History of Tumwater
By Curt Cunningham

The Deschutes River

The Deschutes river is one of the largest rivers in Thurston county, and begins its journey to Puget Sound in the Cascade mountains a few miles west of Alder lake near Elbe. The river is a part of the 170 square mile Deschutes watershed. The watershed has 52 river miles and 143 tributaries, and flows through; forests, wetlands, prairies, farmland, and residential communities. As the river descends down the mountain, it flows through ancient volcanic rock and then follows along the north side of the Northcraft Formation, through the town of Vail, before reaching Western Junction and Eaton prairie. Here the river begins to drain through a narrow valley and then cascades over 3 waterfalls and empties into Puget Sound at Budd's Inlet.

The Upper Deschutes river has a 27 foot waterfall located in the Deschutes Falls county park located about 14 miles southeast of the town of Rainier. The 155 acre park is a great place for nature lovers and photographers. There are rock monoliths, deep canyons, and plenty of lush green forests and plant life. The river flows through a 400 foot gorge and cascades down a half mile over small waterfalls that are visible to the park visitors. 

Before the river reaches Capitol lake at Budd's Inlet, the water flows over Tumwater falls and a series of smaller cascades. Tumwater falls is now part of the 15 acre Brewery park. There is a half mile trail which includes foot bridges over the river that give the visitor excellent views of the cascading waters and beautiful natural scenery. It is a wonderful place to visit and have a picnic. Tumwater Falls restaurant is another way to view the falls as the restaurant is high above the park and one side of the building faces the falls and gives the diner an excellent view while enjoying a good meal.

The Stehtsasamish

Before the Europeans arrived in the Pacific Northwest, the Stehtsasamish, who are a sub-tribe of the Nisqually, and who are also known as Steh-chass, had a permanent village below the falls. This village had existed for longer than anyone could remember. They lived in large houses made of cedar posts and planks that would be built near the shoreline. When the American emigrants arrived at Tumwater in 1845, there were 3 of these huts in the village with about 24 families living in them.

The Steh-chass territory was Budd's Inlet where they had small villages up and down the shores on both sides. During the warm summer months, canoes would be traveling back and forth through the inlet while hundreds of people would be going about their business. Tumwater falls was a sacred place for the Steh-chass and many ceremonies took place there. In the 1850's, the Steh-chass were led by a man named Sno-ho-dum-set. He was known as a man of peace, and was also a signer of the treaty at Medicine creek on December 24, 1854.

Another Steh-chass village was called, Bus-chut-hwud, which translates to “frequented by black bears,” and was located near the corner of 4th Avenue and Columbia Street in Olympia. Archeological sites that were excavated around Bus-chut-hwud showed evidence of fire-cracked rock, indications of a long established village. When Sylvester and Smith arrived in 1850, there were 20 or more huts along the shore that will become Columbia Street. The beaches would be lined with canoes.

The Steh-chass and the early settlers of Tumwater and Olympia co-existed together as the British had done since the 1820's. The Steh-chass and other tribes around the South Sound were the biggest customers of Tumwater's first store. But things would not stay harmonious for long, as the winds of change would begin in a few short years. In 1850, after the donation land act was passed, thousands of Americans who were looking for a new life in the west began to cross the Oregon Trail.

After the best land was taken in the Willamette valley, the newcomers began to travel up the Cowlitz river. North of the Columbia, the Indians were still living in their villages unsuspecting of what was yet to come. Many of these newcomers had no regard for the Indians claim to the land, or their way of life. The land act allowed settlers to claim unsurveyed property. In 1854, before any treaties were ratified, Governor Stevens declared Washington Territory open to settlement. This rapid encroachment, plus the unfair deal the Indians were forced to take, would be some of the main causes for the War of 1855. 

In 1854, there were only 20 Steh-chass living at Tumwater. When the war began in 1855, the South Sound tribes would be sent to the internment camps on Squaxin and Fox islands. After the war, the Steh-chass who once called Budd's Inlet their home, would never be allowed to return. This became the law on December 21, 1869, when Clanrick Crosby during the Tumwater Town Council meeting made a motion that the Steh-chass be permanently forced out of the town by May 1, 1870.

The Cowlitz Portage

The Cowlitz Trail terminated at the the mouth of the Deschutes river where travelers would then take canoes to all points on Puget Sound. The Deschutes river gets its name from the French-Canadian trappers of the Hudson's Bay Company (HBC) who arrived at the falls in 1827 and called the cascading stream, "Rivière des Chutes."

Beginning in 1824, HBC employee James McMillan traveled north from Fort Astoria, up the coastline to Grays Harbor. From there he traveled up the Chehalis and Black rivers, to Eld Inlet on Puget Sound. McMillan then explored the Sound in a rented canoe as far north as the Fraser river. On his return trip McMillan took the Cowlitz Trail to the landing at Toledo and then down the Cowlitz river to the Columbia. He made it back to Astoria alive and well.

After Fort Langley was established in 1827, the HBC wanted an inland supply route between Fort Vancouver on the Columbia river and the new fort on the Fraser river. Ocean going vessels were unreliable and too expensive to operate, and they were unable to be used during the winter months. The company would instead use canoes to the Cowlitz Landing and pack animals over the trail that led to Budd's Inlet on the Sound. This route would become known by the trappers as the "Cowlitz Portage." In 1833, Fort Nisqually was established and traffic began to travel up the Sound to the fort. Later pack trains would take the trail eastward from Tenino that led toward the fort. 

The First Americans

The first Americans to settle on Puget Sound was in the summer of 1845, when a party of settlers comprising of; Michael and Elizabeth Simmons, and children; George and Isabella Bush and children; David and Talitha Kindred, and one son; Gabriel and Keziah Jones, and children; William McAllister, his wife Charlotte and children, plus three bachelors; Samuel Crockett, Reuben Crowder, and Jessie Ferguson, all arrived at Budd's Inlet.

After crossing the plains and reaching the Dalles in the fall of 1844, they had to leave their wagons behind and load what they could into canoes and were taken down the river. After crossing the rapids of the Cascades, the party stopped at Washougal. Later they would travel to Fort Vancouver. Before the entire party traveled north, a few members took a reconnaissance expedition, but only made it as far as the Toutle river. In July they tried again, this time guided by Peter Bercier, who took them all the way to Puget Sound. Afterwards they traveled back to retrieve the rest of the party. While at Fort Vancouver, Elizabeth Simmons had given birth to a son, named Christopher.

When it was time for the families to begin the journey north, everything was packed into canoes to be transported to the Cowlitz Landing. Imagine being stuffed into a canoe like a sardine in a can, and then told to stay still for hours on end so you wouldn't turnover the canoe, while being taken upriver slower than the party members who were driving the animals up the trail, that ran along the river bank. Every time the canoe came upon a blockage in the river, everyone would have to unload the cargo, carry the stuff around the obstacle, and then reload it. All the overland settlers came this way until the 1860's, when the steamers began to ply the Cowlitz, and the stages began to use the Military Road.

From the Landing, the party had another 60 miles to go before they reached the Sound. They made crude sleds to hold their belongings and dragged them up the trail toward the sound. When they reached Tenino, the sleds had given out and new ones had to be built. It would take them 15 days to reach the Sound. Through the prairies, it was easy going, but through the forests was a different story. When they came to a downed tree, they had to either; clear it out of the away, cut through it with axes, make bridges over it, or go around it. Some of the bigger trees were up to 20 feet wide.

Not long after the newcomers arrived, Chief Leschi of the Nisqually, visited the group at the falls. George Bush, recalled how Chief Leschi brought urgently needed supplies on pack horses to help the settlers through those rough first days, he also taught them how to harvest the different types of seafood found in the mudflats during the low tide. "Leschi was a good friend as we ever had,” Bush had said. James McAllister, became close friends with Leschi, after he helped the McAllister family settle near his home at the mouth of the Nisqually river.

The settlers of Tumwater had to re-supply themselves by purchasing from the Puget Sound Agricultural Company's (PSAC) post at Fort Nisqually. The PSAC was the farming division of the HBC. The group was dependent on the PSAC until they were able to establish their own farms. Initially, the Hudson's Bay Company did not care for these "American squatters" as they were thought of by the British, but they quickly realized that these squatters were good for business. 

HBC leaders Dr. McLoughlin and James Douglas, knew these squatters were here to stay, and they were fully aware that they were powerless to do anything about it. The only thing they could have done was deny them supplies. Instead of turning them away, they gave the officers of the PSAC at Fort Nisqually, orders to furnish the Americans, with 200 bushels of wheat at .80 cents a bushel, 100 bushels of peas at $1.00 per bushel, 300 bushels of potatoes at .50 cents a bushel, and a dozen head of cattle at $12.00 each. George Bush's time spent working for the HBC was a contributing factor in obtaining the much needed supplies.

The Settlement is Established

Everyone from the group took claims within a radius of 6 miles of from each other; Simmons took a claim at Tumwater falls, McAllister claimed a place about 6 miles northeast of Simmons, and the others settled on the Bush prairie about 2.5 miles southeast of Tumwater. The first house was built on Kindred's claim at the west edge of Bush prairie. Simmons spent his first winter in a cabin near the lower falls of the Deschutes, and built his home at the upper falls the following summer. This new American settlement on Puget Sound was first called New Market, (The name, apparently was to be a swipe at the Hudson’s Bay Co.'s monopoly) but the name never stuck, and by 1853, Tumwater was the name used for the settlement.

The name Tumwater originates from the Chinook jargon word "Tum-chuck." The Chinook jargon was once the universal language spoken by the people of the Pacific Northwest from the late 1700's until the 1850's. The word "tum" means to fall or falling, and the word "chuck" translates to "water," comes from the Chinook word "Ti-tsuk." The Nootka word for water is "Chauk," and the Clatsop, say "Ti-chukw." Some jargon dictionaries list the word for waterfall as "Tum-wa'-ta." This was most likely an evolution of the word as the Steh-chass learned more English.

The first store was established in 1848, by Michael Simmons at the St Joseph mission. The store sold its meager wares to the Steh-chass. The store building had primitive character and had but a few items for sale. These were placed on a rough-hewn shelf and a tall table sided in with rough plank. The table was crude but "wonderfully" made. the stock consisted of sugar, coffee, molasses, flour, beans, and a few bolts of cheap calicoes and domestic fabric, plus some cheap but serviceable clothing, and beads and trinkets for the Steh-chass.

In the beginning, all of the traffic and communication between New Market (Tumwater) and Smithfield (Olympia) was by water, in a canoe. The first link between the settlements was on August 24, 1847, when a trail was cut out of the forest.

After a few years of establishing their farms, some of the settlers formed a lumber company. The following is a history of the first efforts to establish the lumber business on Puget Sound as told by Antonio Rabbeson on April, 28, 1886; "In the Spring of 1848 a company was formed at Tumwater, consisting of M. T. Simmons, George Bush, Jesse Ferguson, Mr. Carnafix, John Kindred, Col. B. F. Shaw, E. Sylvester, and A. B. Rabbeson, called the Puget Sound Lumber company."

"They purchased from the Hudson's Bay company a set of mill irons, then at Vancouver, which the latter company had shipped from England, with the intention of erecting a mill at some point upon the Columbia river, but they, believing it to be to their advantage, sold the equipment to us for the sum of $300, to be paid for in lumber delivered to the Fort Nisqually landing, at the rate of $16 per thousand feet."

"The mill was built in the fall and winter of 1848, at the lower falls in Tumwater, it was an old-fashioned up-and-down saw, run by a flutter wheel, and would cut from 1,200 to 1,500 feet in twelve hours. The mill was sold to Captain Clanrick Crosby in the fall of 1849. That year Nelson Barnes, Ira Ward and Smith Hays built a sawmill at the upper falls in Tumwater.

"I would say in this connection that I remember very vividly the trouble I had, to get room to move, on account of the Indians who flocked to the mill by the hundreds, to behold the wonders performed by the Boston man, who, by a saying a word, could apparently make the saw move up and down, or advance the log or recede it at will. I remember the second log that was sawed. When I went to put it upon the carriage, I requested the Indians either get out of the way or roll it upon the carriage themselves, and as they desired to make themselves useful, ten of them attempted it, but failed.

"When I picked up the "cant-dog" and turned the log without help, they were astonished at my remarkable strength, and when I proposed to pick one of them up and throw him from the mill to the other side of the river, he declined the experiment, having no doubt that I could do it, (they now know better, the power of the cant-dog). The first grist or flouring mill was built at Upper Tumwater falls in 1847 by Simmons & Kindred. The stones used were cut out of a granite rock found in Mud Bay." The Puget Sound Agricultural Company would bring their wheat down from Fort Nisqually to be ground into flour.

In 1849, there was a the trail between Tumwater and Fort Nisqually. From Tumwater the old trail is now known as the Yelm Highway. Just before the highway rounds the hill toward the Red Wind casino, the old route continued northeast to a crossing of the Nisqually river. From the Nisqually river, the road ran past Nisqually lake and then turned north to the fort. The first wagon road between Steilacoom, Lacey and Olympia would be built in 1858.

Seattle undertaker Edgar Ray Butterworth of the Seattle company, E. R. Butterworth & Sons, in 1893, told a story about his friend Captain Clanrick Crosby when he first arrived in Tumwater; In 1850 Captain Crosby and his wife Phoebe arrived at Tumwater and purchased Simmons' property. The purchase included a two-story house, a primitive sawmill with an upright saw, and a still more primitive grist mill. The price paid was $32,000. Of this sum $25,000 was paid in gold coin and the balance was paid off after one year. On December 15, 1850, Captain Crosby established a grocery store at Tumwater.

The crude grist mill was not capable of turning out either an immense quantity or a fine quality of flour. The hopper would hold about five bushels of wheat, and one of the men would go to the mill in the morning, fill the hopper, turn the water onto the small wheel, which was the motive power, and then go to the sawmill, where he would labor until noon. Returning after the noon hour to look again after his charge, he would find the industrious little mill had not been idle during his absence, but had converted the five bushels of wheat into a kind of chop. A hand sieve was now brought into service to take out the coarsest chaff, and the remainder was then put into sacks or barrels and was ready for market.

Again the hopper was charged, and during the night, was ground into the same kind of flour. While this was a slow operation it was not an unprofitable one, as the flour that was made commanded $50 per barrel. (In 1893 the average price was $4 a barrel.) In the meantime the sawmill would not be idle, but was turning out lumber, which, in its rough state (there were no planers there in those days), brought $12 per 1,000 feet ordinarily, but just alter the great fire in San Francisco, about 1853, there was a sudden demand for lumber, and the captain sold all the lumber in the yard at $50 per 1,000 feet, running his mill day and night to supply the demand at that figure. Money was plenty in those days, but the comforts of life were scarce and security was only purchased by eternal vigilance.

The Property Dispute

Sometime in 1851, a dispute occurred between Crosby and Simmons over the purchase of the property. There was even a lawsuit filed in Thurston county that year between Crosby and Simmons about a forcible entry. Even a resident of Olympia commented on the issue, and said that; "I recently witnessed a trial before Edmund Sylvester at Olympia in which Captain Crosby and Colonel Michael T. Simmons were parties, growing out of a question of title to or possession of the Tumwater claim. It originally was taken by Simmons in 1845, but purchased by Crosby In 1849. J. B. Chapman, Esq., of Steilacoom, was attorney for Crosby, Colonel Simmons being represented by Daniel R. Bigelow, Esq., of Massachusetts, who crossed the plains this last season and arrived in Olympia on the schooner Exact from Portland."

It appears that the dispute was still ongoing a year later, because on December 1, 1852, Elizabeth Simmons placed a notice in the newspaper warning and forbidding anyone from purchasing from Crosby the land situated on both sides and below the mouth of the Deschutes river. She was making a public notice of her claim to the undivided half of the property which included the sawmill and adjacent buildings. The dispute between Crosby and Simmons would be resolved sometime in the summer of 1853. There was a short paragraph in the Washington Standard on July 9, 1853 that said; the valuable property at New Market was no longer "ensnarled in vexatious chancery," and Captain Crosby was busy repairing the sawmill which he was to have ready in a short time and; "the Shutes river neighborhood will soon be alive with enterprise and bustle."

The 1850's

In 1851 Crosby sold some of his land to Ira Ward and Smith Hays who had just arrived from Portland. Ward and Hays together with Nelson Barnes of Bush prairie, wanted to build a sawmill near the falls. The sawmill was completed on September 5, 1852. After the mill was completed Ward boarded a ship bound for the east coast so he could purchase additional machinery for the mill, and to pay a visit to his parents and 2 children he had left with them. On February 22, 1853, Ira Ward married Jane Simpson on the East coast and together along with Ira's children set sail for the Puget Sound. After their arrival at Tumwater, Ira built a frame home that the couple lived in the rest of their lives. Ira Ward was a member of the first Territorial Legislature, and Ward Lake was named after him. Unfortunately the sawmill would burn down in 1905.

On January 7, 1854, brothers J. Williams and Charles E. Williams opened a new store in Tumwater near Ward and Hays sawmill. They had a desirable assortment of groceries designed to accommodate the farmers of Thurston county at prices equal to those at Olympia. In 1858, Charles would open a store at Olympia and offered express package service. Williams would operate the store for the next 10 years.

At the end of 1854, Tumwater had two sawmills and one grist mill at the upper falls now owned by Ward and Hays, that was in constant operation. There were about 15 residences, including buildings used for store rooms. The large boarding house was run by Mrs. Taylor, and Mr. Dunlap had an extensive assortment of groceries at his Sandwich Island store. Captain Crosby finished a large warehouse at the head of Budd's Inlet below the lower falls. Nelson Barnes, began operation of a grist mill at the lower falls next to Captain Crosby's warehouse. The mill ground flour equally as well as Ira Ward and Smith Hays' grist mill at the upper falls.

On November 28, 1856, Ward and Hays opened a wholesale warehouse and sold a wide variety of goods. The warehouse was located at Tumwater falls next to their mill. They said that small vessels could reach the vicinity of the warehouse on the high tide, and they could leave when the tide began to ebb.

The Crosby House

Around 1854 Nathaniel Crosby III, nephew of Clanrick Crosby, and who was also the grandfather of the famous entertainer Bing Crosby, purchased some land from uncle Clanrick to build a house for his new bride Cordelia Jane Smith, daughter of a prosperous farmer who lived on Chambers prairie. The house was completed in 1860. Their sons Frank and Harry were born in the house a few years before the family moved to Olympia. The house changed hands several times before being purchased in 1947 by the Daughters of the Pioneers of Washington. Those who contributed toward the purchase of the house was the Schmidt family, owners of the Olympia Brewery.

Today the Crosby House is listed on the Tumwater Register of Historic Places, the National Register, and the Washington State Register of Historic Places, and is known as the Crosby House Museum. The museum is located in the Tumwater Historical park at the mouth of the Deschutes river. The house is open Sundays, 1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m., April through October only.

The First Bridges

At the end of February 1853, a wagon road was completed between Tumwater and Olympia. The construction included a bridge over the Deschutes river between the falls, and near the grist mill, that will become known as the upper bridge. Now Tumwater and Olympia were linked by a good wagon road which was appreciated by the farming community located on the south side of the river, as well as being of the greatest importance to the traveling public. In 1915 this wooden bridge would be replaced with a concrete bridge, known today as the Boston bridge.

On July 22, 1859, construction began on a new suspension bridge across the Deschutes river about a quarter mile below the upper bridge. This new bridge was built entirely with private funds and cost $2,000. It crossed the river at the lower falls, above the Lincoln mill which was owned by Crosby & Barnes, and the tannery of Biles and Carter. The bridge was built by Crosby and Barnes almost entirely of their own funding, and they did not charge tolls to cross it.

Tumwater Tannery

On October 14, 1859, James Biles and his partner H. K. Carter started a tannery at Tumwater after purchasing some property from Captain Crosby. Before the business was established, Tumwater and Olympia residents had to order their leather goods from San Francisco. Leather or cash was given in exchange for fresh hides.

In 1862, James Biles became the sole owner of the tannery. The business was now conducted under the name of J. B. Biles & Co., a son of James was the principal member of the firm. The tannery was situated on the eastern bank of the inlet, about 200 yards from the lower falls, immediately opposite the sash and door factory of Samuel Cooper. It was approached by a road leading from the old stage highway at the top of the hill, and by one traversing the banks of the Deschutes from the upper bridge.

The tannery was supplied with all the essential requisites for conducting the business thoroughly in the manufacture of all ordinary grades of leather. The machinery was driven by an 8-horse power Kendall turbine wheel, under a 28-foot head of water, conveyed by a flume from top of the lower falls. This power was found to be ample for running the bark-mill, the fulling-mill and the rockers by which the leather was handled in the vats. Hemlock bark was used exclusively for tanning in this country, oak was not produced in sufficient quantities.

The bark was furnished to the tannery at $9 per cord. The quantity was practically unlimited. Hides cost .04 cents a pound green, and from .08 to .10 cents dry, which was about one-half the rates they commanded in 1875. The different varieties of sole, upper and harness leather were produced equal to the best that could be imported at the time, and at figures, ranging from .25 to .30 cents per pound. Belting of superior quality was supplied at the latter figure. In 1875, the firm was manufacturing lacing, which found a ready sale in the mills and machine shops on the Coast.

The tannery at Tumwater cost about $12,000. Its annual product was valued at about $8,000, and it employed, on an average, four men. The product could be doubled, if the demand justified it. The firm shipped surplus hides to Portland and Victoria. The leather trade in 1876 was considerably depressed, the prices being about 10%, lower than they were the previous year, but the exportation of leather and hides to Europe began to increase, and it was hoped that the rates would also advance. The average shipments from New York were 10,000 hides per week during the summer of 1876.

On March 20, 1863, Thurston county Sheriff R. W. Moxlie had a sheriffs sale and sold the tannery's entire stock of leather. For some unknown reason Biles had racked up a debt of $9,806.24 that was owed to William W. Miller and some other creditors. The company had its stock of Leather confiscated to satisfy the judgment against them. The firm would continue to do its business for many more years.

Ward and Mitchell's Mills

The foundation timbers of what is now known as the Upper Tumwater Mill was laid in 1852, by Ira Ward, Nelson Barnes and Smith Hays. It was a small structure with a single sash saw and capable of cutting from 2,000 to 3,000 feet of lumber per day, which was quite ample to supply the demand, that existed at that time. The lumber was first rafted to Olympia, and later the first railroad in Washington Territory was built, which ran between the mill and the wharf at the head of the Sound, a distance of about a quarter of a mile. For several years all the lumber was carried to tide-water this way.

On August 28, 1857, S. D. Reinhart leased Ward and Hays sawmill and then made some repairs. Reinhart advertised that he would furnish his customers with as good or better lumber than what was usually sold.

In 1868, William Mitchell and Samuel N. Cooper associated themselves with Ira Ward, and with the increased capital they brought in, helped the business to be expanded. The first improvement was a new frame building 55 X 110 feet that was immediately constructed. The improvements also included an edger and planing machine, which, with the sash-saw, increased the daily output to about 20,000 feet, when running "full time," 24 hours. The firm likewise leased the Lincoln Flour Mill, at the lower falls, and for several months, supplied the local demand for flour and feed.

They also established a general variety store in Olympia, on the corner of Main and Third streets, which for a time did a thriving business. The site, with improvements, at Tumwater, was valued at about $13,000, and the store and stock at Olympia at $12,000 more. In 1869, another sash and door factory, 40 X 80 feet, was built, adjoining the mill, which cost, including the machinery, about $6,000, increasing the aggregate amount invested in the business to upwards of $31,000.

Samuel Cooper soon afterwards disposed of his interest to his partners, retaining however, the lease of the Lincoln Mill. The sawmill and factory would stay under the management of Ward & Mitchell, who employed on an average, seven men year round. The mill was supplied with; a sash-saw, an edger which cut 12-inch "cants," cut-off saws, a slab saw, and a 24-inch Putnam planer. The factory had all the improved machinery that was usually found in such establishments, including lathes for turning wood and iron.

All styles of doors and windows were made, and they constantly kept in stock at the salesroom in Olympia, as well as every variety of lumber at the extension yards on Columbus and Fourth Streets. At these yards a customer would find a general assortment of hard-wood timber; oak, ash, alder and maple, a specialty which was peculiar to the yard. Hardwood lumber sold from .05 to .10 cents a foot. The machinery was driven by four Kendall turbine wheels, one of which was 80 horse power, and another 45 horse power motor, ran the machinery of the mill, and two of smaller capacity, which supplied power to the factory.

The head of water used for the water wheel was 11 feet. In 1875, the property owned by the firm, included the Excelsior grist-mill, and the upper and middle falls, embracing a tract of land across the stream 700 feet in length, with a fall of 40 feet. There was 290 acres of fine timberland lying contiguous to the mill site, 300 acres at the Walker claim, and 120 acres of timber at the Wellman claim. All this timber was situated in close proximity to the Deschutes, where the logs could be floated down to the mill at any stage of water.

The annual product of this mill was about 2,000,000 feet, all of which was used in the local trade. The prices ranged from $8 to $10 for rough lumber, and $20 to $25 for dressed lumber such as siding, flooring, etc. These figures indicated a slight decline from the quotations of the late 1860's, when competition was less and many new buildings were constructed under the stimulus created from the railroad expectations. The growth in 1875 was  slower, but of a better class of buildings, which denoting a sure and steady advancement of the community.

On April 25 1862, a notice was placed in the Washington Standard which said; the Barnes, Henness & Co. had thoroughly repaired and improved the the Upper Tumwater mill and it was now ready to grind all the wheat in the country. Farmers were requested to call before bringing in their wheat to; "see that some thing's can be done better than others."

Some Tumwater Mills

Printed in the Washington Standard on December 23, 1898, was an article about the Tumwater grist mills. The story was sent in by a reader who wanted to correct the Tacoma News on an article they printed about the history of the Tumwater mills. The article reads in part; 

"The Crosby mill, at the foot of the lower falls, was a five-story building equipped with up-to-date machinery at the time of its opening in 1861, the frame of which still stands. The mill was operated at a loss and closed after a short career of disaster. It was an unlucky venture from the beginning. The day it opened was made an occasion for rejoicing and quite a number of visitors were present to witness starting of the machinery. A daughter of Mr. Biles, of Tumwater, happened to step over a revolving pinion, by which her clothing was caught, and before the machinery could be stopped she was fearfully mangled and killed. This tragedy seemed to forebode the fate of the enterprise. It was never successful, always a money-loser, and involved its owners in an inextricable load of debt."

In the 1870s, George Gelbach purchased some property at the middle falls and established a grist mill known as the Red Mill. In 1890 the power company, purchased the property and continued to operate the mill. Power was supplied with direct waterpower, which had a first class roller-process machine.

Tumwater 1860's

On November 17, 1860, Williams and Jordan were running a furniture factory in Tumwater that was located near Ward and Hays mill on Main Street. They made; chairs, cabinets, tables, toilet tables, etc. They also made sashes, doors and blinds that were made to order. They would take marketable produce in lieu of cash.

In the fall of 1860, M. W. Witherell was operating a saddle and harness shop. he sold saddles, harnesses and trunks, and would trim carriages at reasonable prices. His shop was located on Main Street.

In 1861, the Tumwater House hosted the New Years and Valentine's parties. The Grand Valentine Ball was given on Thursday evening February 14, 1861. David Brant was the proprietor and charged $3.00 for admission. Forage was provided for the teams at moderate rates. It is unknown when this establishment first began operations or if it was also used as a hotel. But by December of 1864, the building formally known as the Tumwater House was being rented by F. M. Rhoades as his residence.

On December 3, 1864 at 3pm, the Tumwater House burned to the ground. When the fire was first discovered, it had become too large to be subdued, but by the superhuman exertions of the citizens of Tumwater, the fire was prevented from burning the adjoining structures. There was a house on the south side that stood no more than 3 or 4 feet from the burning building, but a strong breeze blowing to the north saved it from being consumed by the flames. The buildings on the other side were separated by an alley. Mr. Ganloff owned the house that was worth $1,000, and Rhoades lost all of his belongings.

On the night of January 11, 1865 at the warehouse of Swan & Smith which was located at Arcadia, about 7 miles east of Shelton, was broken into and robbed of goods valued at over $200 by an outlaw known as Scotta along with 5 accomplices. The thieves would be tracked to Tumwater. When Scotta was spotted, he took refuge in a rundown shack while several residents tried to arrest him, but he managed to escape. Some 10 or 12 shots were fired at him, with one shot being fired back. Nobody was hit and Scotta got away.

In 1869, William Horton purchased property from Captain Crosby and established the Olympia Water Company in Tumwater. He built the first water system in Tumwater and Olympia. In 1870 he purchased more land and built the Washington Water Pipe Manufacturing and Water Company at the lower Tumwater falls. His factory was constructed next to the old grist mill. Horton made wooden pipe, by hollowing out a log. They were connected with wire. Horton would lose the factory to foreclosure in 1882, and in 1884 he opened, the Puget Sound Pipe Works at Olympia. Sadly, William Horton would pass away in 1887.

On November 19, 1869, House Bill No. 102 was presented to the Washington Territorial Legislature for the incorporation of the town of Tumwater. The bill was approved on November 27, 1869.

At the beginning of 1870 a tourist wrote about what they saw when they visited Tumwater; "About one and a half miles south of Olympia is the romantic little village of Tumwater, so called from its handsome water-falls which are formed at the mouth of the Deschutes river, and which at the highest stage of the water give about 5,000 horsepower. The village contains flour, grist, saw mills and a water-pipe factory. The majority of the people being good mechanics and artisans."

The Lower Tumwater Bridge

In 1869, the Lower Tumwater bridge connected Tumwater with Olympia on a route that was shorter than the old 1853 road (Capitol Way) to the Upper Tumwater bridge (Boston bridge). The Lower Tumwater bridge was about 1,000 feet long and crossed over the mudflats just below the brewery. The south end of the bridge connected to Tumwater at the north end of the Historical park, and the north end of the bridge connected to the south end of Oregon Trail Road SW.

On January 31, 1869, a petition was in circulation for the purpose of raising funds for a new bridge at Tumwater. On February 13, 1869, the piles were being cut for the new Lower Tumwater bridge. The county had accepted the subscription list as adequate, and guaranteed it's completion. On April 24, 1869, a contract to construct a bridge over the mud flats from Tumwater to Olympia was let to Oliver Shead, and brothers George W. French, and J. S. French for the cost of $4,000. On June 25, 1869, the Lower Tumwater bridge was almost completed, and after the draw was finished, foot traffic was allowed to cross.

On July 3, 1869, arrangements were being made for the grading of the road leading to the north end of the Lower Tumwater bridge. Bids for the work ranged from $100 to $1,200. On July 17, 1869, the Lower Tumwater bridge was completed. Grading of the road leading to Olympia from the north end was postponed. Probably due to the wide discrepancy in the bids they received. The Standard said that; "this is not what the people have a right to expect from those having charge of the matter." They also said that the bridge appeared to be substantially built, and the draw swung around at right angles with the bridge instead of sliding aside as the Marshville and Olympia bridges did.

On April 29 1871, among the substantial improvements recently made at Tumwater, was the opening of the sash & door factory of Leonard, Crosby & Cooper, which was near the lower bridge, and convenient to tide water navigation. The factory was in full operation, turning out work equal to any on the East or West coast.

By spring of 1880 the Lower Tumwater bridge was beginning to fail. On March 5, 1880, the Standard said the condition of the Lower Tumwater bridge should receive some attention. All travel for the past month or more had been by the round-about way of the Upper bridge.

During May of 1880, Tumwater was in a blaze of excitement over the question to repair the Lower Tumwater bridge. Reports had said that a fair majority of property owners and businesses were in favor of having the Lower bridge overhauled. There was a small minority from the upper part of Tumwater who were opposed to any repairs to the bridge. Both parties appeared before the county board on May 7th to express their views on the matter. On May 8, 1880, the Standard said that; "now that so many of our friends in Tumwater are exercising themselves about repairing the Lower bridge, would it not bode well for our own citizens to encourage them by leading a helping hand in the way of a rousing field day? A little unity would accomplish wonders." On July 9, 1880, the repairs on the Lower Tumwater bridge were completed and the span was opened for traffic.

It only took 2 years for the bridge to fail again. On June 30, 1882, the Lower Tumwater bridge was considered unsafe for wagons and the crossing was closed until repairs could be made. On March 9, 1883, the citizens of Tumwater were giving plenty of attention to the Lower Tumwater bridge. There was a proposition to to abandon the lower crossing, and construct a substantial span over the middle falls, near Gilbach's mill. This was met with much opposition from the business interests nearer the tidewater. Their argument was that the shortest distance between 2 points was a straight line, and unless it could be shown that the bridge was a hindrance to commerce, it should be preserved. The proposition ended up being thrown out and the bridge would some day be repaired.

At the beginning of 1885, the Lower Tumwater bridge was still closed for traffic. On February 6, 1885, the County Commissioners finally authorized an appropriation to repair the Lower Tumwater bridge. On February 20, 1885, plans and specifications were being drawn up for the new bridge. The Standard had hoped that; "the distance between Olympia and its enterprising suburb would be shortened 50% by the end of summer."

Well it looks as though the repairs were completed by summer. Because on June 26, 1885, an accident happened on the road from Olympia leading downhill to the bridge. It appears that H. Springer and R. G. Esterly were descending the hill leading to the Lower Tumwater bridge in their buggy, when the horse shied and jumped the steep bank, while dragging the buggy with it. Springer was able to jump out before it went over the side, but Esterly fell with the horse and buggy a distance of 40 feet, but luckily he escaped with only a slight injury to his foot. The horse was uninjured, and the buggy wasn't damaged as much as it could have been.

On July 6, 1894, the Lower Tumwater bridge came near being consumed by fire. It appears that someone lit a cigarette and carelessly tossed a match into some material that caught the bridge on fire. The burning portion was cut away to save the rest of the bridge.

On May 29, 1896, the County Commissioners declared the Lower Tumwater bridge in an unsafe condition and had it closed. The Upper bridge had been condemned but was still in use. The commissioners called a meeting to discuss building a new bridge at the upper crossing, and the lower bridge would be repaired. On October 2 1896, work to repair the Lower Tumwater bridge was to begin as soon as the materials arrived.

The lower bridge was repaired by November of 1896 and was opened for traffic. Though the road from Olympia going down the hill to the north end of the bridge continued to be a problem. On November 13, 1896, the Standard said that the road leading from Main Street to Tumwater by way of the lower bridge was dangerous and practically impassible; "The road going down the hill to the bridge was cut up into miniature canyons that were said to be quite suggestive of the bed of the Colorado river, and were deep enough to overturn a carriage or loaded wagon. Every heavy rain made the hill more difficult to repair."

On February 26, 1897, the road across the lower bridge between Olympia and Tumwater was still open for traffic, though the road on the north hill was still rough for wagons.

During the fall of 1900, the city of Tumwater rebuilt 300 feet of the Lower Tumwater bridge.

On August 29, 1905, the County Commissioners approved plans for the building of a new lower bridge across the mudflats at Tumwater. The bridge had a 50 foot Howe truss across the channel that was raised 5 feet above the level of the old bridge. The grade at the south end was 2%.

On November 17, 1905, the tug Margaret C, Brown sank at the Lower Tumwater bridge with a load of bricks that was consigned to the brewery.

On May 3, 1910, H. S. Colter, manager of the Tacoma Motor Car company, made a trip to Olympia in a Model 17 Buick. As soon as he drove down 4th Avenue, he crossed over the Marshville bridge and climbed the West Side hill in high gear. It was the first car to do so in high gear. The hill had deep ruts on a 25% grade, which slowed the other vehicles. As Colter climbed the hill several more times, hundreds of Olympians came out to watch him. Many could not believe he could do it high gear with a car loaded with 5 passengers. Colter then drove over to the Lower Tumwater bridge and climbed the steep and winding grade up the north hill at 30 mph in high gear. This grade was especially hard for autos on account of the turns. Colter returned to Tacoma that evening averaging 16.25 miles per gallon. A few days later Colter said he sold 2 Buicks as a result of his performance in Olympia.

On June 21, 1912, the body that was found on Westside may have been a man named Winkle, who disappeared in 1905 after killing a man named Lamp on the Lower Tumwater bridge. Some of the articles found indicated the body had been lying there for 6 or 7 years.

The Lower Tumwater bridge remained open for traffic until sometime between 1927 and 1934. In 1946 you could still see a section of the old bridge out in the middle of the channel rotting away. The ruins of the bridge were removed in 1955 when construction began on the Olympia-Tumwater freeway.

Tumwater to Tenino

From 1872 until the Olympia-Tenino Short-line Railroad was completed in 1878, stage coaches ran on the Cowlitz Trail between Tenino and Olympia. The following is an account of the journey.

On October 1, 1875, Catherine Amanda Coburn wrote about her trip from Olympia to Portland for the New Northwest. The story begins when they arrived at the falls of the Deschutes; "We turned our steps toward Tumwater a walk of a mile,  perhaps more, it was very pleasant at all events and soon we were in the sound of the gleeful waters of the Deschutes, as they leap from point to point and ledge to ledge splashing on the rocks, and forming a succession of cataracts that gives a picturesque beauty to the place, and is utilized in turning great wheels that set in rapid motion voracious saws that devour with noisy gusto huge relics of the "forest primeval."

"A more quaint and comfortable spot for a summer's rest and recreation than this village of Tumwater could not well be conceived. Sanguine terminus-hunters several years ago here invested in real estate, upon which they built many "air castles" too fragile to withstand the corroding fingers of time; and over the place once peopled with a swarming population by the imaginations of enthusiasts, solitude and silence, broken only by the music of the falls, hold undisputed sway, while a weird beauty encompasses alike, nestling homes, sounding waters and silent streets."

"A delightful evening with friends of olden time was succeeded by a night of refreshing slumber, and this in turn by a morning of drizzling, lowering gloom. Nothing daunted, however, by the forbidding prospect, we quickly donned our apparel, tied a blue veil over our ears, muffed up well in cloak and shawl, and with skirts well in hand waited for the stage. We stood there proudly conscious that nothing was lacking to complete our outfit as a genuine pilgrim of the "strong-minded" literary type but the traditional blue cotton "umbrill," which unfortunately did not accompany our luggage."

"The stage arrived in due time, more crowded than ever was this Broadway omnibus, for there was not room for even one more passenger, so we retraced our steps, doffed our toggery, shook out our skirts and spent the day in reading, chatting and rest, in one of the sweetest homes in Christendom. On the morrow we were more fortunate in securing a seat, having, with the exception of one genial fellow passenger, the stage entirely to our self."

"Through dense timber, and over some of the beautiful 'mound prairies' of Washington Territory, beautiful even in their barren desolation, we rode, speculating now upon the opinions of Agassiz and others relative to the wonderful mounds that rose in uniform elevation on either hand upon the bosom of the prairie, again contemplating with admiration the industry and enthusiasm of those who graded and formed a road bed for a railway from Olympia to Tenino, and in due time the fifteen miles which divides the two places would be overcome, Tenino was reached, and we changed the bumping, thumping stagecoach for the slow-going train of the Northern Pacific, which was waiting to bear us to Kalama."

The 1880's

In the spring of 1885, Tumwater had 500 residents and consisted of; a Methodist church and good schools, 3 saw mills, 3 flouring mills, 2 sash and door factories and a tannery, all operated by Tumwater falls. There was also numerous well stocked general and specialty stores. The outgoing shipments were; grain, produce and the products of the above enumerated factories. Stages ran to Montesano for .10 cents per mile. The Tenino-Olympia Railroad, completed in 1878, connected Tumwater and Olympia to the Northern Pacific mainline at Tenino. There was also a Western Union and a Wells Fargo office, and the mail was delivered daily.

Joseph Brown was the proprietor of the new Tumwater House; George H. Bumtrager ran one of the grocery stores; Isaac Burlingame operated one of the sawmills; Samuel N. Cooper, was owner of the Tumwater Sash, Door and Blind Company; Charles F. Eastman was the blacksmith and postmaster; Reverend John Flinn was the Methodist minister; George Gelbach operated one of the flour mills; John Kiefer owned the saloon; Bennett E. Loomis was proprietor of a grocery and drug store; Luke R. and his brother James M. McMurry operated another grocery; Ann Wallace was owner of a variety store; and Ira Ward and his sons Charles and Frank operated the Ward flour and sawmill.

The Capital Brewery

In 1896 Leopold and Louis Schmidt constructed the Capital Brewery behind the old tannery in Tumwater. The buildings included a four-story brewhouse, a five-story cellar building, a one-story ice factory powered by the lower falls, and a bottling and keg plant. Brewing commenced in July of 1896.

The main building of the brewery was 93 feet long and 35 feet wide, and about 68 feet high. The establishment was modern in every particular and was supplied with all the latest appliances known to the brewer, and it was the purpose of the proprietor to furnish an article equal to or excelling any beer made upon the Sound. The entire plant cost between $60,000 and $75,000. 

The brewery utilized the streetcar tracks, and a spur was built from the trolley depot to the brewery, and the electric cars ran alongside the building. There was a grain elevator inside the brewery that lifted the grains to the top floor. The brewery took advantage of the splendid water power, and there was an ample supply of good water taken from the artesian springs, which made Olympia beer famous.

On October 9, 1896, it was said that the lovers of good beer were smacking their lips over the new output of the Capital Brewery at Tumwater. Old veterans pronounced it of excellent flavor and quite equal in all respects to the best imported article at the time. This was the first fruits of the 7 week old brewery. A beer connoisseur from Milwaukee was asked to sample the Tumwater beer. After drinking a glass leisurely, said: "You can't josh me; that beer was never made outside of Milwaukee." He was a man of exquisite taste and mature judgment, and was very adamant in his opinion.

On September 9, 1901, at the meeting of the Olympia City Council, a question came up for consideration, that would raise the bridges across the inlet so that boats could reach the brewery. The waterway from the Deschutes river to the Sound proper had been closed to navigation for many years, in fact, ever since the town was founded it has been obstructed by at least one bridge. In 1900, there were four bridges over the channel between Tumwater and Olympia. 

After the Capital Brewing Company built their large brewery at Tumwater, the company had been shipping its product to market by using the local streetcar company's tracks, but now the company wanted the use of the waterway. The city had issue with this proposal as the West Fourth Street bridge, that connects the city proper with the west side, crosses the channel in the heart of the city. The bridge had been often repaired, and at the time of the meeting, was undergoing extensive and costly improvements. 

The brewing company asked that a 40 foot span, elevated 8 feet above the grade, be placed into the West Fourth Street bridge so that small tugs could pass under it. The Council did not grant this request, claiming that the navigation from a legal standpoint was not involved. The Northern Pacific also had a bridge crossing the channel, including some private persons, the town of Tumwater, and Thurston county. If the brewing company was victorious, all these bridges would have had to be altered at a great expense.

The Olympia Light and Power Company

The Olympia Light and Power Company, was a waterwheel generated hydro-electric power plant organized in 1890, and brought the first electricity to Olympia and Tumwater. The electricity powered; residential and street lighting, and powered the trolley and factories. The powerhouse was located at the middle falls, which gave the waterwheel a head of 24 feet. The upper and lowers falls were not being utilized at the time. In the lower story of the powerhouse, there were; four 25-inch Victor turbine wheels with 500 horsepower that spun a long shaft by means of pulleys and belts. The shaft spun 7 dynamos on the floor above, and 2 alternators for incandescent or house lighting, with 3,000 bulb capacity.

There were 3 generators for streetlights capable of lighting 150 bulbs of 2,000 candlepower each, and 2 generators, furnishing 130 horsepower in direct current of 500 volts. There was also a 17 inch turbine which by direct waterpower ran a 100 barrel flour mill that was situated just above the power station. The plant only required 3 workers to run the operation night and day. The poles between Tumwater and Olympia were 65 feet high and spaced 100 feet apart in a straight line for 3 miles. Olympia and Tumwater enjoyed cheap electricity which dropped gas and kerosene lighting to a mere trickle.

The electric trolley line had branches 5 miles long on standard gauge tracks and connected Tumwater with Olympia and also Percival's wharf, and had connections to the Northern Pacific at Olympia. There were connections with the brewery and ice works. The electric company also owned the gas works, and was in the process of phasing out that business.

The 1890's

At the end of the 1800's, Tumwater was home to; several churches, a good public school, 2 saw mills, a flour mill, an ice factory, 2 sash and door factories, a tannery, and a brewery, as well as several general stores, shops, etc. Tumwater was now becoming a lively suburb of Olympia. The residents of the town could visit and take in the sights at the light and power plant, the ice factory, the mammoth brewery, and the new sawmills at the foot of Main street, that would repay the busiest person for a few hours' stroll during the fall of 1896. And then they could take a saunter through the park which by no means was time lost to anybody. The falls were now at their lowest stage, but they had not lost any of their olden-time interest to those olden-time visitors.

Some Tumwater news items of October 9, 1896; The ornery dog poisoner was making a tour of the town. Have you sampled the new beer? Pass the mug Mary. Rev. T. B. Ford will preach at the Methodist church. A large turnip weighing 38 pounds was on display at Chamber's market. Next Sunday at the Methodist church, a sermon on the subject of "food" will be given. The Thanksgiving turkey and the Christmas goose were in close consultation as to the coming of ominous events. 

There was something more than deserved sarcasm when a Tumwater lady thanked Providence for sending the rain to wash the tobacco stains off the sidewalks. There is too much talking on the street corners and too little reading of the Sound political lore of the day. People may talk themselves into a frenzy without either being convinced that the other is right. Let all post themselves by reading diligently the political tracts now being scattered throughout every town, city and hamlet, like autumn leaves in a cyclone.

The Power Company Fire

On Wednesday July 1, 1898 in the early morning, a destructive fire destroyed the Olympia Light and Power Co.'s trolley barn and rolling stock. The corporation was just getting back on its feet after the Panic of 1893 when this tragic event occurred. The origin of the fire at the barn began precisely at 3:15am Wednesday morning, and was a mystery on how it started. All the lights were turned off when the service was closed down at midnight. The oily nature of the wood beneath the track helped the fire spread rapidly consuming everything in its path.

It was an exceedingly still night, scarcely a breath of air stirring, and the hour one where everybody is supposed to be in bed and asleep, the fire had begun, and had time to get considerable headway before discovery, and when the alarm was sounded. The fire had progressed half the length of the building, apparently from the front end. In half an hour it was a mass of smoldering ruins. The efforts of the firemen were directed mainly towards the preservation of the neighboring property, but despite their efforts a small building belonging to Johnny Cook was consumed, and another building owned by Peter Cook was almost irreparably wrecked.

Besides the company's six cars that were consumed, there was a fine $1,200 lathe in the repair department, about 70 arc lamps and various other costly tools and equipment. A moderate estimate of the loss was $15,000, upon which there was partial insurance.

The flames had not yet been extinguished when Mr. Faulkner, the energetic Superintendent of the company began "doing business," (as little Oly would say) over the wire with Portland, Seattle and Tacoma, to secure rolling stock for the resumption of service over the road. "It is such energy as this which surmounts difficulties encountered in the battle of life as well as upon the field of carnage." Mr. Faulkner had encountered some  difficulty in locating replacement trolley cars of standard gauge. Since most cars at the time were narrow gauge.

Faulkner was able to secure a flat car and an old passenger car from Portland. They were brought up to Tumwater by the Northern Pacific. The flat car was used for the brewery service and it was pulled by horses. The passenger car was number "49," and was well worn. It was equipped with a Sprague motor and bore the inscription, "Portland Suburban Railway." It was far better than no car, and would soon be replaced by newer equipment.

Tumwater Park

The Deschutes gorge with its rugged basaltic rocks full of curious pot holes and dashing swirling falls and cascades is full of picturesque beauty. In 1896, Tumwater park was laid out with rustic benches and tables for picnic parties. Above the picnic area an extensive tract along the river embracing the stream and both branches, was securely fenced and stocked with deer and a band of elk. There was a bear pen with 3 young bears that were full of fun and frolic, and spent their time either bathing in their bath or climbing in their tree. There was also a pair of graceful swans that were imported from Victoria, that floated and glided peacefully on the river with all the ease, beauty and grace for which the species is so famed.

Who Did I Marry?

On November 10, 1905, Tumwater mayor, Thomas J. Miller filed suit for divorce from Mary Moore Miller, alias Howard, alias Leafgreen. He had just discovered that she was his legal wife, although he had not seen her for 20 years. Since that time Miller had married again and had a son, and the family was living on Bush prairie. The complaint filed in the Thurston County Superior Court revealed a most remarkable story, which, when finally substantiated, ended the claim of the woman to a half million dollar estate in St. Louis, left by the wealthy businessman Leclede J. Howard. 

The story begins with a torrid love affair by a young couple who were residing in Palmer, Ill. It was a warm summer evening in 1883 when Thomas J. Miller who was masquerading under the name of Charles H. Howard met a beautiful young woman by the name of Mary Moore. After an evening of fun and laughter, they got a room for the night. In the morning they decided to get married.

The complaint recited meretricious relations with a young girl, that brought about the secret marriage. After the compact was made, they ran down to Decatur, where they were secretly married. Later, when the infatuation was over. Miller told his young wife that his name was not Howard, but Miller, and that he had not married her under his true name, and that the marriage was void. As both seemed willing to separate, and both believed the secret marriage void, they decided a divorce was unnecessary. Around 1887, the woman, thinking the marriage was void, married again to David Dreenan at Taylorville, Ill, and one child was born to them.

Dreenan died some years later and she married William Leafgreen. In the meantime, Thomas J. Miller had assumed his correct name and came west, finally locating in Aberdeen. In 1890, Miller was married to Mattie K. Stewart at Aberdeen, and they had a child who was born in 1895. Since coming to Olympia, Miller had served a term in the Legislature, and held for two years a position as Secretary of the Board of State Land Commissioners under Robert Bridges. When Miller got the call about his mystery wife, he was unsure what they were talking about, and had to ask the person at the other end of the line, a second time; "Who did I marry?" At the time of the call, Miller was conducting a cigar manufacturing establishment, and was still living in Tumwater.

On April 5, 1903, Laclede J. Howard died at St. Louis, MO. This is when Mary Howard-Dreenan-Leafgreen concocted a plan to make a claim to Howard's entire estate, saying she was his legal wife, and recited a story of the marriage to Charlie Howard, at Decatur, but said it was Leclede Howard instead. She alleged that she had met Howard in St. Louis a few years before his death and he had admitted that the secret marriage in Decatur was genuine.

Believing that Leclede Howard had never married the woman, his legal heirs began to ferret out the truth. Through some means not made public, they established the identity of "Charlie Howard" and found that he, was not Leclede, but Thomas J. Miller, and they were able to locate him a couple of thousand miles away. Miller was a leading and highly respected citizen of the community.

Mary laughed at the claims of Tumwater Mayor. She continued to press her suit against the estate of Leclede Howard on the grounds that she was his faithful widow, and ridiculed the assertion of Mayor Miller that he was the "Charlie Howard" to whom she had married secretly in Decatur, Ill. back in 1883. She said she could prove the marriage in court that it was in fact the St. Louis manufacturer who died on April 15, 1902, as the "Howard" that she was married to.

She said she could not understand the motive of the Tumwater mayor; "I have never heard of this man Miller," declared Mrs. Leafgreen. "His story is false, wildly false. The mayor of Tumwater sounds like a comic opera name. I don't know who the man is, but I'd like to have him come to St. Louis and meet my Christian county friends. They will debunk him as an imposter. I cannot understand it at all. The mayor's action is a mystery to me. I have an idea that this man has been found by other parties to the case, and I believe he will never face the people who have known Mr. Howard and myself before we were married."

Thomas Miller at once consented to right the wrong as nearly as he could by asking for a divorce from the woman he had unwittingly legally married. With the establishment of his identity as Charlie Howard, and his marriage to the woman who was trying to claim the Missouri Howard estate, her claim to the latter, did of course, end.

The Simmons' Monument

On July 12, 1916, over 600 pioneers and their families joined at Tumwater to honor the memory of the first American settlers to Puget Sound. The gathering was for a ceremony that unveiled a monument to those early pioneers. The monument is a rough-hewn granite boulder ten feet high, which bears on a bronze plate the names of Colonel Simmons' party of 32. It stands next to the Deschutes river on the spot where he made his camp in 1845.

The unveiling ceremony was performed by Bertha Simmons-Farison, Mari Bush and Christopher C. Simmons, direct descendants of Michael Simmons and George Bush. The unveiling was followed by a program of notable speakers, including; Governor Lister, Justice O. G. Ellis, George H. Hlmes, secretary of the Oregon State Pioneer Society; Edmund S. Meany, president, and W. P Bonney, secretary of the Washington State Pioneer Society; address of welcome by General Hazard Stevens, president of the Thurston County Pioneer and Historical Society.

The address on behalf of donors of the monument was given by Peter Schmidt and by Mayor C. S. Lee, of Tumwater. P. M. Troy presided as chairman of the monument committee. P. D. Moore, who delivered the invocation, was the oldest man among the pioneers at 91 years old. Jane Parker was the oldest pioneer among the women present. Sons and daughters of Colonel Simmons in attendance were; Christopher C. Simmons, Thurston county; George Simmons, San Francisco; Benjamin Simmons, Seattle; F. Marion Simmons, Puyallup; Susie Simmons-Moore, Okanogan, and Mary Simmons-Holmes Worcester, MA. Among the notable native-born citizens present was Edwin Eells, who was born near Spokane in 1841. 

A characteristic pioneer dinner, garnished with clam chowder furnished by the Thurston County pioneers, was served on the grounds.

The Oregon Trail Marker

On August 19, 1916, Hazrard Stevens, son of Territorial Governor Isaac Stevens opened the patriotic exercises held that afternoon in celebration of the placing of the first Oregon Trail marker. About 400 people attended the ceremony, that was put on by the Daughters of the American Revolution. Stevens introduced Mrs. J. S. McKee as chairperson of the day. Mrs. William Cumming Story, national president of the D. A. R., spoke on the need of preparedness.

Jennie Ellis, who was chairperson of the old Oregon Trail committee of Washington, presented the marker to the state regent of the D. A. R. and to the state president of the S. A. R., Ellis then said; "This marker, placed at Tumwater, is the culmination of about two years' work by the committee in studying state history to accurately locate the old road between Puget Sound and Oregon, in investigating plans of marking the way and securing satisfactory design, materials and construction. The entire plan in detail was endorsed by both societies and your committee have faithfully end with pleasure carried it to completion.

"The idea of marking the Oregon trail as a patriotic work to be undertaken was first officially advocated by the Sons of the American Revolution in the annual address of the president of the Washington State society, Overton
Gentry Ellis, in 1908." 'The next official recognition of the Oregon trail was the placing of a monument by the Sacajawea chapter. D. A. R. to mark the end of the Oregon trail on the site of the old blockhouse formally in Olympia, now the Capital park. Mrs. C. J. Lord was the originator of the project."

"Mrs. Henry McCleary, state regent of the Washington society of D. A. R.. appointed the old Oregon trail committee which formally organized in January, 1914, and inaugurated the work under the leadership of Mrs. McCleary, who made the work the paramount feature of her administration, advocating it in her talks to the chapters of the society and in her address at the annual meeting of the S. A. R. on February 22, 1913.

"During the year of 1914 the Oregon trail committee of the S. A. R. was appointed. Since that time the two societles have cooperated in the work most cordially. The committee was greatly indebted to George H. Himes, secretary of the Oregon State Historical society, who came to the state of Washington in 1853 and is an acknowledged authority on northwest history, Mr. Himes met with the committee members and suggested the plan or placing markers at intervals near places that were prominent during the early days. He conferred with the committee and the Washington state highway department in establishing the identity of the present Pacific highway with the Old Oregon trail."

The Olympia-Tumwater Freeway

Before the 1950's, the word freeway was not yet associated with roads and cars. The first four lane "limited access highways" as they were technically called, were first known as expressways. In 1956, the word expressway was being phased out for the new word freeway. W. C. Williams an Oregon highway engineer said in 1956, that it was a fitting name. 

In 1954, the expressway between Centralia and Trosper Road, Exit 102 had been completed. Cars would turn off the new expressway and travel east on Trosper Road for a few hundred feet to reconnect to the 1938 Pacific Highway, and continue through the towns of Tumwater, Olympia and Lacey.

The terrain through the Olympia-Tumwater area is not very accommodating to the highway engineer. There was plenty of natural obstacles as well as the man-made ones. In routing the new freeway through Tumwater and Olympia, the State Highway Department decided to build the road right through the middle of Tumwater and across Capitol lake. Before construction could begin, about a hundred property owners received notices that a freeway was coming through, and their property would need to be condemned. These property owners who had their buildings demolished were all located in the old historical area of the town that was down by the river. The freeway effectively split the city in half.

Construction began on the freeway between Tumwater (Exit 102) and Lacey (Exit 109) in 1955. It took 4 years to complete the project. The new freeway opened on December 12, 1958. The following is from the souvenir pamphlet published by the Washington State Highway Commission in 1958 for the dedication of the Olympia-Tumwater Freeway;

"Planning on the freeway got underway in 1948 when traffic studies of the area were made. The first contract for actual construction was awarded on March 2, 1955 for building the Linwood Avenue overcrossing in Tumwater. About four years were involved in its construction. Federal and state funds were used to finance the brand new facility."

"The Olympia-Tumwater freeway, about 6.5 miles long is a fully controlled limited access highway. Entrances and exits to and from the roadway are possible only from designated points. Entrances to and from the freeway into both cities are made easy by interchanges provided at convenient intervals. They will allow the 3,600 vehicles coming from the south each day and the 2,200 vehicles coming from the west and the 5,000 vehicles coming from the east easy access to the business districts of both cities."

"One of the striking features of this brand new facility is the view of Washington's beautiful and distinctive Capital group as the motorist approaches the area. Few scenes can rival that one. It carries traffic on U. S. Highway 99 and on U. S. Highway 410 coming from the coastal beaches and the Olympic Peninsula. There are four lanes with the opposing two lanes of traffic separated by a wide median strip. There are 25 structures over the length of the freeway. The total cost of the project was almost $11 million."

After the new freeway was completed in 1958, Tumwater’s business district began to shift toward Trosper Road, near the interchange. In 1961, the Southgate Shopping Center was constructed. 

The only remaining portion of the old town of Tumwater is a small block on the west side of the Custer Way bridge, and the Falls Terrace restaurant on the east side of the freeway next to the river, which overlooks Brewery park and the falls. The restaurant was the site of Eastman's blacksmith shop.