were new desertions every week of two, three and sometimes more. Many would steal the small boats moored at the wharf, until the last one was seen floating away with a small party of deserters. Most of them had gold fever and were headed for the mines in Canada, the Okanogan and Idaho. Others simply took off down the the Military Road to make their escape.

On December 18, 1862, Lieutenant Jester apprehended three deserters near Monticello who were making their way to Portland. On Sunday March 12, 1863, a canoe with six deserters from Fort Steilacoom, capsized near Port Townsend and all were drowned. They were on their way to Victoria under sail, when a sudden squall struck the canoe turning it over.

On April 23, 1863, the President, by proclamation, pardoned all deserters who would return voluntarily to their posts within a specified time. The proclamation was a success as thousands of deserters, who were deterred by fear of punishment returned to their regiments. Originally this amnesty did not apply to deserters on the Pacific Coast, but General Wright granted the same privileges to these deserters, who had until June of 1863 to return. Any deserter who returned was restored to duty without punishment, except for the forfeiture of pay and allowances during their absence.

While many returned to their post, many more continued to desert. On January 9, 1864, because of the rampant desertions at Fort Steilacoom, the First Regiment of W. T. Volunteers had only forty eight soldiers remaining in its ranks.

On January 16, 1864, a non-commissioned officer at Fort Steilacoom, who had been acting as Commissary Sergeant for the past year, had deserted after stealing $1,000 worth of stores, which he had taken slowly over time and sold to various parties. The soldier had taken a leave of absence for a few days and hopped onboard a steamer heading for Victoria. The soldier was originally from England and it was thought he was going to book passage back home.

Desertions would continue to plaque the garrison until it was abandoned in 1868.

The Fort is Abandoned

On April 4, 1866, Major General Steele issued orders for the abandonment of Fort Steilacoom. It would take two years to completely empty the garrison, which had been occupied by the military for 19 years. The fort was officially abandoned on April 22, 1868. Captain Charles H. Pierce was its last commander. Battery "E," Second Artillery, the last force at the fort, had 5 officers and 124 enlisted men, who were sent to Fort Tongass in Alaska. 

The property sat empty for a year and was to be sold in the fall of 1869. Then on November 6, 1869, the sale of the fort was postponed until January of 1870. This was because more time was needed to communicate with the proper officers in reference to donating the fort to the Territory for penitentiary purposes.

The Insane Asylum

On October 9, 1869 Territorial Governor Alvan Flanders gave a report to the Legislature on the status of the Insane Asylum. There was at that time, nineteen patients in the Asylum at Monticello. The hospital was not the best location for an insane asylum and the Governor presented a petition to Congress asking that they give to the Territory the buildings at Fort Steilacoom, which was recently abandoned by the military.

The Governor then recommended that a memorial be sent to Congress by the Legislature asking that a grant be made for the purchase of the property for the asylum and that the patients at Monticello be transported to Fort Steilacoom as quickly as possible. Fort Steilacoom was considered as desirable as any that could be found in the Territory for the hospital. The Governor said Fort Steilacoom was a place of beautiful surroundings, with easy access and was dry, healthful and pleasant, situated less than two miles from the wharf at Steilacoom.

The Governor recommended that some changes should be made, not only in the location of the asylum, but that the present plan for taking care of these unfortunate souls should be modified, and that some competent person be appointed to take charge of the institution. Although no complaints had been made toward the present contractors who had the care of the insane. Yet he thought it was the duty of the Territory to provide for the care, comfort and cure of the insane and remove as far as possible, all temptations to neglect or ill treatment of them.

The 25 buildings that made up the Fort Steilacoom Garrison, were sold to the Territory on January 29, 1870 for $850, and the land was donated on August 19, 1871, and the property became the Territorial hospital for the insane. There were 21 patients that were transferred from the private hospital at Monticello. Hill Harmon became superintendent and contractor for keeping and clothing the hospital's inmates. He repaired the old garrison buildings and did the best he could to comfort them. C. W. Boeschen was the warden and Dr. S. Hemingway was the resident physician.

In the Spring of 1878, a visitor had written a description of the asylum; "On the old garrison grounds is the Territorial insane asylum located on a large field enclosed with a strong high fence. The officer's quarters on the north side, and the soldiers barracks were on the other three sides of the old parade grounds. The three barrack buildings were used with slight alterations for the inmates of the asylum. Only two of the buildings were used, although the third was in the process of being renovated." 

"The former officer's quarters were used as offices and homes for those in charge of the asylum. In connection with each ward was a fence enclosure where the patients can air themselves without danger of escape. In May of 1878, there were 76 patients, 13 females and 63 male. There were 14 officers and employees. Dr. Willard, was the medical superintendent and had a good reputation as a caring doctor." 

"Major Alden was the steward in charge of all outside accounts in procuring supplies. His long service in the military made sure that operations were conducted with military exactness. L. S. Lowell, who had worked as an agent of the Singer Sewing Machine Company, was the warden. Lowell had 3 assistant wardens and Charles Ross was the outside warden and was popular with the young ladies of Pierce County. The unfortunate inmates of the asylum were well provided for considering that they were using an old abandoned fort for the purpose for housing the mentally insane."

The First Federal Prison

On October 9, 1869, Washington Territorial Governor Alvan Flanders wrote to the Legislature on the state of the Territory. He talked about the prison situation at Steilacoom and said that an appropriation of $10,000 was made by Congress more than two years ago, for the purpose of building a federal prison, under the direction of the Secretary of the Interior. Although a site was selected near the town of Steilacoom, and ten acres of land was donated, nothing further was done, and the money remained unspent. 

The reason for the delay was the fact that the title to the land was in the Territory of Washington, and the Secretary of the Interior refused to erect the building until a deed was made to the United States. The Governor then recommended to the Legislature that the land be conveyed in fee simple to the United States, and the Governor would then certify to the Secretary of the Interior, that a good and sufficient title to the land had been made to the United States. It was hoped that this would speed up the process so that work could begin on the construction of the new prison.

The current conditions at Steilacoom were deplorable, and the building which was used to house the inmates was unfit for the purpose. Prisoners who were convicted of, or were awaiting trial for petty crimes, were kept in the same cells as the dangerous and violent criminals who were serving long sentences. Escapes became commonplace, and they had become so frequent, that consigning prisoners to be jailed there was regarded as a mockery of justice. The Governor urged the Legislature to take action on the matter.

On that same day, October 9, 1869, D. S. Baker, Foreman of the Grand Jury gave a report on the condition of the prison at Steilacoom. It was suggested that a certain number of cells be partitioned off from the others for penitentiary convicts. The cells should be lined with boiler iron and arranged so that those confined therein would have no access to the rest of the jail, or be permitted to communicate with those confined for minor offences, until better provisions could be made for that class of criminals. They also suggested that the entire jail yard be relined with boards to block the many holes which would prevent the convicts from communication with the outside.

Because of these reports, a committee was formed to visit the penitentiary and make a visual inspection. Their final report said that the building in which the prisoners were kept was very unsafe and entirely unfit for the purpose. Several escapes had just occurred, but the Committee was of the opinion that the escapes were largely due to the guards neglecting their duties. The Committee recommended the use of the Gardner shackle, which would render an escape almost impossible.

With all the inspections and reports of the unsafe and deplorable conditions at the prison, nothing would be done to improve the situation. In the summer of 1870, several prisoners escaped in broad daylight as the "can was kicked down the road." It was suggested that if the Legislature refused to budge, at least they should take better care of the prisoners and hire reliable and trustworthy guards.

On September 17, 1870, the Federal Government purchased 27 acres on McNeil Island for use as a federal prison. On July 8, 1871, plans were being drawn up for the construction of the building to house the inmates. On April 7, 1871, The Secretary of the Treasury appointed W. E. Boone of Olympia as superintendent of construction for the new penitentiary to be built on McNeil Island. On August 1, 1871, ads were placed in the newspapers for the construction of one wing for the penitentiary. On August 19, 1871, the construction contract was awarded to F. A. Sproenhle for a sum of $26,000. The wing when completed was 40 feet by 70 feet and 22 feet high, built of stone, and covered with a Manzard roof.

The building was completed in 1873, and in the fall of 1874, the prison was placed under the direction of the United States Marshal. Prisoners serving long sentences were moved from the county jails and placed in the new penitentiary on the island. By the end of 1875, there were a total of nine prisoners.

On October 15, 1875, the Governor gave a report on the status of the prison and said that the terms and conditions for taking in Territorial convicts at McNeil island, was that the Territory had to enter into a contract with the United States, providing for the payment of $1.50 a day for the confinement, food, clothing and medical assistance of each Territorial prisoner, to be paid monthly. It was said that this new system cost about the same as the old system of incarceration.

At the beginning of 1879, Washington Territory still had no Territorial prison. Territorial prisoners continued to be incarcerated in the county jails or at McNiel Island. Things began to change when the 1878 Legislative session provided for the keeping of all Territorial prisoners at Seatco by the sheriff of Thurston county, by contract. At Seatco, now known as Bucoda, a building was constructed to house the Territorial prisoners. The penitentiary at McNeil Island would now be used exclusively for Federal prisoners.

Point Defiance

Fort Steilacoom was abandoned with the expectation that a new fort would be established at Point Defiance. The point was first considered by the Army on July, 19, 1859, when General Harney said; "Fort Steilacoom was badly located, being a mile from the Sound and without military advantages. I would therefore respectfully suggest, that Fort Steilacoom be considered a temporary establishment until a proper site to cover the head of the Sound is hereafter named. I consider Point Defiance, on the east shore of the Sound, some sixteen or twenty miles to the north of Fort Steilacoom, as a proper site for this purpose."

On November 9, 1860, Lieutenant Casey, of the engineers, who was stationed at Fort Steilacoom, was ordered to examine Point Defiance for the possible construction of a new post. The idea was to make the point a second Sebastopol or Gibraltar by the mounting of hundreds of guns, and biding defiance to all that pass that way.  

The land at Point Defiance was never put to military uses, and in 1888, the U. S. Army donated the property to the City of Tacoma to make into a park.

Steilacoom 1870 - 1900

On January 22, 1870, near Steilacoom, a desperado named McDaniel and a claim-jumper named Gibson, were shot to pieces by members of a vigilance committee from the Muck Prairie. McDaniel had jumped a claim and was then ordered off. After he was served an eviction notice he threatened the life of the messenger who rode back to tell the citizens what had happened. They then formed the vigilance committee resulting in the deaths of the men.

On April 29, 1871, it was said that Steilacoom is a city! The praise for the town came from the same reports that had always said that Steilacoom was "The Wilderness," and from the dignified demeanor of the Mayor, left no doubt of the newly acquired honor. The following citizens of Steilacoom were elected officers under the charter election that was held on April 22, 1871; Mayor, Colonel William H, Wallace; Council members, N Orr, Phillip Keach, Isaac Carson, F. A. Sproehule, John Saltar, John Latoam and Irving Ballard; Treasurer, Isaac Pincus; Recorder, Warren Gove; Assessor, Robert Williams; Marshal, M. Downey. 

The winners of the 1874 election were; Mayor, Phillip Keach; Council members, A. Packsher, James Ross, James Hughes, F. C. Miller and Erastus A. Light; Recorder, Julius Dickens; Marshal, A. H. Lowe; Assessor, S. Roberts; Treasurer, Isaac Pincus; and the Clerk was, G. W. Gallagher.

On May 9, 1874, a Tacoma resident was married at Steilacoom. His brother was the one engaged to the girl, but he did not seem to care much about it. While the three were on their way to Steilacoom, the groom asked his bachelor brother to take her off his hands. The offer was accepted by the one who had started from Tacoma with the expectation of being only a groomsman.

The Summer of 1874 was a prosperous time for Steilacoom. The steamers were arriving with full cargoes for the merchants, which indicated that better times were not far away. The farmers were shipping out enormous quantities of wool, and were being paid in cash. The hop harvest that year was larger than any previous year.

On August 11, 1874, it was said that the Steilacoom style of buggy riding consisted of the lady holding the ribbons, and the young gent holding her fast with both arms around her waist, to insure that she doesn't fall off.

In June of 1875, the city of Steilacoom had paid off all its debts, and the treasury had a remaining balance of $6,514. On June 19, 1875, the Julius Dickens of the Steilacoom Express had called upon the citizens to whitewash the town.

On February 11, 1878, a telegraph was sent out from the Lake View Station just before noon that Steilacoom had caught fire just after midnight. The blaze destroyed an entire block which included the Telegraph Office, the Post Office, and the building of the former Steilacoom Express, which belonged to the estate of Julius Dickens, who passed away on October 12, 1877. The fire did not deter the townsfolk knowing the burned structures would be replaced by better constructed buildings.

The fire broke out in a small building owned by Mr. Voight and was situated in the rear of the Post Office. The flames burned all the mail and the office furniture. The building was owned by W. H. Mastin. Next to be consumed by the fire was the saloon of J. J. Westbrook, which had two billiard tables, a bar, fixtures and other furniture valued at $3,000. Next was the warehouse owned by Pincus & Packsher, where they stored all their reserve merchandise. The loss was fixed at $5,000. 

Voight's saloon was the last building burned and he lost his entire stock of liquor, cigars and furniture. All the adjacent buildings were badly scorched and some of them caught fire which were quickly extinguished. Captain S. G. Parker, who had reported the disaster said that there was no insurance on any of the above properties and the total loss would exceed $16,000. Considering that the fire broke out at around 1am in the morning and the town had no fire engines or ladder trucks, the Steilacoom residents acted quickly and saved most of the town.

The area of town that was destroyed by the fire became known as the "burnt district." The rebuilding began in the Spring of 1878 and continued through the Summer. The first buildings to be built was the residences of Mr. Harmon and Mr. Weller. Mr. Westbrook and the firm of Pincus & Packsher rebuilt their stores, with the latter being constructed with brick and stone. These structures were completed by the end of that summer. The town continued to grow as property was in demand and the streets were in good condition. Gardens were blooming, and the people were happy as ever, and were still hopeful of a great future for Steilacoom.

On August 15, 1879 the Olympia Washington Standard said that a reporter from a Seattle newspaper paid tribute to the town of Steilacoom. The reporter said; "The saloons and beer halls are well patronized, everybody seems to have money and the people of Steilacoom seem happy and contented." The Olympia paper had wondered if the reporter of the Seattle paper visited any other places of business, while in Steilacoom other than her saloons and beer halls.

During the Fall and Winter of 1879, the question concerning the county seat was of great interest of the citizens of Pierce County. The seat, which was currently at Steilacoom, now had a rival as the new town of Tacoma, which was the terminus of the Northern Pacific, wanted the seat. A petition was written, which they say, was susceptible of three different interpretations, and was signed by many voters, asking the Legislature to pass a bill allowing the residents of Pierce County to vote on the question of relocating the county seat. 

The bill that was drawn up, did not agree with the petition, and was amended in several aspects, before it passed the house, and was again amended in the Council, allowing only Pierce County taxpayers to vote on the question. The bill was entered by Hon, J. E. Gandy and Stephen Judson, before the Council Committee on Counties. Before this amendment was agreed to, the majority of the Council was in favor of allowing the seat to be moved by two-thirds or three-fifths vote. The question was then put before the people of the county and on November 2, 1880, the Pierce County seat was moved from Steilacoom to Tacoma.

On August 12, 1882, E. E. Hunt of Steilacoom, built a small steamer that was, 24 feet long, with an 8 foot beam and 3 feet in the hold. She was powered by a 3 horsepower engine. The propeller was made by Lister & Co. of New Tacoma. The hull was built at Steilacoom by the owner and could do 9 miles an hour. The boat carried the mail between Steilacoom, Artondale and McNeil Island.

On June 13, 1895, the Lighthouse Hotel, which was the chief hotel in town, caught fire causing $2,000 in damage. It was found that a defective flue was the cause for the fire. This was one of the first hotels built in the Territory. The Lighthouse Hotel was the scene of many notable gatherings in the 1860's, when there was a large military population near the town. The hotel was considered the top hotel on the Sound and it is said that Generals, Sheridan, McClellan, and Grant had stopped at the hotel while on duty. The fire destroyed the last part of the original structure.

Abigail Scott Duniway Visits Steilacoom

On June 21, 1880, Portland resident and women's rights activist Abigail Scott Duniway had booked a trip on the train to Tacoma. After visiting friends in the Old Town she departed on a steamer bound for Steilacoom. This is what she said; "It was great to meet old friends and form new acquaintances; and when at last, the little steamer Zephyr came in sight, and we repaired to the dock to embark for Steilacoom, we carried away the happy conviction that the women of Tacoma are wide awake on the suffrage question, and the best men of the town are their able allies."

"About fourteen miles further up the bay sits Steilacoom, formerly one of the busiest towns on the Sound, but now a quiet, staid and restful place, where peace, plenty and dull times have sat themselves down to patiently defy great expectations. The firm of McCaw & Rogers, general merchants, seems to carry the principle business of this place, where formerly there were a dozen or more prosperous competitors."

"In the well ordered home of Mr. Rogers we were so agreeably entertained that we scarcely took note of time. Mrs. Rogers drove over with us to the Insane Asylum one day, where we spent several hours among these unfortunates whose thoughts are combinations of fantastic things."

"The Asylum occupies the grounds used as a garrison. The site is healthy, pretty, and roomy, and the buildings are comfortable, commodious and clean. The patients were, many of them, out strawberry picking, but others could not be trusted away from the Asylum grounds; and quite enough of these were present to fill the heart with sadness. We did not ask, but could not help knowing that the majority of the male patients have dethroned their reason through various kinds of debauchery." 

"There is no sadder sight than that of the insane victim of a nameless crime. Some few are crazy on religion, and some on spiritualism. One happy fellow thinks himself an electric telegraph of universal power; and except that he believes that everything the human family says is telegraphed through him to Washington DC, where it is registered by the offices of the Government, which employed him as a detective, he is not insane." 

"This important person is the Asylum's head cook, and is perfectly trustworthy in his business. In the women's ward there is a patient who imagines herself a king's mother and another who thinks herself the world's ticket agent. A small percent of the women are insane over religion, but domestic infelicity, solitary life on picket duty in the lonely homesteads of backwoods husbands, overwork, inducing ill health, excessive maternity, the abuse of husbands, or of children after they are grown, are among the more prominent causes of aberrated reason." 

"But how helpless the women look; and how absurd is the assumption that women are supported and protected by men, when the horny hands and bowed shoulders of these maniacs prove how hopelessly and helplessly they had struggled for a livelihood for themselves and families through the long years prior to their incarceration here. Dr. Willard the Superintendent, and Major Alden take commendable interest in their humane work. but the two matrons, whose pay is meager as compared to theirs, have more constant responsibility than they. Equal rights before the law will one day bring to women equal pay for equal work."

"Our one lecture in the Masonic Hall was slimly attended, as was to be expected where there were so few people; but the hearers were respectful and orderly, and certainly atoned in intellect for their lack of numbers." 

"There is one man in Steilacoom who has unlimited faith in its future, and is running full tilt against New Tacoma. He parades with pardonable pride a bill, introduced in the House by Delegate Brents, which passed before the adjournment of Congress to its second reading, in which a corporation organized in Steilacoom is authorized to locate, construct and operate a railroad westward from Green River Station, on the Union Pacific, by way of Bear River, Soda Springs, Fort Hall, Baker City and the Blue Mountains to Walla Walla, thence across the Columbia basin, through Yakima Valley, over the Cowlitz pass, and along the north bank of the Nisqually River to the city of Steilacoom, the whole to be completed within six years from the date of the acceptance of the Act."

"Of course it is easy to make railroads on paper; but to our mind many a more improbable enterprise has been completed within the past six years than the "Occidental and Oriental Railroad." From Steilacoom we took a steamer on Saturday, our destination Olympia. The Mediterranean of the Pacific was boiling over like a defeated politician. Quite a number of passengers grew sea sick, and we... well, dinner was a trifle too troublesome." 

"The little steamer rocked like a miner's cradle and shivered like a spirit medium; and we confess that we were quite relieved when she passed a bend in the bay and encountered smoother waters. Five o'clock in the afternoon, and after an absence of over four years we were again a welcomed guest in the lovely home of Mrs. Sylvester, upon whose kindly face the unsullied beauty of peace and love were shilling with even brighter radiance than when we last had met her."

"On Sunday we attended the Blue Ribbon meeting, and tonight (Monday) are to speak again under the auspices of the same."

The End of a Dream

Steilacoom had reached its zenith during the mid 1870's, at about the same time the Northern Pacific bypassed the town and terminated at Commencement Bay. This is when Tacoma moved the Old Town to the railroad terminus, which became known as "New Tacoma." The nearest depot to Steilacoom was at Lake View, which is five and a half miles to the east. For the past quarter century, Steilacoom and Olympia were the principle towns on the Sound, and Steilacoom was at the end of the road from Portland. It was said that Steilacoom was destined to be the chief town on the "Mediterranean of the Pacific," but by the mid 1880's, Seattle and Tacoma were fast becoming the largest cities on Puget Sound.

The Occidental & Oriental Railroad, which was to be built to Steilacoom, never happened. To make matters worse, the main highway from Portland bypassed Steilacoom and now followed the railroad to Tacoma. The change in the traffic flow destroyed the dream of Steilacoom becoming the "great metropolis" of the Sound. Steilacoom was now destined to be a suburb of Tacoma.

This may not have been such a terrible thing as the town still retains the spirit of the past. You can sit on the bench in the park overlooking the harbor and imagine the sailing vessels anchored out in the bay and a Commercial street full of soldiers, miners, Indians, settlers and sailors.